Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
Follow Pelican Parts on Facebook Follow Pelican Parts on Twitter Follow Pelican Parts on Instagram Follow Pelican Parts on YouTube Follow Pelican Parts on Pinterest Follow Pelican Parts on Tumblr
  Search our site:    
View Recent Cars  |   Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
 
Get FREE Ground Shipping with the purchase of $75 in qualifying parts!
 


Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Heater Valve
Cleaning/Flushing

Tahir Hussain

Difficulty Level: 4
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

[click to enlarge]

Figure
Figure 1

Figure
Figure 2

Figure
Figure 3

Figure
Figure 4

Figure
Figure 5

This article details the process of valve cleaning/flushing on a BMW E36 320i with climate control and air conditioning.

Symptoms:
No hot air coming through vents inside car although car engine is at normal temperature and there are no air locks etc in cooling system.

After flushing the engine coolant system several times and bleeding it I still had no hot air coming through blowers. This started worrying me as I understand that it could be a number of things… head gasket problem, water pump not working properly, radiator leak, or thermostat etc...

After checking the obvious I gathered that I need help and signed on to Pelican Parts and asked for help.  In my case I had to remove the valves and clean them.

Tools required:
T27 Torx bit, flat head screw driver, WD40, water and hose pipe connected to water supply.

This is how it goes:
This can be a bit messy as in lots of water spillage so be prepared. You don’t have to drain the water out of the system but you can do if you wish.

First of all you need to disconnect the power and the three hoses that go to the valves. The single hose on the underside of the valve housing is for water inlet to the valves and the two hoses on the side of the valve housing are the ones that go to your heater core.
On the firewall of your car you will find three hoses, two inlet and one return.
The return pipe goes back to the engine and continues the water flow. The other two are the feed from the valves and these flow water through the heater core.

To make sure that the heater core isn’t clogged up, remove the hose pipes that connect to the heater core and attach a water hose direct to one of the inlet pipes and flush the heater core. This will remove any build up of rubbish that may have accumulated over time.

We will assume that the heater core is fine and not clogged up so we can move on.

After disconnecting the three hoses attached to the valve unit and disconnecting the power cable you can remove it. To do this you need to hold the unit and twist it upwards. With a little force it should pull out of the rubber that holds it in place

The valve unit has 6 torque splits on the underside, these need to be removed. Once removed carefully pull the valve metal casing away from the housing along with the plastic connecter for the power cables. You need to be very careful when doing this as you don’t want to damage the copper cables that run through the casing from the connector.

After removing the casing you can remove the metal pins along with the springs from the other part of the unit.

With the pins out of the housing you can attach a water hose to the inlet valve on the housing and flush the valve unit. When you are satisfied that it is no longer clogged up you can re-insert the pins not forgetting the springs and put the whole thing back together making sure that you put the hoses back correctly. The valve unit will then need to be clipped back into the rubber that held it in place. This is a bit difficult as the rubber is usually dry (spraying the rubber with wd40 will help).

I would advise you to spray some WD40 inside the unit and a little in the inlets pipe on the valve unit before you put it back together. This will help lubricate the internals and free things up.

Once everything is put back in place top up the water in your radiator as you would have lost some when you disconnected the hoses etc. You may also need to bleed the coolant system although I didn’t need to do this.

    
If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Comments and Suggestions:
Geir,Norway Comments: Hi, I have 318, 2002 model, has mechanical heater / ac.I Only get full hot or full cold when I turn on the selector selector.Can it be water valve?
November 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: More likely a mode door. I would check operation of the blend door. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
simon330d Comments: Im only getting warm air but not hot air from heater???
November 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I answered you under your other question. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
simon330d Comments: My e90 330d is blowing warm air but not nice and hot....any ideas??
November 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The heater valve may be restricted, or the auxiliary coolant pump may be faulty. If your vehicle is equipped with one. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ILIJA Comments: i have 318 tds 1994 ...the cold air its work perfect bath i do not have a HOT AIR INSIDE...the BMW do not have AC..
August 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the heater control valve is working. Check for hot coolant getting to the heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kapps Comments: I have a 330ci e46 2005 model,i want to now where did the small pipe of the plastic vacuum unit which is just under the starter fit in or where did it connect in from the vacuum.
June 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If I remember correctly, all the small vacuum hoses connect at the rear of the intake, near the main plenum. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Wetcoast Comments: Well, as a follow up mechanic replaced the heater control valve and checked signals on my X3 and no change in effect. We are going to check to see if it's again a faulty valve unlikely but if it is not what sends the signal to the valve that could be faulty? I note that CD's in the CD player come out quite hot and the dash gets hot when the fan is on....
June 26, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be the control module or a fuse. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
dan Comments: 2000 323i. I have cool air coming from side vents, and warm air coming from center vent, and hot air from the floor if that vent is turned-on, A/C compressor is turning ON, and heater control valve appears NOT to be blocking coolant. When i use a vise-grip to press closed one of the heater control hoses, i get cold air from center vent. I recently changed the heater control valve with a new part. I also changed the IHKA module with a used one, but yet NO fix. Can you please help?
May 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check that the heater control valve is received a signal to close. Try a test light in place of the valve. When heat is OFF, the light should light. If not, it is not receiving the signal from the IHKA panel. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sam Comments: turned on my AC and it works fine for a short period of time then the drivers side and center vents start blowing hot air while the passenger side continues to blow cold air. problem resets itself when the car is turned off then on again
May 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check the heater control valve. If it is allowing coolant to flow to the heater core, you will have heat when you do not desire it. Check if the heater hoses are hot. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Luke Comments: I have an 95 325is that idles rough when it warms up. When you come to a stop light it will drop to less than five and back to 1k. have to keep foot on gas to not stall. Also does this when you turn on headlights or fan switch to max. Will also die when doing hard turn into parking spot at low speed if you arent careful and keep your foot on the gas. Have been told maybe vacuum leak or ICV needs cleaned.
May 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you checked the charging system? Does it run OK once the RPM us raised? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
dan Comments: I have an 2000 323i, my A/C blows warm air from center vent, hot from defrost, and hot from foot vent. Middle vent wheel is set to 3 blue dots and A/C is turned on, and set to 59 degrees. This car has a new FSU, a new water valve, and new R134a refrigerant professionally evacuated and installed to 1.6 pounds or 1 pound 10 ounces. Can you tell me which part I need?
May 5, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does the system blow cold from any vent? Is the compressor turning on? Is the heater control valve blocking coolant flow when the A/C is ON? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sandy Comments: cannot find heater valve for bmw 325 e90 2005 .checked engine bay no heater valve.
April 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have one, it will be located in the left side of the engine compartment. What are you trying to fix? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
wetcoast Comments: Looking for advice - have a 2005/6 BMW x3 2.5i Canada, my HVAC system is manual - has the upper dashboard dial, no seperate driver/passenger controls.

Problem: Seems like heat is always on. I can adjust the dial on upper dash to control fresh air flow, and adjust the fans, and all the vents work, but at full fan with cold max setting withouth pressing in the a/c button and the windshield defrost button off, temp starts at medium heat and goes up when I lower the fan setting from max. This is particularly noticeable at the defrost vents on the windshield and side windows tested as I set it for mixed windshield and dash vents, and the dash vents were much cooler than the windshield vents . I've yet to check hoses and the filters, was going to go under the car tonight, but my initial suspicion it's the heater control valve with a valve stuck open. Advice what to look for?
April 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would go with your gut and start with the heater control valve. if it is not closing, you will always have hot coolant to the heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Johnny Comments: My 525i has a problem when I drive with the air con on. Cold air is blowing at the passenger side but hot air is blowing on the driver side although both the left and right control's are set for cold.
April 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a low refrigerant charge. I would check system pressure and see if it low. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Puncho Comments: I have a 93 BMW I and replaced a theromastat that's connected to tha air box cause it was corroded but every since I got tha new one my car done start running hot
April 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't know what part you mean. Is the coolant level OK? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Robert Comments: Hi I have a 1997 BMW Z3. 2.8L recently did a cooling system overhaul and I seem to keep getting air in the system. I occasionally have a sweet smell inside the car when starting up. I lifted the car to look for leaks and I have coolant running down the left frame support and dripping out towards the back. So I found the leak but where the heck is it coming from? Its nowhere in the engine compartment.
March 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a faulty heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
yanmar46 Comments: Hello, I have 328i e36 convertible 1998, i have hot air constantly out of the passenger side. Driver side is working very well. even with the power to valves out, I still get hot air. If water valve has a spring is not that always closed? Any suggestion please? do I need to remove the windshield wipers and drain box to remove the valves? Thank you
March 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The heater control valve is located in the engine compartment. Locate the heater core hoses. Then follow them to the valve. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BearNor Comments: Hi, the engine gets hot but no heat inside unless plug to valve is removed,any idea. Signal to valve is changing intermiitent between 12V and 4VDC. and valve does not seem to be stuck. I have an old 1995 E36 320, no A/C and so only one pcs HVC unit, now overhauled and still the same.
March 1, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: have to tried to manually (electrically) hold valve open? It is possible the control head cannot provide current to keep it open. As it sounds like you have good coolant flow and temp. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BearNor Comments: Hi, the engine gets hot but no heat inside unless plug to valve is removed,any idea. Signal to valve is changing intermiitent between 12V and 4VDC. and valve does not seem to be stuck.
February 26, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You didn't mention what vehicle you have. It sounds like the valve is being held in the wrong position. I would run a test and check for fault codes using a BMW scan tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
korosh Comments: Hi,i have 328i 1996 ,i changed the thermostat ,and i bleed the system but the gage is going to red and air cold from heating
February 24, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like air is still trapped in the cooling system. Try to bleed it again. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bibs Comments: hi guys need help, recently changed the Water-housing on e46 330d because of a leak but now the heater is stuck on full heat even though its at 16c,
February 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: FIrst thing, check if the heater control valve is working. It may be stuck open. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Phil49 Comments: Hello, I have an e46 318i touring and am having some heater issues. I only get hot air out of the vents when i am driving at 75mph or above. As soon as the speed drops the heater blows cold. Other points of note: the engine temperature is always perfect and does not changeonce warmed up. I have what appears to be a water leak in the passenger footwell but think this is unrelated. I have bled the engine cooling system and am not losing any water as the level remains spot on.
February 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty or restricted heater control valve or water pump. I would inspect the water pump and if coolant is flowing. Also check if the heater core is receiving sufficient hot coolant from the heater control valve. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Big Mittens Comments: on my 1994 318i convertible I get No air coming from the vents from outside/fresh air. Only when the circulation button is engaged do I get air blowing through all the vents.where should I start to look to find the problem. I recently bled the radiator for air bubbles but still have the same problem.
February 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No air as in air flow or are you missing hot or cold temp change? Could be low coolant flow to the heater core or a blend door issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
6ylinder Comments: I didn 't know that you can get fault codes for a problem such this.

