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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Water Pump
Replacement

Difficulty Level: 4
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

     This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.  The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details. 

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Figure 11

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Figure 12
 

Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order!

      BMW cooling systems have been known for being troublesome for quite some time.  One of the principle areas of failure are the thermostat and water pump.  Some of the old style water pumps had a plastic impeller that has a tendency to become brittle and break off after many years of service.  BMW has replaced the plastic impeller in recent years with a metal one.  If you know that you have a plastic impeller in your car, then you should replace it as soon as possible.  Overheating problems are common on these cars, and if your engine overheats, you may find yourself having to replace your head gasket, which is not cheap.

     Begin the process by gaining access to your water pump.  This requires the removal of the fan and belts, as well as the removal of all coolant from the system.  See the following technical articles for instructions on how to get to this point:

     With all of your equipment removed, the front of your engine should resemble Figure 1.  Remove the fan pulley from the water pump - it is held on with four small nuts.  Your water pump should now resemble Figure 2.  Loosen the four nuts that hold the water pump to the engine block.  Then, using a rubber mallet, softly tap on the side of the water pump (Figure 3).  It should separate from the block after a few taps with the rubber mallet (Figure 4).  Once the water pump is loose, you should be able to pull it out of the engine block.

     Figure 5 shows a brand new water pump with the metal impeller.  Figure 6, Figure 7, and Figure 8 show the differences between the plastic one and the metal one.  There is no functional difference - they will both pump the same amount of coolant through the system.

     With the pump removed, check the inside bore where the water pump fits for debris or corrosion (Figure 9).  With a wire brush, remove any corrosion or debris that may have built up there (Figure 10).  Install the new water pump using a new o-ring.  Place a little bit of white lithium grease around the o-ring to ensure that you have a good seal, and to ease installation of the pump into the engine block (Figure 11).  Install the new pump and tighten down the four bolts that attach it to the block.  Torque them to 8 ft-lbs - no tighter.

     Figure 12 shows your new water pump installed.  Reattach the fan pulley, the fan, and all of your belts.  Refill and bleed the system, and you should be good to go!  While replacing your water pump, it's also a good time to replace your thermostat, while you're in there.

     Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all.  If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Comments and Suggestions:
baynard james Comments: My '96 325IS overheated because the radiator supply hose got shaved down by the fan and my coolant ran dry. I replaced the hose and refilled with plain water because I was nowhere near a service station and could't get coolant. About 10 or so miles down the road, it overheated again. There was a leak at the reservoir, but I tightened the hose clamp and it seems to have stopped. However, I keep getting a code to check the coolant and there is a hissing sound coming from somewhere below the intake manifold toward the rear of the engine. There doesn't seem to be oil in my coolant and no milky oil. Any ideas?
July 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: COuld be a heater hose or coolant pipe leaking. I would pressure test the cooling system. You will be able to locate the leak once you put the system under pressure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
CM Comments: Hello Pelican,

I have 2010 BMW 335XI and is been replaced all 3 pumps, Oil pump, Fuel Pump and Water Pump. Now, I have Cylinder cover gasket seal leak and I need to know if any of those pump has been replaced has anything to do with my valve gasket leak.
May 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would think not. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Douglas1137 Comments: Hi. I have a 98 528i e39 m52 & I am about to replace the water pump & pulley. I have removed already after reading this article but I have only 3 water pump bolt studs coming out of engine block for my 3 hex head nuts that hold the pump on. I do have a single hex bolt that fits into the missing stud hole. Is this normal or possibly from prior owner repair that lost the other stud. Bottom line is it was not leaking before I removed it but I wanted to check here before I place order for all parts needed.
Another ? Is my radiator is not held in place very well at all- way too much instability & moment when in place. Looks like prior work bent the transmission cooling coils right as they enter the radiator& are obstructing radiator from "seating" properly. I have tied the coil with wire to pull them back towards the front but something else missing to support radiator that is too sloppy. Any suggestion where to look for exactly how the radiator is properly fastened in?
Thanks for your help & vast knowledge base!
May 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: For the radiator, remove it and check if the rubber mounts are missing or damaged. You may have broken parts.

Someone may have replaced a stud with a bolt. You can install a new stud. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Sam Comments: Hey pelican,
I'm replacing the water pump on my 1987 325e, a spring came out with the old one , I need to know how to install it correctly with the new one?
May 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share a photo of the parts in question? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
s sahota Comments: hi i have a e46 m43 318i yesterday i have change headgasket because of overheating after changing the car is still over heat radiater has been changed even i remove thermostat put radiator fan direct i findwater is not circulating proprly what should i do thamks
May 4, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the water pump new? There could be something blocking a coolant passage. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rinzer Comments: Hi Pelican! I want to repeat what so many others have said and thank you for these articles!
Recently I bought a 96 328i that needs the thermostat and water pump replaced. I managed to do so, but ran into two issues:
1- when torquing the nuts on the water pump itself, one of the bolts/studs actually sheared off. I had a torque wrench set to 8lbs per this article. On your scale of 1-10, how bad a problem did that cause me and how can I fix it?
2- when replacing the belt I was using a t45 star tool on a ratchet, and the tensioner pulley bolt stripped out. I noticed you have the part listed as unavailable- where can I find a replacement, and was I using the right tool?
again, THANK YOU for all the help!!
April 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The tensioner tool size may vary, if it has been changed in the past. You will have to see if something larger or smaller fits.