For the problem with the different temperature I described, it 's also a door issue?

And a last one, about the function of the dual zone clima. When I press the AUTO mode the fan speed is compute by the clima itself. If for example I raise only the driver 's side temperature, the fan speed increase automatically. If I raise only the passenger 's side temperature, the fan speed stays the same. It doesn 't increase its speed.
February 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If a system has a control module, there is likely fault tolerance. Checking for these codes is a good place to start.

I would address one issue. Attempting to advise you on diagnosing two would be tough. Go for the dual zone issue, check for faults, run a test on the mode doors. You may find the solution to both issues in the same place. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
6ylinder Comments: Update:
I set the driver 's temp to 16 deg, passengers 's temp to 32 with A/C on and the air coming from the windshield. Well it worked, from driver 's side was coming cold air and from passenger hot.
But when I change the vents from the windshield to the middle face, from both driver 's and passenger 's side was coming cold air...
February 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
6ylinder Comments: Hello!
I have 2 problems on my E36 318is 97' with Automatic Dual Zone Clima.

1 When I set hot air coming from the legs, the air from the passenger side is not hot. Is just warm to cold I would say...The driver side is working fine.

2 The passenger temperature at the climate panel, does not make any change to the temperature of the air coming out off the passenger 's side. All the vents have the same air temperature coming out, which is the driver 's side temperature. The passenger 's side adjustment doesn 't do anything...
February 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is it the passenger side vent or a center vent? This could be a mode door issue. Can you check the vehicle for fault codes? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Josh Comments: I have an issue where the defrost only kicks hot air out the drivers side. Passenger side has nothing. All 4 face vents also are not blowing any hot air. Will this fix that?
January 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a problem with the mode or blend doors. You didn't mention what vehicle you have, but checking for fault codes is a good place to start. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Weewheels24 Comments: Hi , e36 3.0 m3 euro , no heat at all from vents , also the temperature gauge is at the bottom of blue , not working all blow ok 1234 every direction, water pump was replaced not long ago , tested thermostat in boiling water and is opening ok , coolant been changed , heater control valve can be heard opening and closing when being turned hot to cold , top radiator hose hot bottom one cold or Luke warm at best , and one hose hot to heater valve 2 cold , this is a self bleeding system I think so what do you think? Heater core? Directional flaps? And a temperature sensor? I also done a dial instrument test and needles are fine too . Mt head is fried with this car and this is only one of the problems
January 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a thermostat that is opening to soon. That does sound like what is going on. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Andy Murillo Comments: i own a 1999 bmw 540i and my heater is not working and my needle for my engine temp goes from the middle and then moves towards the red zone and back to the center. what can i do to fix this.
January 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check that the coolant level is Ok and there is no air trapped in the system. Once you do that, check the thermostat and water pump.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
AsiaBMW Comments: hello,i have 320i e46 bmw with air cond problem,once it cold out side it cut down my air cond compressor,i need cold air cond here in my country.is it related with AUC sensor and i cannot find it.
January 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it is cold out, the climate control may be limiting the temp. I would check the evap temp sensor using a BMW scan tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
John Comments: My '92 325is only blows hot air when driving or at a high idle. As soon as I stop, nothing but cold air.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
January 5, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The coolant pump could be faulty or there could be a restriction in the heater core. When the heater malfunctions, check if hot coolant is entering the heater core via the heater hoses. If it is, the heater core may be restricted. If it isn't, check the heater vale and coolant pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
david Comments: 1993 325i m50and one more thing i forgot, passenger front floorboard sometimes wet and the rear behind driver wet too
December 31, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This does sound like a faulty heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
david Comments: I have 1993 M50 325i, that has a slow mystery coolant leak, no visible leaks anywhere, so a couple weeks ago i replaced most if not all the cooling system, water pump, rad, etc, but it still takes coolant, every 60-70 miles it goes from the KALT/COLD line to close to the bottom of the reservoir tank, only other thing it does is smells like coolant from the vents for a short time then goes away, heat works good,ive heard it could be leaking somewhere i cant see on something hot and evaporating it and causing smell, or a heater core leak? any ideas, thanks
December 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you smell coolant, the heater core may be faulty. Pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks inside the vehicle or at the hvac drain. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Marco Ugolini Comments: Hi there, I have a bmw 325i sedan 1993, I notice that the air conditioner is running normal, but the hot air does not work, this is a problem known from the hot air valve?, what should I do?, can I solve this problem If I remove this valve and clean it?
December 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Turn heat to full hot with blower on high. Check if hot coolant is entering and leaving the valve, if not it may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jpheymans Comments: Hi, I have an issue with the part where you plug the hoses, the one that goes into the firewall, as one of the plugs for the hoses is broken. Do you have that part or know who may? Is it hard to replace, being so that I already have the admission removed? and lastly, does it have a spceific name that I can google for? I have no idea what it is called :P
December 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share a photo? It sounds like you are referring to the meater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mo Comments: Hi All,

I need some advice for my 1995 Bmw E34 540i V8 and hope someone can help me as I have been given different opinions and need a reliable source to lead me in the right direction.

My 540i used to be perfect until about 2/3 weeks ago where I started to notice my heater playing up. It took ages for it to blow out hot or warm air through the vents. I checked the coolant level and all is fine and well. No loss of water or coolant. now its got to a stage where it only blows out cold air. I have tried tapping the heater valve but didn't help until out of frustration, I hit the highway and put my FOOT DOWN and what do I feel blowing against my face... hot air through the vent ! I was pleased but as soon as I stopped, the air went ice cold again. the temp needle has always stayed between the 1/4 or middle and never above.

I have had someone tell me to buy a new heater valve , a thermostat, a new heater hedgehog etc. and to be honest, before I spend a penny, I want to be led in the right direction as I have learnt from my previous mistakes and just fired into everything in my old E34 without thinking twice and spent a lot of £££...

can anyone please give me some advice as to what's happening here... it will be greatly appreciated.

Kindest Regards and Seasons Greetings.
December 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This does sound like a low coolant flow problem. You can check the temp of the coolant going into and out of the heater valve. if it cools off going out, with the heater on, this would indicate a faulty valve.

You could also have a restricted heater core or a faulty water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
beamer Comments: Will a heater core valve from a 95 BMW 318 work in a 96 BMW 328i?
December 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not as far as I can tell from the part numbers. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
GDJ Comments: Hello! I just want a second opinion on a issue that i'm working on.

-1998 BMW 318i, 301,000 km on the odometer. Recently had issues with the cooling system.

1 Slow warmup, engine temperature is alright around the city streets under 70 km/hr but temperature drops quickly when travelling at highway speeds 100 to 120 km/hr. Thinking thermostat is the issue.
2 Overheated at idle, parked at the time. Main cooling fan electric is not turning on. Checked relay ok. Have not had the opportunity to check the temperature sensor on engine block located under injector #1, Haven't checked fuse #48the one under the dash/steering column yet, but will ASAP.
Coolant refilled and system bled of air. Heat is normal out the interior vents.
Apart from the fan itself, anything else I should be looking at?
December 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thermostat and cooling fan switch circuit have to be your first priority. Also consider the possibility that the radiator is partially clogged. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Columbus Comments: I have a 96 323i and I am having a overheating problem and it only blows cold air. I have changed the thermostat and water pump. Some say it could be a blown head gasket or heater control valve. Your help will surely be appreciated. Thanks
December 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Has the cooling system been bled correctly? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
val Comments: Bled the system many times before.so that's not the case .could it be a clogged heater core?
December 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: To test the heater core, you can remove the inlet and outlet heater core hose and run a hose to one, watching the other to see if water flows freely. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tony Comments: i have a bmw 323i e36 97, when you put heated front screen on the air comes out hot, when you switch to climate control and set it to 32 cool air not warm comes out of the dash vents......help needed please.
December 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I do not understand this question. What is the problem with turning on the AC and having cold air come out of the vents? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Val Comments: I have a 1996 328is,i installed a new heater vale also replaced radiator, water pump, and at idle it will blow cold air .I will only get hot air if I rev the engine above 2000 rpm.
December 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It sounds like you have to bleed the cooling system more thoroughly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
scott_rogers Comments: Hi, my 1999 328IS has intermittent heating issues. 60% of the time the car has heat and works just fine. But 40% of the time the heat just appears to stop after the engine is up to temp and the interior will get cold. Do you think this is a symptom of the heater control valve getting stuck? Wondering what to test next. Thanks!
November 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If your engine temp remains normal, but heats cools off, yes. If hot coolant stops flowing to the heater core due to a valve problem, the air will cool off. I would check if hot coolant is getting into the heater core when the problem is present. You can do this by monitoring the temp of the hoses at the heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Phil Comments: HI,

I have a BMW e36 325i, I have just remove the intake manifold and got my hands on the heater control valve an the hoses. I am changing all 3 hoses going to the heater control valve. When I tried to clean up the heater control valve i notice one of the copper wire is corroded and broken and the rubber in the valve is all but diintegrated. Do you guy sell the rubber parts for the heater control valve? I read that there is a repair kit for that. and also it it easy for me to fix the brokern copper wire. What is the size/gauge of the copper wire?

Thanks for you help.
November 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You're going to need a new valve. it is located here:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_VENTht_pg2.htm#item6 - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Bernie Comments: Prior question on heat BMW Z-3 The year 1997
November 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Okay I'll look into it - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Bernie Comments: BMW Z-3 heat is fine while moving stop at a light etc. no heat fan is still running?
November 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unplug the electric valve and it should move to full heat. Otherwise you have a problem water pump or auxiliary coolant pump if you have one. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
willyb Comments: OK, found the heater valve right where you said it was . Never doubted you. Cannot get it off the mount. Rubber round bushing on the top slides off easy. bottom rubber mount does not. Should i be removing the metal bracket it is attached to ?
November 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes remove the metal bracket the rubber is there to insulate it from vibration - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
willyb Comments: Where is the heater control valve located on a 2001 Z3 3.0 ?
November 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is mounted on the driver side of the firewall. Or on the left strut tower. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Michael Comments: i have a 1995 325i, the auto temp seems to work, but when i turn the blower on i get cold "ish" air out of the vents. I can also hear a noise in the front of back of the engine air that sounds like something trying to move, then stops, then again 10 seconds ? later. could this be my heater valve trying to operate?
November 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like it could be the blend door having a problem. The heater valve doesn't make any noise, none that you would hear in the cabin. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
charlieracer Comments: i have a 2001 bmw 325i change thermostat 3 times water pump 2 has a new radiator and clutch fan all new hoses .. not getting any heat . disconnect the heater control valve plug and still .. i blew out the 2 lines and one goes to the expansion vavle through the radiator and the other had a little stuff in it and cannot get no water through it could it be that side is clogged after, that work for a day got some heat then went back to cold ..how can i flush out this side can i put something in it to flush it out, thanks for the help ..
November 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check the hard plastic heater line under the intake, sometimes they can get clogged. If they are replace the lines.
You are going to have to remove the intake to remove the two lines.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mike Comments: Cannot unplug it while pressing against both sides of the plug. Any suggestions? Also I bought a used heater valve that seems to have broken rubber seals. I am guessing it is bad and it cannot be repaired.
November 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The connector may be dirty. Locate the release tab, then slide a small pick into the bottom of the connector to release the tab. Once released, pull the connector off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Matt Comments: Hi

I just removed my heater valve because I was not blowing hot air.

When I removed the unit and looked at the opening where the two hose attached it appears that there is a rubber seal or something in side the unit.

When I dismantled the unit per the instructions I could not remove the pins. SO the whole unit came apart and i proceeded to remove the rubber except for where it appears to seal at the seat. will this cause any problems?
October 31, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would put it all back together and check the function of the valve, if it can move free you should be ok.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mike Comments: How do you access the heater control valve on a e36 m3? Cannot seem to get to it. Does the manifold come out or throttle body etc? Plz advise thanks
October 27, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You don't have to remove the manifold, it is tucked behind it. It is a tight spot, but workable.

See attached photo from the tech article.- Nick at Pelican Parts
Nand Comments: Can i get a diy on the blend door change out? I wanna know if i can do it before i order it from you.
October 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If we have a chance to perform the repair we will be sure to document the process. If replacing the blend door, I believe the heater housing has to be removed, which means removing the dashboard.


I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to share some insight.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Nand Comments: Where is the blend door located at on the e36 m3? Does the glove box unit and vent unit above it come out to access it?
October 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have to remove the dash to access the heater box. That is where the blend door is.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Nand Comments: I have a e36 m3 and warm air not hot blows from driver side when on full heat and cold air from vents in passenger side . Is it the heater core?
October 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be the blend door. Check that there is hot coolant entering the hose at the heater core and warm coolant exiting the heater core at the hose. If the heater core has good coolant flow, it may be a blend door issue.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
diva_3181377 Comments: How exactly this one works? While changing the leaking hoses, i tested it. Without any power applied, it is a pass through and with 12V applied, it blocks the coolant flow via it. So the hot coolant from engine goes to heater core and comes back to this. If it is open, it will go back to expansion tank and otherwise it will stay there. I guess except when the temperature knob is at hot area, this valve is closed?
September 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It does this to keep hot coolant out of the heater/ac box when the ac is on, so it can function better.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Kheng Comments: The Heater Valve has 2 hoses...can i clamp any to avoid coolant getting into the heater core?
August 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I apologize. I misread your questions. I would advise against doing that. Over time the hose will wear and could explode. Replacing the valve is your best bet. You coulremove the valve and plug the lines. Insert something slightly larger than the hose ID, then clamp it. You will have no heat if this is done correctly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Kheng Comments: Hi, if i clamp my heater valve hose, will it affect the engine in any way. i dont need heat at all as i live in a tropical country and the valve is stuck open. Please advice.
August 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would advise against doing that. Over time the hose will wear and could explode. Replacing the valve is your best bet. You coulremove the valve and plug the lines. Insert something slightly larger than the hose ID, then clamp it. You will have no heat if this is done correctly. - Nick at Pelican Parts - Nick at Pelican Parts  
diva_3181377 Comments: When the AC is on, it seems it is leaking coolant towards the middle of the engine. 20 miles of driving, coolant level reduced like 1/2" on the red stick in the expansion valve. Is this the heater core leak? Also it have a smell when the ac on. I cant distinguish if it is R134a or coolant. When i did the ac repair, checked the evaporator and there was no leak and also did the vacuum check on system. Also the R134a the pressure is still same, assuming no leak. So it is the leaking coolant making this smell? Car is 2000 Z3 2.3. If the heater core leaks, will it leak via ac drain?
August 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes it will leak out of the drain when the coolant level is overflowing in the HVAC housing - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Welshy uk Comments: High I have a bmw 520i on a 51plate problem is when I have a/c on it blows out the back vents nothing out the front vents any ideas what problem could be many thanks welshy uk
August 8, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't understand what a 51plate problem is and I need to know if you have a manual IHKS(R) or an automatic IHKA. In the USA we usually get the IHKA models with the manual systems being specially ordered. Do you have the front vent registers open? If you have an IHKA system you may have a bad mode door motor, if you have a manual system you may have a broken cable - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Russ Comments: my gf has a 323 on a 97 and keeps over heating and no hot air from heater have replaced thermostat still same have tried bleeding but bleed screw is broken!! is it worth bleeding agin if so how do u suggest?
July 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Find the highest point of the cooling system and open it. Air should rise to the top and get trapped there. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Kheng Comments: I have a 2003 e46 bmw. My ac blows hot even when the setting is at 16. I play with the ac snow flake button by turning it on off i might start getting cold air and will work ok till I switch off my car. My ac compressor is brand new. Cud it be my heater valve allowing hot coolant? Problems started when i used those bottled liquid cylinder head gasket repair as coolant was mixing with oil.
July 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the ac lines are getting cold under the hood with the engine running and the ac on. If yes then use a clamp to block off the heater lines and see if you get cold air. That stuff may have stuck open your heater valve - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
chgrec Comments: Is it normal to have no heat when stopped at a light? My 98 M roadster did the same thing that my 98 323 conv does...I am replacing my entire cooling system hoses, belts, pump & radiator and figured I'd clean the valve while I am taking it all apart. Just wanted to know if I should expect any different behavior once done. Thanks
July 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A stuck open thermostat can cause the same symptoms so don't forget to replace that as well. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
325Baby Comments: Pelican, I have a '95 325i with 185K miles. Heater works good for about 15-20 minutes, then cool air. Engine temp normal.
What could this be?
Thanks!
July 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a restricted heater core or a faulty heater control valve. Check the temp of the coolant flowing in and out of the heater core. Check that the heater core is getting a supply of hot engine coolant. if it isn't, it could be the heater control valve. If it is, suspect a restricted heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nicko Comments: Mine also was blowing hotter on the passengers side and cold on the drivers side after the Freon. I opened the hood and wiggled the wires around on behind the glove box and it started working immediately ! It was broken for about one year !
July 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
will Comments: e36 320i sedan - only blows hot air when on front demister or on the feet. could this be the same as http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Valve-Cleaning/E36-Valve-Cleaning.htm