The broken stud will have to be drilled out, then removed with an extractor. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mando Comments: I have a 745 I notice that I have to add water every week or so checked for a leak could not found any what could it be is a 2004 model
April 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be an internal engine leak. I would pressure test the cooling system. If you do not find an external leak, it could be a head gasket. Be sure to check for a leak down the transmission bell housing area, this would indicate a faulty engine valley coolant pipe. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
locobrown Comments: I have a 1996 BMW 318is M44. I have noticed where the two catalytic converters connect each pipe has its own catalytic converter, those two pipes have a union that connect to each other, from that union water droplets seep from it. Why can that be? Can it be condensation? It is not coolant green but clear like water. Can it be the water pump? My car doesnt over heat it has 238K and i have never changed it. Occasionally i can hear it clunking from the center of the engine bay. I haven't removed the belt to see how loose it can be.
April 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Condensation is normal. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tempo777 Comments: If I am just trying to replace my water pump pulley and NOT the pump, do I need to bleed the system even if I don't removed the water pump? Thank you in advance.
March 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, if you do not open the cooling system, you do not have to bleed it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
page Comments: My 318i m40 fail to pump up oil to the tapped and into oil filter i've tried to change oil pump but still failed
February 9, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: HAve to checked if the oil galleys are free from blockage? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Fswiss1911 Comments: hi I have a 2000 328i and in an effort to remove the ever dreded water pump my water pump pulley broke in half and all four bolts were either bent or broken will this create complications and how deep of trouble am I in?
January 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you are replacing the pump, the pulley and bolts can be replaced at the same time. If bolts in the timing case have failed, you will have to drill then out and retap the holes.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
David Comments: Its the housing that is leaking and not the water pump, is there a way I can plug it or do I have to change the housing and is it possible to change it?
January 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You cannot plug it. You will have to replace or repair the leak. I would have to see what is leaking to offer detailed advice. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
David Comments: Hi there, names David and I have a beautiful 03 530i, but recently my car has been leaking water from behind the water pump housing, is there anything I can do to plug it or can I change the housing itself
January 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the water pump itself leaking or the engine housing? I would suggest pressure testing it and pinpointing the leak. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
TM3107 Comments: Hi there - I have a 318 and its drinking a coolant at a very high rate. The temp gauge moves to middle at idle and drops to 11 o'clock on drive. At 70mph UK I get 80 miles before the low coolant light comes on. Locally especially stop start the coolant disappears quicker. The car shows no obvious signs of over heating, the heat from the vents is warmish, there's no leaks, no mixing of coolant and oil, I've replaced the fan switch - apparently it wasn't working - any kind of diagnosis/advice would really help
January 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If there are no external leaks, it could be the headgasket or an oil cooler. I would pressure test the cooling system. If you cannot find a leak, perform a cylinder leak test to see if pressure bleeds off into the cooling system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Richk7 Comments: 96 318i
Heat doesn't work at all unless RPMs are held above 3K. Engine starts creeping towards red while sitting idle for too long unless I increase RPMs. Sounds like water pump, right? Takes a bit to hear up initially, as well, so thinking the thermostat might need a replace, too.
January 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does sound like a faulty water pump or restricted heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Al Comments: i have a 2008 BMW 328xi coupe. yesterday my car started decelerating, lights come on the dash for fluid and thermostat, and engine starts smoking. mechanic says waterpump and thermostat. Quoted parts $800 for waterpump and $200 for thermostat. Does that seem accurate? I'm seeing $400 waterpumps for the same make/model online. Then plus 5 hours of labor
January 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not sure of labor rates in your area or what brand of parts the shop is using. Your best bet is to call around to a few shops for estimates. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
pud Comments: 1996 e36 4cylinder is over heating very quickly &the oil is ok coolant is boil through the rad cap
January 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a faulty head gasket. I would check the cooling system for combustion gas. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jonathan Comments: Sorry I forgot, I have a 2008 535i twin turbo, what is the process to do this job, did they need to drain the coolant sistem? Thank u very much!
December 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See this tech article:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/WATER-Coolant_Pump_Replacement/WATER-Coolant_Pump_Replacement.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
jonathan Comments: Hi,I recently replace my oil housing gaskets at independent bimmer shop, but now I have an issue with my water pump cause' when I drive I got engine overheat message, is the oil h.g related with that? Please thanks
December 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The coolant could be low. Check to see it if full. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jz Comments: Hi I have e46 if I start the car the rafes don't go up until I drive for a 5 minuts•
December 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a fault in the coolant temp sensor.

I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
ben Comments: having trouble with my 97 528i bmw overheating ! already replace thermostat water pump and flushed the radiator still having the same problem !
December 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Make sure the cooling fan is going on and at the correct temperature (about 95°C or 195°F). Also consider that the head gasket may be faulty and causing combustion gases to escape into the cooling system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
FOOLISH 1 Comments: what if its not the water pump but water is still leaking badly from a 2000 BMW 323I
December 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are coolant hoses and gaskets in the engine compartment and under the dashboard. Look for leaks. If you can't find it you need to pressurize the cooling system and keep sleuthing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
raulbmw Comments: I already replaced the radiator and thermostat and fan switch. However, the cooling fan sounds really loud. Any suggestions?
November 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Which fan sounds loud the auxiliary fan or the mechanical fan? Maybe the clutch on the mechanical fan has locked up. Try replacing it. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Carolyn Comments: Hey guys I was in the process of replacing a broken water pump on my bmw 323i 2000 and accidentally broke some important bolts/screws? on the water pump housing by over tightening. sadly I did not see this helpful guide until after I did this See Picture. I have determined that it is 6mm screw/bolt but I don't know how to remove this housing and replace these pieces. If you have any information on how to do this or the specific screw/bolts that would be helpful!
November 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Use visegrips to remove the studs from the engine. They are removable and should come right out. Then replace them with new. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right stud.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
clunk Comments: Hi ive got a e36 323i convertible auto has been losing water and temp gage goin into the red every couple of days so put a new rad on and new rad cap and bled the system when the engine is on tick over no heat comes out of the vents but when driving there's heat could this be the head gasket ?
November 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could very well be the head gaskets. I would pressure test the cooling system. If it does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks I would suspect a head gasket. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
keegan Comments: Hi buy a 96 bmw 528i and its overheating , the gage goes up after 10 minutes when engine turns on. The oil service light is on in the car and I can see oil driping around the head.when I pull off the oil cap and looking in I can see a strong milky look. Do u thing the head got damage as well as the gasket needed are so. Even though the car was park for over 5 months Iwas wondering if thats y it has a rusty milky look
October 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a bad head gasket. The only way to be sure if the head is ok or not is to remove it have it tested. There could be a crack that will not show up without a pressure test. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mazdaracer Comments: 91 bmw 318is when my car reach the normal temperature 1/2 I saw that when I'm in traffic my temperature going up between 1/2 and 3/4 but as soon start running drop it to 1/2 again I already replace the water pump 2 times, the thermostat 2times too, the radiator I replace it like 1 year ago, cooler fluid from the bmw dealer, I bleed the radiator and I try with electric fan because I took it was my fan clutch and does the same so I put my fan clutch back again, anything that I'm missing, tanks for you opinion
October 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I sounds like an air flow problem, check the fan clutch, fan, and electric fan, also check to make sure the fins in the rad and the condenser are clear and not plugged.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
2000 323I AZ Comments: I have a 2000 323I . My replaced the radiator after it cracked. The car kept getting hot after I bled the system time and time again with no effect on the overheating. I noticed that bottom hose was not getting hot so I replaced the Thermostat and now the car will not start. What could be wrong please someone tell me.
October 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: First check that no air is trapped in the cooling system. If not, you could have a faulty head gasket. Pressure test your cooling system, if the system will not hold pressure and has no external leaks the head gasket could have failed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Twoface Comments: Hi. I have a 1998 bmw 318i with the 1.9l engine. I recently replaced the head gasket and seem to be having a problem getting it in time. I need to know the steps and cannot find any page with all the steps. i got it to run but it misfires then dies. all vacuum lines are connected in the right place. so that shouldnt be an issue. please help.
September 29, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: THis is a long procedure and depending on your year you may have single VANOS so invest in a repair manual from Pelican and also try looking for these tech articles

BMW Camshaft
Removal & Installation
Wayne R. Dempsey

BMW Camshaft Timing
and Vanos Unit Installation
Wayne R. Dempsey

- Kerry at Pelican Parts
 
Goggles Pisano Comments: In the midst of installing a new water pump, in my wife's 1992 325i, I applied what I thought was the correct torque, 17ft/lbs according to the Bentley manual, to two of the nuts. This resulted in the second "bolt" not sure what the proper term is, shearing off!

Now what do I do????
August 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Well I would start by taking the water pump out and trying to grab the sheared off bolt with a vicegrip or something. You may have to drill and either use EZ outs to remove the bolt or just retap new threads - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
DBird Comments: 2000 323ci starts running hot after idling 15 minutes. Once I get going, its fine especially when I run the car's heater -that brings the temp back to normal. Dealership said it was the thermostat/water pump and cooling fan. But the thermostat/water pump were already replaced 14 months ago. What are the chances of them going south in only 14 months? Anyone?
July 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Their probably okay. You either need to bleed the system some more, check the cooling fan clutch which may run the fan too slow at idle or the electric cooling fan is not working. Once you start driving the airflow is what is cooling off you engine. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Shaun Comments: my water flange is broken and my BMW 528i 97 won't start it's been workin before but since the water flange broke it been down ever since
What can I do
July 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't know what you mean by "water flange" but could it be dripping on your crank sensor at the crank pulley? - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
od Comments: My comment is about bmw 525i 1989 after overhitting it refuse to start smelling like burning something since then didnot even swing the is click sound when i attempt to start I thought is a bettery flat but I suspect the is no combussion and i saw smoke came from the exhost linked to the block that was strainge pls help out on this one
July 8, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the engine does not crank when you turn the key then you probably have a bad starter or ignitions switch. If it does crank then you probably have a jumped timing chain from over revving it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ender Comments: Thank you so much! It seems like my a pumps in edmonton/a have a lot more trouble than the ones near calgary, and they need more work. This will help out a lot!
January 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bonobo Comments: In my 318 m40 engine i also ended up snapping away the to pieces of flange when attempting the screw method. Tried hitting it with a rubber mallet with no luck. Eventually I pulled out the hard hammer and started hitting the shit out of it. -lucky I had the cast iron block.
Then realized if I hit the structural fins of the water pump I could spin it out. Then waala. The cnt popped out with then help of a pry bar and the hammer.