July 10, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The duo valve only controls the amount of coolant into the engine for heat. If air is not coming out of your facia vent that sounds like a mode door problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
alan Comments: Follow up: the ac fan works maybe 10% of the time in any speed
Also noticed that the auxilary Ac fan0 the one in frront of the radiator is not working at all
Took it to a mechanic last week and he says the actual Blower is shot and the Ac Aux fan burnt out.So its being replaced as i write this /will follow up hopefully with good results -need the AC to work since the heat is coming now
April 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
alan Comments: My 98 M3 e36 had the climate unit repaired and installed new final stage unit,which after a week when all was pefect HVAc controls stoped working again .However my HVAC control lights are on - I get nothing - no air blowing through hot cold etc.I live in South Florida - never have used the heater in 12 years- maybe ionce or twice - Ac used alot of the time .Sent the HVAc back to person who repaired it and told me its all fine /as good as new
he suspects its the heater valce control.
I also noticed when the outside tempurature is under 80, then HVAC working,other wise if oveer 81 degress outside it not working or will take up to 10 minutes to start working correctly until I turn off car again
When the HVac blows - all functions fresh air/ac/defrost
work over the 82 degress however sometimes it just ramdomly
working regardless of outside temps? What do you think?
February 27, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What exactly stops working? The control panel, blower? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Baldie Comments: E36 316 1997
Hi Wayne, just replaced the water pump on the car as it had seized to the bore, anyways thats done now,thought it might of cleared the problem with no heat getting into the car, put still have no heat, trying to get to the hoses leading to the heater matix and the control valve, there is such limited space between the bulk head, is there another way of getting to the hoses elsewhere?, if i am making sense
cheers
Iain
February 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You're just going to have squeeze in there to access the hoses. No other way around it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ali Comments: Hello wayne
I recently bought a bmw 318I 1993 I have an overheat probleme I always have to bleed the systeme I can't find any leaks,the coolant level in the expansion tank is always at the right level but when I bleed the systeme I find air in it I have changer radiator water pump when I got it I have no hot air blown inside I'm suspecting maybe the heater is leaking but no signs of water inside the car neither dripping can you plz advise
February 15, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I suggest pressure testing the cooling system. This will be the sure fire way to find the source of your problem. It is possible you have a faulty head gasket. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Renegade Comments: I own a 1996 323i..everytime I drive the car the heater turns itself on and off spasmodically - hence I have no control of the heating system.
Also the drivers window button will not open the window, and button feels different than other three when operated.
Thirdly I have had the rear tail light replaced, now the console says ' rear light failure '
Whats going on ? and are all these faults an easy fix ? HELP.
February 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: All likely separate problems.

The rear light message could be due to the incorrect bulb.

The heater could be due to the control panel or blower resistor.

The window could be a button or regulator issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Divaone Comments: Hi, I have a 1999, 318i bmw....the trouble is that I can feel that the dashboard is warm and it seems like the heating is coming through but even when the heat is put on the highest level it is not coming through and the car is very cold.......what do you think it could be.
February 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It sounds like the flapper valves behind the dashboard are not functioning properly. These are the flaps that direct air onto the windshield through the front of the dash or down below where your feet are. This is a difficult problem to fix, you need to take apart your dashboard and see if the valve are sticking. In rare cases you can stick a screwdriver down the vent and poke at the valve and dislodge it if it's stuck. You might also be able to use the snake to extend down your vent and poke the valve as well. The fact that your dashboard is getting hot leads me to believe that you are getting heat to the valve but the valve is closed and/or directing hot air elsewhere. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Lefty 740 Comments: I have a 1998 740il BMW, I have heat coming frm the passenger side of the car and cold air from the driver side. Don't know what to do, please help with suggestions!!!
January 5, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Either your 2 blend doors are broken or if the vehicle has electric climate control they could be our of alignment. You can try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and see if they realign when you reconnect it but this usually require the BMW factory tool or equivalent. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
trevor Comments: Hello i have a 520i s reg the heating has two controls one for pasenger one for driver ? some times the heater on driver side blows cold then the car over heats ? so i stop the car for 5 mins then it seams to be ok for days please can you help me
December 28, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you have air in your cooling system. You have to open the bleed scree by the radiator and let the air out. Once coolant flows out close the bleed screw. Be careful because you have to do this with the engine hot. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
amazon12001 Comments: Have a 1996 318i,after having the thermostat and water pump replaced with new ones my heating still doesnt blow hot,any ideas please as FAR too cold to go without heating in this weather and am desperate to get this car back on the road
December 18, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unplugging the duo valve electrical connection should get it to go full open which means max heat. Are all three coolant hoses getting hot like this? Try not to burn yourself when you check the temperature of the coolant hoses - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Liquidsunshine Comments: I suggest using coolant rather than WD40 for lubricant during the repair. WD40 does nasty things to some plastics and rubbers. Coolant is very slippery and intended for this service.
December 16, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tip for our readers - Nick at Pelican Parts  
DanaT Comments: I have a 2002 325i wagon with an intermittent heat problem. When running a few short errands thus turning the car on and off within 5+ minute intervals, very high heat will come on and stay on even if the A/C is on. Nothing stops the heat meaning lowering the temp, shutting the car off/on, no control adjustments. Once the car has sat for the night, it's fine the next day. Dealer shop has tried to replicate the problem and can't. They have said possibilities will be a very expensive fix of over $1000. I don't want to gamble until the problem is identified. Could it be the heater valve?
November 20, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The duo valve can get stuck open and deliver hot coolant to the heater core. Try cleaning the valve - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Saj m3 evo Comments: I have another problem my heaters dont work jus chucks out cold air and dusnt warm up at all even when the temp is up need help plzzits freezing
November 3, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unplug the duo valve and see if the heat returns. Are the three hoses getting hot with the engine temperature?> - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Saj m3 evo Comments: I have a e36 m3 and its missing quiet bad in 1st gear well any gear between 1000rpm and 3000rpm and when its missing its makes a bubbly sound. What can it be need help asap.
November 3, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like it might be overheating? In second gear the car runs fine? Maybe it's your fuel pump - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Martin Comments: Hi there I have a 98 bmw e36.my problem is my a/c dosent get cold,which I have been having this problem for a while.But now I'm getting hot air coming under the dash.And man it is so hot in there.Can someone please tell me what should I do.
November 2, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try cleaning your heater valves as they are probably stuck open giving full heat all the time - Nick at Pelican Parts  
harry Comments: I have a BMW 3 series e90 2007, my problem is the heating of the cabin, the driver's side dont work but the passenger side air is always hot. when I turn the air conditioning and cold I select to work well on both sides, only on heating is not.
I think it is the heater valve. I ask for your help. much obliged
October 29, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes you probably have a stuck duo valve. One side is working the other side is stuck closed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Foggypants Comments: I've got a 1999 323i UK car. This is the closest I've come to a possible solution but the symptoms are slightly different. I get no heat from the start, temp fine on the needle, no over heating. I get a gentle 'breeze' of cold air. However, if I whack the temp right to 32 degrees, the hot air pumps through. 31.5 and it's still cold. knock the temp down and it's fine for a while, maybe 5/10/15 mins but returns to cold. I did have overheating a couple of years ago which was fixed with a new rad cap and have since replaced the whole rad, it didn't blow a head gasket and has only ever had this heater issue since. I'm 100% sure it's bled through.
August 29, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If engine temp is fine your head gasket is okay. Check the coolant level and you probably have a stuck open or closed heater valve. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Drazan6 Comments: 2002 318 My heater's stuck on hot, though A/C still works. Any suggestions?
July 9, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your heater valve may be stuck open. Try clamping the inlet hose at heater core. If temperature in cabin drops, the valve is stuck open. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
thriston Comments: can someone please help me i have a 1997 e 36 323i
about a year ago a ran out of gas cruising the car to the furthest point possible to the nearest gas station where it eventually died. bought a few liters gas put in and car started up as normal on my way home i notice a miss on the car parked it in the drive way.the next morning when i tried to start it back up it just crank and crank. i changed the fuel filter new spark plugs tested fuel pump its working good fuel spraying through injectors and have spark untill today the car has not start yet i had a diagnostic test done, dont pick up any faults had mechanic over a few times no can tell me what the problem is the only different thing i notice while cranking is a knocking or glogged sound coming from bottom driver side not sure if its by exhaust or motor it self. if any can assist any thought will be appreciated went thought many pelican blogs and write ups but no seem to have the same issue?
July 4, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have fuel and spark, check vehicle compression. If compression is good, you could have a backpressure issue. If the exhaust is plugged the engine will not start. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Paulson Comments: Hello, have a 1998 BMW 728, put new thermostat on, bled system of any air, fan works well, no overheating, needle always stays in middle position,

but no heat at all in cabin? is it valve problem? any way to test it? any help or comments would be much appreciated, also my email is luap37@btinternet.com Thanks
April 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Follow the smaller cooling hoses towards the firewall. Eventually you will see a heater valve. Unplug the valve, they default to full open when unplugged. At this point you should get full heat. See if both sides of the hoses are getting hot.- Kerry at Pelican Parts  
berbes Comments: my problem is, alot of heat coming out of the footwell areas when i don't want it to. no leaks anywhere. can this be caused by a sticky heat valve too?
March 19, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No leaks from where? You may have a bad footwell actuator in you HVAC box. You might be able to see it if you remove some lower panels under the dash board - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Rich Comments: Hi there heres my problem.. i drive a 96 318ti. it had overheated and owner replaced thermostat and water pump as well as new radiator. but no heat. i checkec the heater core its not leaking and both pipes are cold. it seems like the both the inlet and outlet hoses into the heater valve are cold. unless i run the car for about 15 mintues then well everything gets hot. the car doesnt overheat and has no coolant leaks and ive tried bleeding it. i checked the bowden cable behind the heater knob nd everything is intact. the outlet hose from the waterpump is hot n i believe its the house that circles the block into the heater valve...any answers will be very appreciated guys
February 27, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you car warms up after 15 minutes and provides heat are you expecting do you expect to get heat while the car is warming up. If the thermostat is closed (when the car is cold) you will not get hot coolant to the heater hoses. Just a thought. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
John318 Comments: Hey there! I have a 96 318i and a few things electronic fudged up at the same time. The Climate control/heater will make a creaky, loud echoing sound when the car is turned on. Once I get going the unit will go on after a few minutes and work normally. My lock on the driver door the plunger thing will go up and down but there is no resistance/click and it springs back up. I can only lock from the outside. also my sub or amp isn't working. I had my glass replaced on my driver side window. But had it checked and I'm wondering why all those electronics just cut out like that.
February 16, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: First check all you fuses. Second check the wiring in the door jab and see if any are broken. Third the driver's side door latch sounds like it thinks the door is open so it won't let the door stay locked. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
kawasaki mick Comments: hi i have a 1994 320 convertible m50 6 pot ,having problems with heater an cooling system firstly heater is lovely an hot wilst driving then after 5 mins of parked runining on tick over stone cold air from vents but whats concerning me is after 30mins driving the bottom rad hose is cold stone cold engine temp normal,the top rad hose is hot very hot ,an it is a son of a ***ch to bleed 3 days hundreds a lts a water help
February 11, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like your thermostat is stuck closed. It doesn't explain everything but it could also be a water pump. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
jc Comments: I have had same problem with no hot air. Will try and replace heater valve too. Why does expansion tank fill with only 2 gallons of coolant? Doesn't the coolant capacity take more than that. I have an '04 BMW 745Li.
January 23, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unplug the heater valve and it should default to full open and therefore full heat. Sounds like you may have to bleed the cooling system after refilling - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Garethd2904 Comments: hi
i currently own a 96 318is e36
im suffering with the heaters, really become a pain in the winter that there is basically zero heat i will get a blast of warm air for about 15 seconds at motorway speeds then that is it the temperature sits fine on the guage and the pipes going to the heater control valve air boiling i have flushed the heater core and cooling system about 10-15 times my thought is obviously the heater control valve but why am i getting a blast of hot air sometimes then nothing? really would appreciate your reply as this is getting to me now thanks :
January 1, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, it could be a control unit issue, or it could be the valve itself. I would see if you could test the heater valve by applying 12 volts to it directly to see if it opens. You can also check the electrical connections by disconnecting the wires and checking them too when the control unit is supposed to be opening the valve. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
neeyo Comments: I have a 95 BMW 325is..needs new heater core. Its leaked allover my drivers side floor and my windows area all foggy. How do I find the dash frame support rail?
RE: Maui Paul Comments: Heater Core replacement/ '94 325is production date 11/93
You DO NOT have to remove the dash to replace a leaking core. Every dealer I called and several INdy shops are all Wrong!! There is only one torx screw of 7 that is impossible to access and apparently lead to the remove the dash conclusion. Here is the trick. Simply drill an access hole through the dash frame member support rail. This rail is about 3 inches wide and your access hole is only ~ 3/8 of an inch having absolutely no effect on this support member and saving you countless hours of work. Having just completed this job its really not too bad approached with intelligence and patience. I took lots of pics and may get inspired to do a write up since there is no good information on any of the BMW newsgroups...
December 15, 2009

December 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sure, if you want to send us the pics, we can place them on the site too... - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
kenai Comments: I heat coming from the dash but no air is blowing on my feet. Is this a prblem with the vents? If so how do I fix it?
December 14, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure what type of vehicle you have. If you are operating the mode control knob and air direction is not changing there could be a faulty mode door motor or control head.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mooch Comments: Hi there, I have a 1997 323i se e36 bmw. the problem i have is after the car has been started then turned off, the heater fan stays on low. then if you disconnect the battery it stops. then if you reconnect the battery it's o.k. any idears?
December 11, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't have that model here inthe US, but thwe circuit for the blower may be the same. The blower resistor if fed power via the blower motor relay. If the relay is stuck on, the resistor may get power at all times, causing the blower to stay on. I would start by checking operation of the blower motor relay. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
vicious91 Comments: I have a 1995 325i my old heater control valve was no good. It was clogged with the rubber seals from inside all ripped into pices. So I cleaned it out and I had heat all the time that I would turn on my air cuz it no longer had the seals. I changed it out for another valve from a 1998 318i I checked that both valves open and close before puttin it on. Everything was good their so I put it on and now I only get warm almost cold air from all vents. Please help what can be the problem?
December 10, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: First check that your coolant level is correct and thereis no air trapped in your system. Then confirm that the engine is reaching operating temp and the thermostat is working. If the thermostat is working and the coolant level is correct, there could be a restriction in the heater core or poor flow from the water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Capt. LowRez Comments: I have a 1993 BMW 325i E36 with a 95 motor in it. The heater doesnt blow hot air anymore at all and my car temp starts to go up if I sit at a light for more than a minute or if Im driving on normal city roads. However if I rev my car to 3,000 rpm, the car temp goes back down to normal and my heater starts working again. Im not sure if it is either my heater core or thermostat or possibly both.
December 3, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds to me like poor coolant flow. Check thatthe thermostat warms the engine up, then opens. The outlet hose at the thermostat should be cooler then warm up once the thermostat opens. If it opens, check that there is a steady stream of coolant out of the bleeder hole in reservoir. If there isn't there could be air in the system or the water pump may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Steve Comments: I have a permanent 12v dc on the AC Control valve, even after the car was switched off for 4 hours, which draws my battery flat over time?
Any solutions? BMW X 3 2005 2L Diesel
November 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't have your vehicle here in the US, but I will try to answer your questions using what I know about similar models. The HVAC control module may be faulty and not going to sleep. You will want to pinpoint the draw to this module, if it is infact staying on, check that it is not receiving KL15 at all times. If it is not, the module itself may be faulty.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
jonms73 Comments: Hi
I wonder if you can help me with a problem with my BMW 728i 1996.
when the heater is on i get hot air from drivers side vent and drivers side center vent but cold air from the passenger side.
this is the same regardless of where the position selector is.
very strange only happened after i rplaced a ruptured expansion tank.
any of you have an idea of what the problem is
October 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check that there is not air trapped inthe system and the coolant level is correct. Low coolant could create a poor flow situation in the heater core, causing the coolant to cool off too soon. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
teebeema Comments: Hi Wayne!
I have a 95' 750 il and lately i have noticed this clicking noise from the engine. Turned out it is coming from the climate heater valves. Giving me constant sounds like on and off but it does not happens every time. Just sometimes. other thing is i found my fuel tank leaking... Do you have any suggestion on that one?
Few electrical issues as well, mostly my fuel level does not accurate . After fill up it shows around 60 liters,but goes down to 0 ,light comes up etc. Look empty. Next day it does show about 45 liters again. Annoying right? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
September 18, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Are you saying your fuel tank has an external leak? If one side of the tank is leaking, the fuel level will display incorrect until the siphon can fill that side back up. Repair the external leak and the problem should go away.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
DK Comments: Hi guys, have a question and a problem. During the winter months - my hvac unit in my 2009 328xi coupe only blows cold air at highway speeds. It blows warm/hot air at idle or slow driving speeds. Dealer can not figure this out and have dealt with a cold car for 2 years now in the winter. Thermostat replaced last year. Could it be the heater valve monovalve? The AC works fine in the summer. Help. Suggestions?
July 23, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: E90 models do not use a monovalve. This could be either low coolant, a faulty thermostat, poor coolant flow or a restricted heater core. Start by checking the coolant level and flow. If the heater core is getting good flow of hot coolant, it may be restricted. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BMWNZ Comments: hey i have a 92 325i e36 and recently the heat pipe that connects the solenoid bank to the fire wall broke off and i need to know how to remove pipes from inside the dashthe ones that connect to the heater unit from the plastic piece that is on the fire wall i have some access to pipes from behind glove box but i cant remove it i assume there is a bolt or clip locking them in place PLEASE HELP me thanks jayden
July 15, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like the heater core has been damaged. You will have to replace it. It is serviced from inside the vehicle on the driver side. Once the hoses and studs are remvoed from the engine compartment side, you remove the knee bolster and trim panels on the driver side of dashboard. Then remove the cover and slide the heater core out. This is going by memory so I apologize if I missed step. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
WAYNE Comments: WHY IS MY E39 BLOWING HOT AIR ON ONE SIDE
July 11, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have low coolant or a malfunctioning blend door. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
emizz Comments: How does voltage changes when temperature is turned form min to max?
On min its 12V, but how does it changes and how much it should be on max position?