ALL YOU NEED IS A HAMMER AND PRY BAR :O
November 11, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You'll find that advice will not help you everywhere in life - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Randy the shade tree man Comments: My daughter has a 1997 Z3 6 cylinder and I just removed the water pump on hers using two 6M bolts to push it off in the holes provided. I used PB Blaster in those holes first to make sure they were free of rust and debris that might cause the bolts to not bottom out simultaneously. After screwing the bolts in until the made contact I began turning them very slowly first one then the other only about ten clicks on my ratchet drive on each to insure they both pulled out evenly. I also occasionally tapped on the fan mount with a hammer and the water pump came off very easily, it was quite corroded and had 200,000 miles on it. It was leaking anti-freez and making a fairly loud noise from the seal and bearings being out. I believe the key to keep from breaking the threaded tabs off is to go very slowly being careful to keep the screws at equal pressure. I hope that makes sense and helps someone.
November 9, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes that is very good advice - Nick at Pelican Parts  
David Comments: I found the pump on my 318i to be well and truly seized into the block, the mallet and then the sledgehammer methods failed to remove it. After getting frustrated and leaving it overnight, I tried putting a large bolt with a nut threaded onto it on top of the pump and tightening the bolt so that the end pressed against the engine and the edge of the nut pressed on the pulley flange of the pump. With that in place, I tapped it back and forth with the sledgehammer, tightened the bolt half a turn, and repeated the process. After about 10 minutes the pump was appreciably loosened, a solid belt on the bottom of the flange loosened it, coolant went everywhere, and I had room for a new water pump.

That was a pig of a job, I envy those of you who were able to just tap it out with a mallet.
November 1, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: yes it is a good idea to "walk" the component off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Henry Nokia Comments: I also find this problem of stucked waterpump on 318 M42 engine. Nothing ordinary tricks did not helped. So I bild my own special too, so feel free to copy this inexpensive and effective tool. It will help pump out fast and easy.
October 18, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Nice work - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Matt Comments: My pump was heavily corroded in. I tried the two screw approach, gently and broke a piece of the water oump away and threded the other one. 2nd attempt: Build a custom puller and apply considerable pressure via 2 bolts. result: broke th two bolts. 3rd attempt hit the pump hard with a sledge hammer until it gives in: The pump broke off. I used a dremel to cut some of these pump out of the head, and the rest came out OK. It's a good tip to remove the thermostat if trying this approach or you will bust the housing. ended up being a 6 hour job. Phew. Good luck all
September 22, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the damage assessment - Nick at Pelican Parts  
spikedart Comments: to Jlo15, I wish I had read this before I "pulled my pump off and noticed the threads too. I had to use a sledgehammer to break the corroded seal, and in the process smashed one of the ends of the thermostat housing.
September 11, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hindsight is 90 / 90 - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cavalier.lad Comments: To USMC4LIFEits ethier your head gasget is gone! or thers and air lock in your rad,it happend on of my friend cars he has a 02 318 and same problem as you heating up every two mins.ther should be a vslve on top of the rad to let out the air...
September 3, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tip - Nick at Pelican Parts  
lou Comments: i have a 1990 bmw 325i the bolts that holds the alternator and the power stering pump broke so the belt runs a little loose and making noise and the car is heating up fast.How do i fix this? Part of the bolts are inside of the engine block, they need to be removed and retapped. Does anybody bhave an idea? thank you.
August 21, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes you have to drill a new hole and tap threads or install an insert - Nick at Pelican Parts  
avinit4 Comments: Article of no use for changing water pump on 1986 e30 325i
August 13, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The 1986 is an E30 the article is for the E36 - Nick at Pelican Parts  
USMC4LIFE Comments: 2004 BMW 330I... pls respond. My car is overheating after two min. of driving. I've change the thermosat and water pump. i have slight leak as well but i dont see how i can disconnect the hoses. Any response is better than no response. Thanks!
August 7, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have a bad head gasket - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Wayne at Pelican Parts Comments: Wayne,

I recently completed the update of the cooling system on my '94 318i. I found your book to be helpful except for the instructions on removing the water pump. You stated to use a rubber mallet and this just wouldn't budge it for me. So as a last resort I looked in my Bently manual and it described some pilot holes that were designed to drive the pump out with screws. This worked like a charm. Please update your article to include this method. This would have saved me some time and frustration.

Thanks,
Kevin Morgan
July 11, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes your right and I'm glad it helped you - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Brett Comments: my 1992 e36 325i has a 99 m3 3.2L I6 swap in it and last night it got hot on me well come to find out the small plug beside the radiator cap had blown out....replaced it and had no heat so i replaced the thermostat in which i used a good small bead of red rtv on the housing to seal it good and now have a leak from underneath looks like its come from water pump and the belts screech from water on them. i didnt have an o ring for the thermostat would that cause it to leak like that ? please help if someone can.....and also how hard is it to do a toyota supra 2jzgte swap into an e36 i found a kit that comes with a plug and play harness and custom mounts for motor and trans and custom drive shaft any and all comments and help is appriciated. shoot me an email at BRETTWIL13@GMAIL.COM THANKS GUYS
June 16, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes the o-ring could cause the leak. The overheating might because of the bad head gasket that caused excessive pressure in the cooling system and blew out the bleed plug but that is pretty rare - Nick at Pelican Parts  
laurenarce Comments: Hello,

For those hard to remove BMW water pumps that are fused to the engine block, we sell a water pump removal tool:

http://mysite.verizon.net/res8nm26/bmwtools/index.html

Thanks.
-Lauren
April 30, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks Lauren - Nick at Pelican Parts  
530i Comments: Already changed water pump thermostat and flush radiator
March 18, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds to me like everything is working fine. How was it working before you did the work? - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
530i Comments: My 1994 530I bmw has the temp at half all the time
And makes pressure on hoses when on what could be the cuase.
March 18, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The temp being half way and the hoses with a little bit of pressure is normal. Typical cooling systems can handle up to 15 to 16 psi in them. What is the problem with you car? Does it overheat? - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Deetch Comments: I have 2 1991 E30 318 one is an I.S. the other is a rag top
I did my rag top in under 45 min the tabs did not break


the IS lets just say I had to pound the hell out of the damn pump 4 1/4 hours after all was said and done
thanks for all you help guys it did help and
If I would have been smarter I would have built myself a puller as pictured above by Nelson
good luck to anyone doing this job it's a toss up if it's going to be easy or a major pain in the u know what