My multimeter shows 7v on both valves, but shouldnt there be 0V?
June 30, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The heater valve gets battery volts from the heater control panel. The climate controlmodule controls the ground side of the valve. When heat is selected, you will have battery volts for the valve, then the a ground controlled signal from the climate control module. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
immortal Comments: i have bmw e36 320i 1993, my bmw is become heat after turn on the car the i switch off the ac the temp is become normally the affer 5mins i switch on the ac the temp still normal so, what the problem
June 14, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your heater control valve could be stuck open. Giving you heat until you cycle it, then it clsoes allowing the a/c to function. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BUTCH GOMEZ Comments: Hey Yall, I have a 325I..The heater stays on when I turn on the ac,,Not blowing cold...Could the water valve cause this...Please help
May 12, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes. Your heater control valve could be stuck open. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ALex Comments: I have a 1997 318i, overheats when driving on local roadsUnder 50mph . Its fine at highway speedsover50mph . When it gets close to red zone, I hold accelerator to 3RPM so temp starts to go down. It has new OEM water pump, new radiator and i also removed the thermostat. I flushed heater core. Do you think its the head gasket?
April 25, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have poor airflow over the raditor or low coolant flow from the water pump. It wouldn't hurt to pressure test the cooling system. However, if it was the headgasket, it would be more prone to overheat at higher loads. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
beemeboy Comments: Very helpful post Wayne, this is my experience.I did it on my E36 M50 6 cylinder. It´s not easy at all, but removing the air filter housing, the flowmeter and the hose to the butterfly valve is OK. Don´t forget to disconnect -terminal of the battery, otherwise the ECU will flash errors. Unplug also the TPS. In this way, you can manage with both hands, one below the intake manifold and the other from up. I unscrewed the three hoses from the valve itself. The valve was full of rubber debries, completely plugged!. I opened it fully, washed it and remake the rubber gaskets. Also sand grinded with very fine sand paper the valve cones, the plungers with the springs. Applicate lubricate to run smoothly. Unfortunately, what was remarked happened . THe small copper wires are very fragile and they broke in 3 different parts! But don´t panic: using a small tin soldering gun you can repair the mess. Don´t forget to sand the wires, because they are covered with isolating coating; if you don´t do it, tin soldering doesnt adhere. then, you have to isolate again in order to avoid shorts with the metallic carcase. This can be done applying a thin layer of a hot melt. Before installing, check the proper functioning: apply ground to terminal 2 and 3 alternatively while applying +12volts to terminal 1; through the port you can see the valve actuating, also an audible "click" is a sign that it is free from jamming. I put it again in place, purge the system, and voilá! the heating system is working again fully. With a little patience, $250 remained in my pocket. Hope these tips are useful for someone
April 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BimmerSlave Comments: I have a similar problem as described above but with one variable. I had a small leak from my water pump O-ring, water pump was replaced. during process: drained radiator and engine block of coolant. I filled with coolant via radiator expansion tank, after which I attempted to bleed system. Hot air was coming out of vents in car and the radiator hoses were hot during bleeding process. Thought all was good, now my vents always blows hot air regardless of how the controls are set....I feel like I missed a step in putting my coolant in or something else has gone wrong now heater valveany help is appreciated!
April 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The heater valve may be stuck open, sedning hot coolant to the heater core at all times. I would check that when your request cold air, the heater control valve hoses are not hot going to the heater core. Turn the key ON, before starting the engine select cold air. Then let engine warm up, there should be hot coolant going to heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
New2BMW Comments: Just writing about the latest findings on previous statement on heater problems... As never owning a BMW before or dual climate i never noticed how many outlets on the firewall there were supposed to be and never realised that the previous owner had snapped the outlet a 3 way connection on the firewall clean off, and bodged the hose up... Hard to notice till i took the controller unit off. Looks like problem will stay as its a MASSIVE job to fix. Might have to scrap for parts or get another one if winter gets too cold in AUSTRALIA... :
April 6, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Previous owners or their mechanics cause so many problems! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
slick Comments: What's up I have a 95 325I its leaking coolant near the fire wall I got under the car and the coolant is driping down the transmission near the torque converter do have any idea where it might be leaking from?
March 23, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the water leaks at the back of the engines are near where the heater valve and hoses are that feed hot water into the heater system for the passenger compartment. Something is leaking back there, possibly the heater valve. You need to go in there and check it out (it may only be an old hose). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Wayne Comments: Thanks for the web page. My '98 740iL has no inside heat. The fan blows as required by input. The defroster blows with heat as required by input. But the heater blows cold no matter what kind of input you put on it. What is the probable cause? Thanks.
March 14, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would bet on a bad flapper valve in the heating duct itself. Either that, or the control unit that controls the valve (in the dash) is faulty. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
dj dave Comments: ive got a 316 compact year95 no heat in cabin also brown sludge in rad
March 14, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Brown sludge is pretty bad - that typically may mean that you have a coolant and oil mix going on. Check out my article on head gasket replacement to see what it looks like when that happens. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
New2BMW Comments: Just bought a 92 BMW E36 318is. I like the look of the car but FU*K it is a headache to own. Electronic everything and sensors everywhere. I have a dual zone analogue unit. The a/c doesnt work probably just needs a re-gas but im here because i cant figure out why i cant get heat from my vents. When i turn my car off i get a very strange sound from behind the dash near where the 'flap box' would be, but only sometimes. The directions all work the fan speed works but sometimes turns itself off and on. All the fuses are good the coolant has been flushed and bled. Been looking for hours and cant get a decent answer, but have come to the conclusion that this is just the way it is with electronic controlled everything type cars, and need to pay big $$ to get anything fixed... Please i like my car and would rather fix it than go back to my old school runners, so any advice will be appreciated
February 20, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The late-style electronic heater control units have a problem with a capacitor that goes bad on them. I don't have an article on that, on this site, but if you Google it, you will probably find it. It might be that issue, although I don't think they used that particular electronic control unit in 1992? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
speedy Comments: i have a 740il 1995 bmw. and my heater valve is leaking.i wann know do i buy another one or can it be flushed and clean //rebuilt//..if i have have to buy another one do u know where i can find it for under 200 bucks
February 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, this is only available from BMW, and the price is well over $200. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
oversteer Comments: My '97 e36 318is heater won't produce anything but full heat. I have changed both the control panel and the heater valve with no luck. Initially, after changing the stuff, the heater stayed cool until I turned it up and there it stayed until one sub-zero day in December when it wouldn't warm at all. I fiddled with the controls and it came back and has stayed piping hot ever since. The car doesn't have climate control, just the basic poverty-spec heater. Any advice would be gratefully appreciated. thanks.
February 1, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure about this one. On some of the German Porsches, when there is a fault in the climate control unit, the whole system fails to full heat. The theory behind this is that in the German winters, it is far better to have full heat and not freeze to death, than have no heat at all. That said, I would guess that maybe one or more of the sensors feeding information to the system are faulty. You'll have to go through each one and test them, just like I've done in the past with at least one of my Porsches. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Oversteer Comments: After reading the above articles, I think the mysterious "Torque splits" is a result of misunderstanding someons saying "Torx bits" referring to the recessed star type screw heads similar to allen screws. They are often referred to as spline drive bolts and the torx bits are the part of a tool set you would use to remove torx head bolts. I hope this helps clarify the matter for you all.
February 1, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Correct, Torx Bits. Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
MarkSandall Comments: I have a BMW 3 series e36, my problem is the heating of the cabin, the driver's side works normally on the passenger side air is always fresh. when I turn the air conditioning and cold I select to work well on both sides, only on heating is not.
I think it is the heater valve. I ask for your help. much obliged
January 25, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think you're probably correct. If you're not getting any heat at all, then it is probably your heater valve that is not functioning properly. If you get heat on one side, but not the other side, then the problem may be with your control unit, or it may with the flapper valves located inside the heating ducts, behind the dash. I would probably investigate the heater valve first, as that is typically what fails initially. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
TiffanyGar Comments: Hi, I have a 97 bmw 740IL and I have no heat. A/C works perfectly. Got inspection from Midas and they said the thermostat is working fine. Coolant levels are also okay. What could it be? Only blows out cold air
January 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm guessing that it's either the control unit or the heater valve, which let's hot water into the climate control system in order to heat the car. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
soapy Comments: i have checked the control unit its working fine and i can here the flappers opening there is air coming through the vents but it is very weak and its not that warm.would it help if i put a new thermostat in and flushed the system.thanx guys
January 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I doubt it would help - if the airflow is very low, then it may be an air vent blower motor failure, or a failure of the switch in the control unit. Also, it might be the blower resistor, although this is typically bypassed when the blower motor is set to high. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
doogy Comments: hi wayne.i had my climate control unit reconed.theres things going on with the unit that wasnt going on b4.but still no air at all anywhere.im realy desperate now as weve got the snow and frost.what else could it be.you did say,possibly the heater control valve.anymore info. would be gratefully appreciated.thanks.
January 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure - I'd have to see the car. The only other obvious thing might be the blower motor or the blower resistor. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Maz Comments: Thanks to all the contributions made by you guys it has helped me a lot. I was going to buy a refurbed part but it seems it can be cleaned out.
I get the feeling you are not based in the UK so if I wanted to order anything from you the postage would make it pretty expensive. Have you got a UK outlet?
January 2, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No UK outlet, but sometimes our prices are much lower than the places that sell direct in the UK, so the shipping cancels out. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
doogy Comments: thanks wayne.ill be sorting out the control unit asap.
December 20, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Peter Comments: So.. I called in to ask for "torque splits", nobody at Pelican seems to know what they are, and they can't find this article either. I even went as far as to describe the google search and the specific URL of this page and all I got was "I can't find the article you're talking about" and "I'm not gonna type all that in".

Hey Wayne, could you get whoever the sysadmin is to link this article to your articles page, possibly put a link to the "torque splits" part so we could order qty 6 of them, and mention it to Michael?