March 14, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Some jobs are better than others. At least you got it finished - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Rackjabbit Comments: Replace 2002 525i coolant pump and fan clutch.
With the great tips from Pelican and friends, went to the hardware store bought the 6mm bolts and some lithium grease and expected the worst. Other than the stupid fan shroud design should be like a bikini, an upper bit and a lower bit, not a one piece, the coolant pump removed easily no hammers and not even a thought of a swear word. In all about 5 hours 3 hours looking for my tools the teenagers have moved around. I am happy I have my car back.
March 3, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Glad we could help, good job - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Lauren Arce Comments: For those having a hard time removing your e36 water pump, we sell a water pump removal tool. See our website @

http://mysite.verizon.net/res8nm26/bmwtools/id5.html

We have sold several of them. We sell them for $65 including shipping within the continental US. We recently upgrade the tool design so we will posting it on the website above within a day or two. Drop me an email if interested. Thanks!
February 11, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for letting out customers know - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Superbmw 88 Comments: Another way to help to remove the water pump is to remove your Radiator and Condenser this will allow you to put a small slide hammer on the water pump and give few strong slides and it will slowly move out. It take a while to make it work, but as I was helping a friend of mine to remove his same problem as my, but it took two guys 3 hours to get everything removed and took 20 Minutes with slide hammer of constant pounding finally it give, so this can be a good idea for all E36 4 Cylinder Cars.
January 26, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the advice for our readers - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Superbmw 88 Comments: Spent $180 yesterday have BMW Certified Technician worked on the water pump, they pumped the Cooling system with pressure and pry bar and small pry bar to get it out, it was the rubber which expanded and cause it to fused with engine block. The Plastic Impeller is broken off into two pieces before the job other parts must be shredded into pieces. It was not easy, because it require at least two people applying pressure and third person to manage the pressure. It took them 1.5 hours to get it out and try to fish out pieces. Tools they used include Air Hammer, 48" Pry Bar, 6" Pry Bar, and Air Pressure Tools. We got splashed with my 3rd Radiator Flush, which is Distill water, it started as easy job turns into a tough job, if you doing it for the first time, have some one do it is worth the $180 on labor. When they get it out of the car have them apply tons Lithium Grease on it, so next time it will be easy slide out. Good Luck! If you are in Atlanta the place I go to is European Cars on Pleasant Hill Road near Peachtree Industrial Blvd.
January 17, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yeah as metal expands and contracts it can seize in there, also corrosion can be a factor as well - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Superbmw 88 Comments: Will Thermostat create a vaccum seal that I was unable to pull the Water Pump out of the car. 1995 BMW 318ti. Will that be the problem?
January 16, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, once you take of the hoses the system is now open. Try soaking the water pump with penetrating oil - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Superbmw 88 Comments: Having Super Hard time to take my 318ti Water Pump Off the car it is impossible bruised both arms and lots of scratches and back pain the sucker just will not come out. Tried all the method listed in the forum whacking it with Mullet, Hammer, and using jacking screws broke the flange on the water pump. This job turns out to be tougher than I thought any suggestions? Warming the car don't work, flush coolant 3 times burp the car still don't work, built the pull tool did not work, running out the ideas anyone can help that will be great.
January 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try soaking it with penetrating oil and heating up the pump (it's going to get replaced anyway) - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
mattintosh Comments: Wife has a 323i Wagon. Needs a radiator hose etc. Decided to replace all I could once in there. Bought the two special wrenches. They are bulky and awkward to use but darn near mandatory. Once I got the fan clutch loose it was a piece of cake! Going to replace radiator all hoses, water pump, ox sensor, thermostat, fan clutch. So far really easy. Thanks for the insight.
January 5, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
eisenheim Comments: to bleed/refill the system:

Heater control to Hot.
Fill with coolant until it reaches the right level.
Loosen bleed screw
Turn Ignition On, not the engine.
Slowly add coolant until it spills through the bleed screw.
DONE.

Taken from another well known manual and worked like a charm on my car. You can actually hear the air escaping though the bleed screw.

December 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: thanks for the tip! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Eiseheim Comments: If you do not have the bmw special tool for removing the fan but a rather long spanner on it and give it a controlled wack with a medium hammerno rubber. CLOCKWISE!

December 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I respectfully disagree with this approach. While it may work sometimes, I have many emails from people who have broken their pump or flange in this manner. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
JJ ze Jetplane Comments: Also, for those with the stuck pump, I searched many forums besides this one and the best way to get it out isn't to mash it with a hammer 'til it becomes loose, but to use the anchor bolts to push the pump away from the head. Be sure, however, to not put too much force on it and to use both bolts to apply even pressure on both sides. Keep in mind you are putting a concentrated force on the engine when doing this, and if you don't apply force evenly, you can crack the housing I've read horror stories. Mine came out super easy by turning each one about 1 full turn and going back and forth.
December 26, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You are correct. Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JJ ze Jetplane Comments: I have recently used this article to replace the water pump in my '97 318is. When I pulled the water pump, I found that I had the plastic style impeller, which had broken into many pieces. I pulled out every little piece I could find with my fingers, and tried flushing out the system as best as I could with my garden hose. After putting the system back together with the new water pump installed, it started overheating which it had not done when the broken pump was in place. I made sure the coolant level was where it should be some pockets of air forced themselves out and the coolant was low. This did not fix the problem, so I blamed it on the thermostat. I continued to replace the thermostat, and still no luck, the car starts to overheat if I drive it. Other things I have noticed: 1 The hose that goes from the radiator to the thermostat left hand side does not heat up while the hose on the right hand side gets hot and pressurized. 2 There is now no heat entering the cabin of the car even when I try to turn the fan on all the way and have all the heat settings to max. My best guess is that the heating valve has now become blocked with some of the broken plastic pieces of the propeller. Does anyone have any other suggestions or ideas why my coolant system is not working properly? I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions.
December 26, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like trapped air to me. Check if the bleeder hole in the reservoir has a steady stream of coolant that increases when engine RPM is raised. If not, air may be trapped. It's also a possibility that pieces of the water pump impellar is stuck somewhere int he cooling system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
TK Comments: So my V belt came off, while i was replacing it i noticed my water pump was shot . So i replaced my water pump and the belts. I didnt drain the coolant like i was suppose to first but i attempted to top it off with coolant after the instalation. Anyhow, Now my car is over heating. Any ideas why? maybee I should bleed the coolant system, or perhaps the new belt made the thermostat go out? im stuck any help is apreciated thanks.
December 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check if air is trapped in the cooling system. If you didn't bleed it, this would be the best place to start. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jaguilar Comments: I need to replace the water pump on my 2006 BMW 330i, where and which part do get this from? I've already replaced thermostat but the car is still overheating and the fan sounds super loud when using the heater. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thx!!
November 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A 2006 model is an E90, this tech article will help you with replacing the water pump: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/WATER-Coolant_Pump_Replacement/WATER-Coolant_Pump_Replacement.htm

Be sure to bleed the cooling system and top it up. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
DAK Comments: How do I change the heater hoses in the rear at the firewall of my 1998 M
318Ti? Short of dropping the engine, how do you do it???
November 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have to remove the intake manifold. Once removed, you can access the heater hoses and pipes. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
amon Comments: the guy who said to warm it up first,thanks works a treat
October 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad it worked out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
318i Guy Comments: Wow, just tried to take my water pump, damn it gave me a hell of a time.

Was going to do what nicke36 said, but was a lil apprehensive, SOOO, went to the shed, what could I find to do the job.... A mattock, nice big thick counter leaver.... It worked brilliantly.....

Covered the new one in some lithium paste so it doesn't happen again!

October 13, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Miami Comments: My 2006 325i is losing coolant and the overheat red light is coming on. It's taken BMW service 1 1/2 days to figure it out. A electric coolant pump is costing $1022 and the thermostat $ 134 and fault battery cable, IBS intelligent battery sensor $477..... What a joke for only having 70,000 miles and of course out of warranty
September 27, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A 2006 model is an E90, this tech article will help you with replacing the water pump: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/WATER-Coolant_Pump_Replacement/WATER-Coolant_Pump_Replacement.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tungsten222000 Comments: I've just removed the water pump from daughters 94 318is. the saga went like this...
Removed all bolts, inserted 2 bolts to "jack" the pump out of the housing, broke off both jacking tabs, applied small taps to the nose of the pump with a mallet... no movement, applied larger taps... no movement, applied large taps with a large ball pein hammer... very slight movement, applied a pry bar and wooden block as a protective fulcrum point... about 1 mm movement at the top of the pump but nothing at the bottom, eventually applied stupid gorilla size brute force and smashed the pump... front half fell out but the rear half and impeller were still stuck, spent over two hours with a Dremel, hammer, cold chisel and the gorilla to break the remains out of the housing, all the time fearing a crack developing in the timing case.
It appears that the pump, housing, a little corrosion and some time cause the components to grow together. I'll be using some petroleum jelly fairly liberally for the reassembly but I think that it may have a limited lifespan in that environment.
I think its best to be prepared with a puller and sufficient wood to spread the load across the housing.
September 21, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Wow, must have had a lot of corrosion. Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
melvin Comments: how much to fit a fan belt to my 316I compact
September 5, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check with a local shop. Installation prices vary depending on region. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Blue Comments: How can I find out if my water pumps out
August 27, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Once the engine warms up and the hoses at thermostat are about the same temperature, check the bleeder hole in the reservoir for a steady stream of coolant, the stream should increase along with engine RPM. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
paul_deneen Comments: Two weeks back noticed my vehicles temp gauge spike up to the red. Before any major damaged stopped vehicle and left it. Replaced water pump and thermostat according to your instructions. Also bled the system. Started the vehicle up and seemed to hold alright. Took it for a spin and still spiking up high with the temperature. Both upper and lower hose have a lot of pressure after I drove the vehicle and temp spiked up high. Any suggestions what may else be going on?
August 27, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks, you may have a faulty head gasket. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
nicke36 Comments: ok... ive had a lot of trouble removing the water pump.. i removed all four bolts and smacked it with a hammer ...nothin!.. heres what u should do to get it off within the hour... Make sure ur fan belt is off and radiator.. Start ur car up and keep an eye on the temp gauge... approx 15min running time. switch it off and proceed to whack the crap out of it with a hammer. I have tried for days with copious amounts of wd40 and penetrating oil.. but i found once the car is warm it makes the job easier... 4 whacks of the hammer and a thought of my old boss the Bastard came off.. and im tellin you this water pump was stubborn as all hell... trust me it works..
July 27, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
nicke36 Comments: ok ive done most of it... i removed the 3 bolts and the bolt with the allen key... with great difficulty mind you... is there any other nuts or bolts that need to be removed? i still cant get it out no matter how much wd40 or pen oil i use it wont budge... ive smacked it with a hammer and still nothin! please help me.. thank you
July 26, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. The holes for the bolts are located at the sides of the water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Owen Comments: Well it's out, but I doubt it will ever talk tome again. Removing the bonnet gave a much better view and angle of attack. Eventually enough light taps with the hammer broke the internal collar of the pump. This allowed me to prise the mangled remains from the hole. Bits of impeller remained and I ran the hose through it several times to flush these bits out. All in all a horrific experience. Don't take this approach if at all possible. Remove the bonnet and even the grills if necc and use a puller of some description. Off to buy white lithium grease in the morning and hopefully reassembly will involve less hammers and a lot less swearing. Good luck to anyone taking this job on and use a puller if it is stuck like a bastard.
April 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Owen Comments: Fabricated a counter tool from angle iron. Worked a charm and the fan came off. Removed the pulley bolts 4. Removed the Water Pump bolts4. Inserted two of them into the housing and gently turned then one turn at a time to extract the pump. Snap went the first one. Snap went the second one. "Oh dear, how terrible frustrating" I mused aloud. Leverage, that's the answer. Err no it's not. The Internet, that's the answer and here we are. Lots of WD40 later, combined with a hammer and a drift, I have two to three mm of rotation. Am hoping that overnight the WD40 will continue to penetrate. Current plan is to continue the back and forth rotation in order to weaken the grip further. Then maybe a stilson on the housing to generate more rotation and then I'm hoping to be able to apply some pressure forwards to ease it out. Local supplier can only provide a plastic impeller. First one was already broken when we opened the box. Will update soon. Sigh.
April 20, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jeremiah Comments: Hi, I have a '95 318is, it's been making a squeaking from the engine, I thought it was the belts, but now I'm pretty sure it's the water pump. I recently changed the coolant, and it really affected the sound of the squeaking, plus the sound is coming from the pump. Someone informed me that it may be the pulley, but looking at images of the pulley, it doesn't look like it even has a bearing, and it looks like it just bolts on the front of the pump, so it doesn't seem like that could be it. Do you know if this pulley has a bearing that could be making the noise? Thanks.
April 16, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: All the components in the engine that rotate have bearings, so it may be the bearings inside the pump. You can remove the drive belt and fan and then try to turn the pump with your hand. You may find that it sticks or is not smooth, which is an indication that it needs to be replaced. You can try removing the belt from the water pump and then running the engine for a few seconds when its cold to see if the sound disappears. If it does go away, then it's most likely your water pump. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Sar226 Comments: Thanks for your tips...we got the pump out using a bigger hammer and a bit more force...came out pretty easy after all.
April 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. The holes for the bolts are located at the sides of the water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
davez3 Comments: wayne - thanks for the quick response. I was leaning towards aftermarket but needed a second opinion! Is there particular better brand ? thanks again Dave.
March 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have a preference, but if you click on the "More Info" link next to the part, you will see a popup that will show you our rating for a particular brand. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
daveZ3 Comments: Quick question - going to do a wp change on a e36/m52 what is the best waterpump to use for - Is there a oem metal impeller wp? or something better? - Thanks in advance Dave
March 6, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've heard of issues with both styles of pumps. If it were my car though, I would opt for the metal impeller pumps (which are the aftermarket ones - OEM / Genuine ones are still plastic). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Dave Comments: Hi Guys / Wayne,
Thanks for the support. Replaced the water pump & thermostat.
Flushed, cleaned & refilled the system and bled it. But the car still overheats!
The pipe to the radiator gets hot; the return pipe remains cool. Is this because the water is not circulating? I removed the radiator flushed with water from the tap - good pressure. Applied the hose to the small pipe from the radiator to the block, - no obstructions.
What else could be the problem?
February 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Well, the top of the hose being hot and the bottom being cold is sort of the way it's supposed to be. If both were cold, then there would be nothing circulating. Hot on top, cold on bottom means the radiator is doing its job - cooling the coolant. I'm guessing that you have an air bubble in there - try bleeding the system 3-4 more times with the heater on. Sometimes these BMW cooling systems can be difficult to extract all of the air from. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jas1 Comments: You Guys at Pelican Parts are Great! Thanks from us all!!
Just thought you deserved that!
February 16, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the kind words! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Dave Comments: Hi Wayne,
Thanks very much for your reply. I used a hammer and a cold chisel - still no luck! I then found the article on the bolts, and ended up breaking the flange as you said. Now its bust! The top section at 12 o'clock came out about 3mm. The bottom stayed tight. I then used the cold chisel aginst the flange and managed to rotate it a bit to the left. Then to the right. So I went left & right a couple of times - then it slid out by hand! That msy be another approach.