Peter
December 20, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry Peter. I have never heard of the parts "torque splits" and a Google search revealed nothing of significance either. I suspect that you may be located in another country where the nomenclature is slightly different than here in the US? Feel free to post the URL of the article you're talking about here as well. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
coolbear1 Comments: The heat on my 93 E36 does not work well after replacing a leaking hose from the engine to the heater control valve. The right side vents have some heat, but none in the center and left. I suspected air, so I purged the heater core by removing the hoses and conecting a garden hose. This made no diference, so I cleaned the valve. The valve did have some corrosion, but I still have no heat on the left and center. I OHM'ed out the heater valve conectors. I have 16 OHM's between 1 and 2, but no continuity at all between 3 and 1 or 3 and 2. Bad valve coil? Bad coil on one side? are the coils available?
December 19, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm guessing you have a big air bubble in there. I would bleed the entire cooling system with the heater on and see if that helps. Check out my article on BMW cooling system bleeding in the tech articles section. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jmruk2 Comments: Hey, im a owner of a 740il 1997 with a dual climate control. My driver's side vent blows only cold air no matter what i set it to. On the passenger side , everything looks fine. I already replaced the heating valve but it did not help. The hose after the left and right valve is pretty hot. I also removed the climate control unit , cleaned everything , and inspected it. There was no visable damage. When I switch the driver's side air blowing position I hear how the flapper moves.Do you think this is the clmate control unit? Flappers? Or is the drivers side heating core clogged ?
December 19, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've seen cars where the motor for the flapper works fine, but the linkage is broken. So you "hear" the mechanism, but it's not operating properly. I would dive into the dash and see if you can locate the flapper valves - you may be surprised to find that the plastic linkage bars have broken or fallen off and that is what is causing one side to work, but not the other. Either that, or the control unit may be faulty. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
doogy Comments: hi.i have a 1998 e36 318is.i have a dual climate control unit.theres various sites that say the unit itself can be faulty,but mine doesnt seem to be showing any symptons they speak of.i just cant get any air,hot or cold.it just doesnt work.is it the thermostat,valve control unit,or fan.having said fan,the car never runs hot.please help.im desperate at this time of year.22 miles to work with a car that wont defrost.thanks.
December 19, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Indeed, it could be the heater valve which controls the application of warm coolant to your heater system. Or, it could be the control unit. Although, if you're not getting any cold air either, I would say it's probably a faulty control unit. These units are infamous for having a capacitor problem on the board - check the web for articles on how to repair this. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
doogy Comments: useful bits of info.thanks guys.
December 19, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JD Comments: I own a 1999 323iC e36...all of my vents work, blowing hot air, with the exception of the windshield vents. What type of root cause would be at the source of this issue: not allowing air, or impeding air from blowing through the windshield aka defrost vents?
December 16, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The air vents are controlled by flappers that are connected to a motor assembly. These can sometimes become loose, or the motor can become stuck. If you switch from windscreen to front vent, you should be able to hear the flappers opening and closing (you have to listen very carefully, and I'm not sure if you have to have the heater motor running, which makes it more difficult to hear of course). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
soapy Comments: i have a 98 318is it takes about 20 minutes to clear the windscreen with the blower on full blast there is very little air coming from any of the vents.i have replaced the hedgehog and the dual fan motor but still the same.any suggestions.thanx
December 9, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm guessing that the flapper motors that control the flaps inside the dashboard may be broken, or the controller may be faulty. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Hircle Comments: I initially have no heat then it starts coming out through the floor but cant get any heat through other vents. Is that a heater valve? Can these usually be cleaned or do most have to be replaced?
December 2, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I'm guessing it's a flapper valve that's in the dash. These control the airflow to the various vents. Either that, or the controller unit is faulty. If it was a heater valve, you wouldn't get any heat at all. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jonz1967 Comments: What do I have to remove to install a new heater hose from the engine to the heater valve?
November 27, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are a few hoses, one of them is accessible from the rear of the engine compartment, but you need to remove the manifold to really get to it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: 2000 328Ci E46 - no hot air coming from any of the vent but disconnecting the water valve I get hot air. Measured the voltage at the terminals and there is always 12vdc, on both full heat and full cold? Does the 'hedgehog' need replacing?
October 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like it (heater valve is stuck and needs replacement). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
phan Comments: i own an E46 facelift, 318i, when i switch on the aircon in the car it blows hot air into the cabin. This started after a radiator pipe into the engine was replaced. Could this be a heater valve problem and do i need to get it replaced or it can be serviced?
September 8, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a heater valve, but very likely you have an air bubble that is trapped in the cooling system as well. I would start by trying to rebleed the system (easy and cheap), and then take a closer look at the heater valve. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
the ROCK Comments: Hi i have an e36 1997 323i and every I start the car the heater comes on and I have to turn it off, doesn't bother me too much, is this normal?....thanks THE ROCK
September 3, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Nope, not normal. I haven't heard of that happening before. In Germany, it's common for an HVAC system to default to full heat (so you won't freeze to death in Germany if your system doesn't work). This might be part of that - there might be some other issue causing it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Wil Comments: Hi. I have e46 M43TU. Cold air blows from center vents but hot air on my feet both driver and passenger's side. I added R134a coolant but it moade no impact. No funny sound coming out from the vents though. Could be the problem be the heater valve? Actually, I would like to disable the heater since I am living in a tropical country. What should I do. Thanks...
August 25, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, you are on the right track. This is either the heater valve or the flappers inside the heating ducts. I would probably take a look at the heater valve first. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jim Comments: Hello i have a 2003 540i, when i turn on the air conditioner the left side blows ice cold air unless i raise the temp. and the right side blows warm/hot air all the time no matter what the temp. setting. All controls seem to work on the dual climate control system. Is this a climate controller problem or a bad/stuck heater valve problem. Any help would be welcomed. Thank You.
August 7, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be either one, but you're on the right track. I think that you need to start troubleshooting - I would probably start with the vents first and see if you can hear they changing / opening / closing on the right side. It's tough to figure out if this is a controller problem without swapping it out with a new one (not easy or cheap). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jannie Comments: hi. i'm so happy' i got a second hand valve for r200. in good condition. i installed it and jis now both sides warm and now i see how the dual temp controle function. thank for your help. this is a great site
July 15, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JANNIE Comments: HI WAYNE. THANKS FOR YOU YOUR REPLY. I OPENED THE HEAT VALVE LAST NIGHT. THE ONE SIDE WAS STUCK. I MANAGE TO CLEAN IT AND AS I WAS WALKING WITH THE COILS WITH THE WIRES ON IT FELL OUT MY HAND AND THE WIRES BROKE. SO YES ONE SHOULD BE VERY CAREFUL IN DOING THIS. I WILL VISIT SCRAPYARD TO GET A GOOD ONE AS A NEW ONE AT BMW IS R 3500.

I MANAGE TO PUT THE TWO SIDES TOGETHER WITHOUT THE VLAVES INSIDE JUST SO THAT I GAN USE THE CAR. NOE THE HEAT IS ON BOTH SIDES AND I'M HAPPY.

THE QUESTION I ALSO HAVE IS, IS THE VALVE NECESSARY AND HOW AND BY WHAT IS THE VALVE CONTROLED.

QUESTION : THE TEMP SETTINGS ON PASSENGER AND DRIVERS SIDE. DOES THIS TEMP CONTOLES CONTROLE THE VALVE, SHOULD THE SPEED CHANGE OF THE BLOWER IF BOTH SIDES OF THE TEMP CONTROLES IS CHANGED. CURRENTLY AND BEFORE I OPENED THE VALVE IT ONLY CHANGE THE BLOWER SPEED IF I CHANGE THE TEMP SETTING ON THE PASSENGER'S SIDE. IS THIS NORMAL . I

I HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME WITH THIS AS THIS DUAL SIDE TEMP CONTOLE CONFUSES ME AS I'M NOT SURE HOW SHOULD IT WORK.

July 13, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, I believe that is all normal. The computer will try to adjust the temperature by opening the heater valve on each side and by also adjusting the velocity / speed of air as well. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jannie Comments: Have a 1997 323i. passenger side heat is working but not drivers side. when i hit the heatvalve hot is coming out on drivers side. could this be the valve or the climate contole as i noticed when i change the temp on passenger side depending hotter o cooler the blower speed change but when i change the drivers side temp nothing happen on the blower speed.
July 13, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's probably one of the flappers in the air duct. Take a flexible hose and poke it down your vents and see if you can dislodge it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
peter Comments: 1985 bmw 524td when turn a/c on heat come out of dash vent &foot well a/c comes out of center vent
May 28, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The heater valve may be stuck open, sedning hot coolant to the heater core at all times. I would check that when your request cold air, the heater control valve hoses are not hot going to the heater core. Turn the key ON, before starting the engine select cold air. Then let engine warm up, there should be hot coolant going to heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tom Comments: Could somebody please tell what temperatures the digital climate control unit on a 1997 e36 318is coupe is meant to run from and to. Just bought this car and the unit only goes down to 16. Is this normal?
May 25, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you're talking about 16 degrees Celcius, which is about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, which sounds about correct for the climate control. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Colby Comments: Im having problems where the heat doesn't come on either, i have a 95 318is and i did drain the rad out and flushed it out.. I'm thinking it is my thermostat, i have yet to change it, but when i put the defrost on there is no hot air coming from there either.. so does that mean i have the same problem and have to fix the flapper?? Whenever my car runs, it never heats up the middle unless sitting and when i run the car it always says its running in the cold section and not the middle. Also for the summer time, what do i have to do to get the a/c working or what symptoms should I check out? Also just replaced the fan and now its blowing air but cant get it either hot or cold!! Can i buy one of those a/c kits at the auto store? Do those work?

Thanks!
February 15, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the engine never warms up, the thermostat isl ikely faulty. I would start there. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
97orlflm3 Comments: First, thanks for this great service.

I have a 97 M3 and the heater is no longer working. Temp gauge appears normal so I assume the thermostat is fine and the problem is the heater valve. Want to DIY, but cannot imagine getting those hoses on/off to remove the valve w/o removing the intake. Hopefully I am wrong as I dread taking off that intake or taking it to the dealer.

TIA
February 3, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is certainly heard to access, but you can replace it without removing the intake manifold. You will have to work by feel and use extensions. Shouldn't take more than a few hours. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rechino Comments: Hello, on my 1993 318is early dual zone system I can't get cold air to the windshield. On the middle and foot vents I can get both cold and hot air. Any ideas?
January 28, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This is normal. The defrost vent always blows warm air. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cvonhausen Comments: No need of Heater valve, I will assume that the heater core is fine and not clogged upflushing will do it. Just connect hot water inlet from engine to two of firewall input hoses, a T will be good which cost me app $2, then connect output Firewall hoseleft to engine hot water return, you can optimize this with couple of manual witches so when summer o Temperatures raise no hot water goes inside.
January 26, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Sephiroth Comments: will this tutorial work on a 1992 325i 4-Door bmw?
January 22, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 1992 was a transition year. I think the 325i was an E36, if it is, it will work for you. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Topher Comments: I have a 1998 328is. It has the auto/digital temp inside. I have the temp dial set to red for full heat but the car blows out cold air. When I drive 45-65mph I get hot air but when I slow down to a stop it gets cold again. Any ideas? Thanks!!
January 18, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the engine is warming up normally and not overheating the heater control valve could be restricted. Check the temp of the hoses to the heater core, with the heat on full warm, see if the inlet hose into the valve is hotter than going intot he heater core. If the valve is restricted, the temp will drop across the valve. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Gar2006 Comments: Could you explain to me what the flapper box control is in the E36 model,i have the problem that i only have hot air while driving but i dont know how the flapper box control works or where its is,I would be greatfull if you could help me.
January 5, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Assuming the flapper box is the heater box, the control for it is the control panel. All the blend doors are controled by it, via inputs from you. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
John P. Mykytka Comments: I have the same problem as Waltske 11/10/09 ie only hot air through defrost vents. When the knob is turned to the dash vent only cold air. You indicated most likely the control unit is the probably cause and needs to be replaced. Can you tell me more about this control unit? Is that what the BMW dealer would call it?
January 5, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The defrost vent always blows warm air (on some models, not sure what you have). However, if you cannot control the temp at the dash or other vents, the control unit may be faulty. Check the signal to the blend door motor, if you are select the temp to change, the blend door should receive voltage to change direction. - Nick at Pelican Parts - Nick at Pelican Parts  
paniolo Comments: I didn't know what the Torque splits referred to in the article were and worried I wouldn't have the tool. At least on my '96 328 those were Torx fittings and needed a T10 driver.