Kind regards
dave
February 14, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yup, everyone eventually gets it out, but with varying amounts of force needed to be applied! :) - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Dave Comments: Hi, Please help, if you can.
I have a 1997 316i. I am trying to remove the water pump. I have removed the 4 bolts 1 utilises and allen key. I initally tapped it with a hammer to loosen it - no luck.
I sprayed releasant on it, left it for more than an hour. 'Attacked' with the hammer - stil no luck.
Any suggestions.
See photo's the water pump is in block -different from your example.
Thanks very Dave
February 13, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A lot of people seem to have this problem. There is another method where you can use some long bolts threaded into the holes of the pump and then drive them against the case to push the water pump out. But, I have also heard of a lot of people breaking the tabs off of the old water pump too, while attempting this. It sounds funny, but I would try a bigger hammer. Sometimes a rubber mallet just isn't going to cut it, and these tend to get really, really stuck sometimes. People always manage to get them out, but sometimes you have to ratchet up the force that you use. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jimmie Comments: wow a site thats really helpful. Done my water pump in 15 minutes. Thanks guys and i didnt even after look any further for advice. Welldone.
February 11, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cliftonracing Comments: trying to get the fan clutch off the water pump help me.
January 15, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You need to use the tool that is shown in Figure 2 of this article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Radiator-Replacement/E36-Radiator-Replacement.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Joe90 Comments: When i tighened the bolts back up on the housing, even using a torque wrench set correctly, the bottom left looking face on bolt just snapped with hardly any pressure.. As its the bottom left, adn the car is used for trackdays, can i just leave it? As the pully+belt will pull it in that direction only? If not is there actually a water pump housing? or is it part of a larger 'bit'
November 29, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would probably remove it and replace that broken bolt. Otherwise, you might experience some coolant leaks in the future. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
remy Comments: Thanks Wayne. Turns out the water pump seized, and snapped the belts. Shop replaced pump, thermostat, pulleys and belts. $1,200 total...
November 28, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
remy Comments: 2002 BMW 325XiT Wagon - 140,000 miles, Driving along when heard some noise in the engine bay, then the battery light came on, indicating no battery charge, or an alternator failure. Noticed vapor smoke behind me so stopped the car at a gas station. Smoke coming out of the engine bay,
Lifted the hood, smelled coolant, noticed the serpentine belts were gone.
Had the steering/coolant belt replaced 8 months ago, and had the expansion tank and hoses replaced 3 months ago.

I can live withthe belt issue as it could be from the pulley, but what about the coolant leak? The temperature gauge did not budge, whereas in the past with belt or tank failure, it has gone to bright red immediately. Could something have happened to the water pump?
November 25, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, not good. If the car is spitting vapor out of the tailpipe, then you have a head gasket leak. Here's what might have happened - you had a belt break, and temps spiked, but since the water pump wasn't pumping coolant through the system, perhaps the temp near the sensor didn't get hot (just the heads). I would put a new belt on, drain / flush the coolant, bleed the system, and hope for the best. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
handyandy Comments: Great articles on what I understand is a common cause of overheating. I've just bought a 1999 323i E36 convertible with the M52 2.5l petrol engine. Did this model feature an uprated water pump or should I look to change it. The engine has done 68,000 miles and doesn't seem to overheat.
November 10, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: BMW switched back and forth between metal and plastic impellers over the years. The only way I know of to tell which one is in there is to remove it, unfortunately. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
craggy Comments: My water pump looks different to the one shown above, as though its inset,see pic Have removed the four outer bolts but they don't seem to be doing anything, there are also four hex key bolts, I assume these are actually holding the pump in place, the jacking holes are top and bottom although can't get anything into bottom hole as the cog is in the way. The replacement pump which I've been assured is for my make, model year bmwlooks different to the the one I'm removing, pretty much like the one above, looks like it is attached using the outer bolts not the hex ones. Do you think this will fit and form a good seal, any advice is welcome.
September 29, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, you will have to remove those Allen bolts. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Pete Comments: Just came in from pulling the pump from my '96 318ti. It was stuck pretty good. I put the jack bolts in and snugged them up. I tapped and prodded. I snugged up the bolts some more. Tapped some more. No movement. Tighten. Tap. Repeat. Finally the lower tab holding the jack screw breaks off. Crap. Pry. Tap. Pry. Tighten the top screw some more. Finally the housing or most of it pops out, but it's broken just below the o-ring groove, and broken the plastic impeller off the shaft. Double crap! Fortunately the rest of the housing wiggles out without too much difficulty. I then spent an hour fishing out the broken pieces of the impeller. Ugh. On closer inspection I can see that the top jack bolt never actually made contact with the pad it pushes on. The threads in the housing were corroded enough that it felt as though it had made contact, when in fact it was just binding in the threads, and wasn't pushing at all.

So: If you are removing the pump on your car, take a few minutes and run a tap or thread chaser through the jackbolt holes. It'll probably save you some grief.
August 27, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. The holes for the bolts are located at the sides of the water pump.


Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
micky1m Comments: This is how i done mine which was very stubborn. Used the two 6mm bolts and used the two jacking points on the pump, the idea is to carefully and evenly tighten the two 6mm bolts two to three turns at a time then undo them tap the pump with a mallet back in the housing and reapeat this process a good few times and this should release the stubborn pump out. NEVER ATTEMPT TO TURN THE 2 BOLTS FULLY THE FIRST TIME AS THIS WOULD PROBABLY BREAK THE LUGS BE PATIENT AND TAKE A LITTLE MORE TIME BY THREADING THEM IN AND THREADING THEM OUT AND BY TAPPING THE PUMP WITH THE MALLET IN AND ROUND. I would not recommend using too much pressure on the chain cover as this could crack the casing.
July 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
scott Comments: I am loosing water from my 97 318i which has 165000 miles on the clock, it is not over heating but is losing water. The oil is clean ie no white scummy stuff so i was wondering if it is the water pump leaking????? thanks.
June 19, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's probably losing coolant throught the head gasket and it's going out the exhaust of the car. Check your car to see if you have steam coming from the tailpipe when the engine is running. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
birdieca Comments: Hi- Have a 2000 BMW Z3 with about 115000 miles. My alternator went 6 months ago, then the radiator inlet had to replace the whole radiator. Now the water pump goes 2 weeks after the radiator replacement. While waiting for the tow truck, notices that the housing around the fan was badly cracked and looked like it had been really stressed. Could this be an issue with just putting the radiator in and somehow building up some stress when it was installed. Or am I just unlucky?
May 5, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When the car overheats, it stresses a lot of different components all over the car. So when one thing goes, sometimes the inherent damage shows up in failures of nearby components. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
dog18 Comments: how do you bleed the cooling system?? can you plz tell me
April 27, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check out this article for the full instructions: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Coolant_Flush/E36-Coolant-Flush.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Ferrari007 Comments: I have tried all the methods for removal of the broken water pump. Now I am at the stage of smashing the little bit that is left in the block with a cole chisel. I hope this works. If the unit had not have broken whilst using the jacking points I think this would have been an easy job.
Much easier to do on a V8 Mercedes by far as I have done a few of them.
April 20, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you tried screwing bolts in the side flanges? Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. The holes for the bolts are located at the sides of the water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
danny Comments: omg i payed 900 dollar's to get that installed what a rip off would of had been better installing it myself
April 17, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Wish you foundus sooner. Check with next time you need a repair, we might have a DiY article to help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
unixnerd Comments: A lot of folk seem to have trouble removing the pump, it this on different engines? I just checked a spare M42 pump and it goes at least an inch further into the engine. I imagine it'd be a good deal harder to remove than M52? pump pictured.
April 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. The holes for the bolts are located at the sides of the water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
robdub Comments: Hello wayne,Need to change the water pump on my E3o 316 Lux touring. Where can I get the special tool in fig 2 from. The one to remove the fan. Great articles,many thanks
Rob
April 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Glenn Comments: Followed the plan, and it worked great. Got everything off the front and started in on the waterpump and stripped a nut. The more I worked on it the worse it became. Now what? I'm one nut away from waterpump replacement and being back on the road. Help.
March 7, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try using a 12 point socket slightly smaller than the stripped nut, fractional sizing if you have too. Lightly hammer the socket ontot he nut, then remove it. The smaller socket should fit very snug once hammered on and provide enough grip to remove the stripped nut. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jdoon Comments: Did a company manufacture Nelson's pully yet? Every idea that has been mentioned has been tried and haas failed. It is snowy here, and I think my hands will fall off before my water pump will. I'll look for the Jlo15 threaded lugs. Great site - not wanting to pay the shop / mechanic cost, I'll be back on.
February 16, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

As far as I know no one has made that puller, we are glad you enjoy the site.
 
garyhgaryh Comments: To get the pump out, I just use 2 of the 4 bolts w/o the washers that hold the pully to the water pump. That lifted the water pump out about 1/4 inch. I was able to pull out the water pump.

I noticed my water pump pulley is damaged. The inner ridges of pulley is chipped away. Should I replace it?
February 15, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, I would replace the pulley. It could damage your drive belt in that condition. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RustyPump Comments: Ha ha! I managed to get it out after blowing chunks off it! by drenching it in wd40, leaving it overnight and tapping it with a lump hammer, going round it in clockwise circles. When it appeared to loosen, I attempted to tug it with a large slide hammer and chain. The pump broke into two. About 65per cent of the pump came free, the remaining 35per cent remained stuck in the block. I had to use a very powerful die grinder and guage a trough out of the outer casing, then use two large prys to break the casing away from the block surface. Utter pig of a job.
January 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

Boy that sounds like a lot of work, that thing was really rusted in there, thanks for the feedback.
 
Anubis Comments: ugh!! Avoid that mallet suggestion at all costs!! While applying this method my mallet "somehow" made contact with the thermostat housing and, well, let's just say I now need to replace that too. All that and it didn't even work. Definitely not the right way to go about this.

Just borrow the two airbox mounting bolts as suggested by others and screw them into the two empty ports on the water pump. That will lift it out in about 5 seconds flat. Wish I had tried that FIRST!!
January 18, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough. Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RustyPump Comments: Tap it with a mallet?! Use the jacking bolt points?! I work in accident repair and have tried every bar, pry, lever and pivot i can. The jacking holes cracked off. I have tried a slide hammer attached to m6 bolts with reinforced washers, attached to the 4 holes on the pump that the pulley bolts onto. I have smashed this filthy little urchin with a 14lb sledgehammer and a bar.This sucker will not move. I have tried jacking under the pump and this just lifts the whole engine on its mounts. Bits just seem to be smashing off the pump. Is there a special type of bearing puller with external legs that will draw this rodent out?
January 9, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

Sounds like you had a tough time getting the water pump out, thanks for the feedback
 
blackshark Comments: Can I use a regular lithium grease not white or do i need exactly "white lithium grease"??
Thanx in advance!
January 7, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

I would use fresh coolant to lube the o-ring,
 
bpbville Comments: I am trying to decide if I need to replace my water pump on my BMW 330i. I have replaced every coolant part except the water pump and have spent over a thousand dollars so far. So I am searching for some sign that this is not just more money being thrown at a lost cause. When I say I have replaced every coolant related item I mean everything. The problem now is that the coolant is coming out of the cap of the expansion tank. The car will drive and be normal for up to 20-30 miles and at times it will not drive make it no more a mile without overheating and boiling over the cap. Is the coolant leakage, in massive amounts,out of the cap a sign of a bad water pump? I know I should just go ahead and replace it, but I can not stand the idea of adding more money into a project that I simply can not seem to get fixed. Any advice would welcomed.
January 6, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

Sounds like the car is running hot, you can check to see if the water pump is working by looking in the top of the coolant tank with the car running and look for coolant flow from the small hole at the top of the inside of the tank, if there is flow the pump is working, if not remove the pump and check to see if the impeller is broken off the water pump. Also check the upper and lower hoses to make sure the thermostat is opening up.
 
Kregger Comments: Followed your directions and had the Bimmer back on the road in about an hour! Can't thank you enough!!
January 3, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

Glad it all worked out for you, thanks for the feedback
 
noll81 Comments: I have an 06 330i that won't stop leaking coolant. I've checked, and no leaks in the hose or radiator. any guesses, pump or thermostat?
January 2, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

You need to pressure test the cooling system with a pressure tester, this tool will help you pin point he leak and save you a lot of time.
 
beano Comments: i have a bmw e36 320 cab and having just replaced the rad cause it was leeking ive now got no warm air in the car. and the car ,the temp dont move above the half way mark .ive bled the system a few times and also removed the heater hoses from the bulc head and thay was warm water from it so ive tuck out the old water pump and stat which look to be ok the stat does open but found it to be sticking the odd time also there is no sing of water in the oil so dont think its the head gasget but still not getting warm in car can any one help please
December 28, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

Check to make sure the heater control valve is opening up, it should be in line with the inlet heater hose.
 
kb Comments: what would the BEST way to remove the pulley from the water pump flange without warping or damaging it??? it seems to be fused on there and not going anywhere. what should i do?? how do i go about getting the pulley off??
December 14, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, that's odd, I haven't really seen that before. I would just take a rubber mallet and smack it a few times. I suspect you're replacing the water pump, so there's no fear of damaging the pump? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
BMW girl Comments: I replaced my water pump in my 1995 530I BMW at 42,000 miles. I now have 101,000 and was told that my water pump is leaking and the pipe in back of the motor and 2 gaskets and 4 seals need replacing. Is this common for a water pump to go out within this time?
November 11, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

It is not uncommon for a water pump to last that long, the good news is the replacement lasted longer than the original.
 
tommy Comments: Thank you very much for the detailed instructions. They couldn't have been any more simpler
October 25, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
archy09 Comments: hi, i think my head gaskit is cracked with water filling in cylinders because when i put water at the front it comes out the exaust the car is not started, but thers no sighn of water gone in the engine oil, can that be repaired as the engine is in mint condition with 46k.thank you
October 24, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See my article on the head gasket replacement right here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-17-Head-Gasket/101-Projects-17-Head-Gasket.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
DenverBmr Comments: I was able to get the water pump out of my 95 318is. I was able to just slip off the belt to gain access to the water pump; was fairly easy. I had to hammer and break the water pump to get it out. Thanks for you help Pelican Crew. I replaced the water pump but she is still over heating. I will try replacing the Thermostat and bleeding the coolant system. The rubber hose coming out of the radiator is hot, the hose out of the engine into the bottom of the radiator is cold.
October 20, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Bleed the system 3-4 times to make sure that you have all air bubbles out (with the heater on). That is what I had to do on my car. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
namastesc Comments: I cant seem to find any articles about replacing the water pump on a 1994 525i on your site. Can u help with that? Thanks!
October 2, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's almost exactly the same as the one in this article. There should be very little difference. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
wildchild Comments: I have changed the water pump, and the plastic impeller had already broken...I thought I had fixed the problem, but the car is still overheating. What if the plastic impeller breaks apart, and some pieces go into the system? How could you flush out the block to remove the pieces of plastic.
September 27, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You probably have an issue with air in your system - take a closer look at the article on bleeding the coolant system. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
BMW Wagon Man Comments: Here's the front view.
September 21, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

Great picture thanks for the feedback
 
BMW Wagon Man Comments: Just did the water pump on my 1992 525i Touring. It wouldn't move even when I tapped it with a hammer. I went to the hardware store and got 2 M6 bolts 1.00 x 75. I slowly tightened each bolt a couple of turns at a time. The water pump just popped out easily.
September 21, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

That's great thanks for the feedback
 
americanmade for me Comments: I'm trying to replace the water pump on a 1998 BMW 318i, 4 cylinder. I have read your article but the BMW water pump I'm working on does not look like the one in the article. I'm to the point where I'm suppose to use a hammer, I have two issue since this is not working for me. The 'jacking holes" appear to be at the top and at the bottom, is this correct? The other issue is that there seems to be a cast or other type of plate bolted to the block that appears to be over the housing of the water pump and thus sort of holding the pump in place, any suggustions?
September 6, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

The best thing to do to remove the water pump is to use 2 6mm bolts and tighten them slowly and evenly until the pump is loose
 
antz Comments: Ihav a 1999 318i and nor 4 the love off money can i get the water pump to come out think im going to hav to resort to a garage : money money money :
September 1, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Since the comments section of this article was put up, I've had a lot of people say they couldn't get the water pump off. I swear, mine did just come off with a few whacks of a hammer. Take a look at some of the other suggestions that people have had here. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Nelson Comments: Here's the picture, you wanted, of my makeshift water pump puller...take it and run with it.
I put feet on the bottom of the verticals to help distribute the load across the front of the motor. I had no idea how much pressure that housing would be able to withstand and didn't want to risk over stressing it. By not welding the feet to the puller the feet were able to pivot and find a friendly load distribution across the surface of the front housing. Spreading the load, seemed a less offensive approach.
August 20, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Wow, that's impressive. I will send a link to this article to our tool manufacturer to see what he thinks. Thanks! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
BMW Mom Comments: Thanks for the help. The replacement of the radiator and the H2O pump was an adventure.I ended up making the "tool" by taking apart a ruler/level combo, drilling the holes for the 6mm bolts shaving out an area for the shaft. Wrapped the ruler end in a rag for human comfort, called a strong friend I am a hundred pounder soaking wet he steadied the shaft while I turned the 32mm nut to release the fan. After that hte project was a breeze with the tech brief at my side. I noe have a happy kid, happy car and I learned that I am no longer thrilled with working the BMW. My 1969 Spit is much easier with its itty bitty engine and tiny parts.
August 19, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

Thanks for the feedback, I am glad it all worked out for you
 
Nelson Comments: Had a bad time getting the old pump out of a 1994 318is...275,000 miles. The thing was practically welded into place. the jack screw method recommended by the Bently manual left me with tabs of the casting on the pump broken away from the pump on both sides. I said some not so nice things at this point. after 20 min of scratching my head, I made a puller from a piece of 5/16 x 1" flat stock that was about 5" long. I drilled two holes in the flat stock such that a couple of long 6mm bolts would go through the holes and directly into two of the opposing holes that hold the pulley on the front of the pump. At this point you have just over an inch of stock extending past the edges of the pump. next I cut a couple of pieces of rigid pipe to a length that when resting on a bolt on the front of the motor, it extended just far enough to hold the flat stock about an inch away from the threaded end of the old pump. At this point I was able to pull the pump out by alternating single revolution turns of the long 6mm bolts I had chosen until the thing finally popped out. I was kind of afraid to put too much pressure on the front of the motor. I kept the legs of the puller as close to the housing bolts as I could hoping there was a little more strength there and it worked for me. Truthfully I don't think there was any other way...that thing was in there and wasn't going anywhere without some serious persuading.
August 16, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've gotten a lot of comments / emails from people who are replacing their water pump and having a very difficult time getting it out of the bore. Frankly, I never had this problem, and smacking it with a rubber mallet a few times worked fine for me. I suspect that really, really old pumps might be very stuck in there. Using the tabs to push the pump out sometimes works, but also sometimes breaks the tabs off of the old pump (which is okay, as you are just going to toss it anyway). Looks like there actually might be a market for the tool that you developed there! Can you upload a photo? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jorge Comments: Pelican, great tip and instructions, thank you!. Also I would recommend to use the two thread holes on the side of the pump, I used two bolts out of four that came out of the thermostat housing im replacing it also. It works easy creating a jack effect. Thread slowly two turns at a time on each bolt, creating an even jack effect on the pump housing, visually check that the housing is detaching evenly from the engine block, keep doing until you can pull the pump with just your hand.
August 15, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

I am glad it all worked out for you thanks for the feedback
 
BMW Mom Comments: I have a 1995 325is. I am having to go over my daughter's crappy lazy boyfriend's work. He\they his "car guy buddy" were supposed to be replacing hte waterpump. They did not read the Pelican Tech. Brief . They took off the belt and the damn pulley and lost the 4 bolts and nuts So here I am , Mom 5"2" and tiny trying to 1 get the damn pulley lined up non-sym hole-age And get the bolts in possibly wrong size and length and then hte nuts. THen I can start the project the right way ...unless some fabulous person knows how to lock the spindle so I can tutrn the nut and get hte fan out and get to the water p.
I have been trying for three hours!!!!!!!!!!!
August 9, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Take a look at the radiator project - it shows the tool that is required to remove the fan. I don't know of a good way to do it without the tool. As for the bolts, we can order them for you - they are probably a dollar each. Have the boyfriend buy you a burger and fries as repayment for losing them! :) - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
stretch Comments: cheers,
fan housing out, radiator out, no budging it - surely it shouldn't be this hard to to. i've even had 2claw hammers tring to lever it out. i'm puting a lot of force on to it - just woried i'm going to damage something - going to end up smashing it off bit by by bit
July 28, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

Use 2 6mm bolt and tighten them slowly and evenly and the pump will work its way out.
 
stretch Comments: i've just had the same problem as numnut. definatley removed the 4 correct bolts, its going to be deficult to hit out with hammer, as it sits in a recess.

not happy - need ideas!!! and quick
July 27, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's tight if the radiator is not out. Also make sure the fan housing is out - you can't do this with that housing in place (or at least it's very, very difficult). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
lothar Comments: i followed your article step by step like a recipe for a cake and it worked out perfect for me. the only thing is you could have added a little more info on bleeding the air out of the system, and do you have to replace the coolant level indicator?
July 12, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No need to replace the coolant indicator, unless it's not functioning correctly. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
bmwamature Comments: What is a slot screw driver?
June 26, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

A flat headed screw driver
 
numbnut Comments: ive tried the drawing out method with the bolts and my lugs have snapped off tried the mallet and lever and it aint gonna move .just dont know how to get it out now ??my pump sits in a recess any ideas ?
June 23, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Triple-check to make sure that you have all of the bolts out. The water pump is not held in there terribly tight, and a few heavy smacks with a hammer *should* bring it out. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
arcangil Comments: well when i threaded the bolts into my pump, the pump broke on the top : so im going to try the mallet method.
May 2, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Nick at Pelican Parts

The bolts need to be tightened slowly and evenly, using a hammer will also help loosen it up.
 
Jlo15 Comments: My pump would not come loose. I found out that the pump has two threaded lugs on the side of the pump, and all I have to do is tread two M6 bolts minimum 2" long and they will push the pump out. It worked.
April 30, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Great tip. I was not aware of this, thanks for sharing! I typically tap it with a rubber mallet and it comes off, but this would work well for really stuck pumps. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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