Just to re-emphasize: pull both metal solenoids off as a single unit to not break the thin wires that run between the two. I backed all six Torx screws out a couple turns and then broke the solenoids free so they couldn't accidentally come all the way off. Then take the screws all the way out and gently lift the solenoids off together.

Thanks PP for putting this up!
December 18, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That was a typo, it was meant to say Torx Bits.

Thanks for the Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Maui Paul Comments: Heater Core replacement/ '94 325is production date 11/93
You DO NOT have to remove the dash to replace a leaking core. Every dealer I called and several INdy shops are all Wrong!! There is only one torx screw of 7 that is impossible to access and apparently lead to the remove the dash conclusion. Here is the trick. Simply drill an access hole through the dash frame member support rail. This rail is about 3 inches wide and your access hole is only ~ 3/8 of an inch having absolutely no effect on this support member and saving you countless hours of work. Having just completed this job its really not too bad approached with intelligence and patience. I took lots of pics and may get inspired to do a write up since there is no good information on any of the BMW newsgroups...
December 15, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Cool, if you want to write an article, I'm sure everyone here would love to see it. Send it to me at wayne@pelicanparts.com or at least the photos. Thx, - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
sk Comments: Hi guys, I have a dual analogue type of heater controls in my e36. Passenger side stays hot all time on feet/defrost no matter what the dial say. Drivers side will either be fully hot with the dial in the red or cold whith adjustment of the dial one notch from fully hot

What do you think?
December 14, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be a stuck heater valve behind the dash, or a bad heater unit. Either way, finding and fixing these are a pain - you have to take apart the entire dash. See if you can hear the flappers moving when you turn the passenger dial (you should be able to hear them moving very softly when you turn the driver's knob). Also with the engine off and the blower on, you should feel a change in the air as you turn the dials. If not, then either the controller or the flappers are broken. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Peter Comments: Hello
I have a 98 318IS with an auto dual zone AC with the exact same problem of Kudos.

My heater valve pops every 3-5 seconds and it has 2 pops one right after the other. This is happening every day now. Starts a wile after the car is running hot engine. When it starts, it keeps on going even with the engine stopped but with the ignition-key turned.

Does anyone know the problem?
I'm also inclined to some temp sensor besides valve or controller. Is it possible?
Kudos, have you solved your/our problem yet?

Thanks
December 11, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be the controller, but it sounds like it may be the valve itself. The valve probably needs replacing. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
m3.wannabe Comments: My 95 325i has a problem keeping heat inside.
When you hold the revs on a bit i will get heat but when sitting in trafic the air will run cold. Flushed the water system and fitted a new thermo stat blead the hole system and left it running for about am hour with heat inside. When i took it for a spin and stoped again the cold air started to come back into the system till i give it a few revs.
December 7, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like it might be the flapper box control behind the dash. This is a real bear to get out unfortunately, but it may be the only way to fix this problem. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
DBM10 Comments: Hey walt, my '92 325i has the same issue, it doesn't take that long for the heat to come on for me, but it's only hot from the defrost vents, floor and face vents are just outside air temp. Anyone have a solution for this? Is this a problem a clogged heater valve could cause?
November 15, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Silly question, are the vent temps selected properly? Also, if you suspect a plugged heater control valve, check that the coolant hoses on the exit side of the valve are as warm as the hoses for the entrance. This is an easy way to see if the valve is working. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
waltske Comments: In my 95 325is, it takes between 5-20 min after starting for the fan to start blowing any air in cold weather. Also heat only comes through the defrost vents. The air that blows through the main and foot vents is barely warm. Any ideas? Thanks
November 10, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: With respect to the fan, that may be normal. The car won't use the fan or even the radiator until it needs to (the flow of coolant to the radiator is regulated by the thermostat).

As for the vents, that sounds like a defective control unit, or a stuck valve in the dashboard. If it's the same for the driver and passenger side, then I would primarily suspect the control unit. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
 
Nick Comments: My 93 325is overheated and seems like the heater valve borke on me- coolant was drained. How difficult is it to get to this part from underneath? I've replaced the radiator, tranny cooler, & thermostat....do you think I would be able to tackle this job as well?
November 2, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe that you need to take the manifold off to reach this part, but I haven't done it myself, so I'm not 100% sure. I would check the Bentley manual, I think instructions / hints are in there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Kudos Comments: What I mean by pop, is like a popcorn maker. It pops every 3-5 seconds and it has 2 pops one right after the other. When it does pop, if i touch the valve, i can feel it moving on the inside. This doesn't happen always, but seems to be mostly when i have the heat on and afterwards.
November 1, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Okay, it does sound like it may be the valve failing then, or it may be the controller behind the dash. Typically the valve is more reliable than the controller, but you never know. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Kudos Comments: Pelican I have a question. My heater valve pops every 3-5 seconds. Would the cure be to replace the entire thing, and if so, what can be the backlash of not replacing the part?
October 25, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure what you mean by "pop"? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
david Comments: here's after the repair... now best option is, of course, to replace the broken part... but in my case I opted to go for the simple repair. keep in mind that should your repair break, you'll be stranded.
October 19, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
david Comments: hello, my 325i has a similar problem... absolutely no heat from anywhere. just purchased it for $2500 and it's a 1995... so I figure it's got some issues. come to find out the three plastic hose connectors to the heater core on the firewall are broken. I'm in the process of mending them now, I'll let everyone know how the repair process goes. Thanks again P-P for the helpfull info!

Lucky, I have the part number for the plastic triple-hose heater core connection... for my 325i e36 the numbers are as follows:
90.812.00.867
PA65 GF30
8 390 697.2

one of the supply line ends was cracked almost in two on my car, I ground out the crack and repaired it with some plastic weld two-part epoxy that is fuel\antifreeze\oil\thinner resistant... and rated to withstand extreme pressure. 3M's 8115 panel bond. amazing stuff.
JB WELD would work also, as would most auto shop epoxy mixtures that are resistant to the environment of the cooling system.
as for replacing this part, not a big deal at all. no dash work, all under hood stuff. a single 10mm nut holds it in place behind the engine... it is tricky to reach mind you, but can be done in about an hours time.
good luck with your repair
October 19, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Lucky Comments: G'day...I have a peculiar problem....In fig2 you have shown the pipe outlets on to which the heater valve pipes on to....my problem is that if one of them has snapped of what do I do ?? I have in the mean time re-routed the pipes to get me going but the heater needs to work at some stage. Does the dash need to come off or is there an easier way...thanx for all the posts...great help.
October 5, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you need to replace the part that has broken, I'm not exactly sure which part that is, but replacing this is a pain. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
scotferg Comments: My 96 328is has the dual zone climate control. Currently
I can get hot air from the passenger side only. Face vents respond to the hot/cold dial, but footwell vent blows hot no matter what, even with AC on. Drivers side and defrost vents are cold no matter what. Could this be a heater valve issue? I can feel one of the coolant hoses leading to the heater core is hot, but the other two are cold. This leads me to believe there is a clog. But that wouldn't explain why the passenger side still gets hot air. Does this car have two heater cores for the dual zone climate control? Any help is very appreciated. just got our first snow and its so cold!!
October 5, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm guessing that you have a flapper problem behind the dash, and the flaps are not opening properly for the driver's side. No easy fix there, you might have to tear apart the dash. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Terry Comments: Where is the the bleed plug on the e36 motor? Shop did this already no oil in coolant so no cracked head.
October 3, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See the article in our section here on coolant change for a photo. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Terry Comments: Have 95 318 i that sends temp gauge up to near red then cools down to normal. Clogged heater core? Heater control
valve stuck shut? Help.
October 1, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like an air bubble in the system. Put the heater on full blast and bleed the system several times (there's an article on this, on the main page of this site). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Savon Comments: Recently, my expansion tank on my E36 M3 went out on my car and it started to over heat. After I replaced it, it's still over heating and I don't know why. Weird thing is, I tried to turn on the heater in my car and it blows cold air. Would that have anything to do with the expansion tank being replace? 2nd, do I have to plug in the level sensor that's connected to the tank in order for the car to run right? 3rd, if the car is blowing cold air, I might have another problem to deal with. I thought it was connected to the expansion tank problem because before it went out on me, the heater was working fine. Any Thoughts?
September 30, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, odd problem. I would try bleeding the coolant system another 3-4 times. Make sure the heater is on when you do so. You probably have an air bubble caught in there which is causing no coolant to make it to the heater core. The level sensor shouldn't affect the coolant system of the car - just the warning lamps on the dash. Air bubble - bleed, rebleed, and then bleed again. I had to bleed 4-5 times when I rebuilt my head on my 325is. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

Got more questions?  Join us in our BMW Technical Forum Message Board, and ask a question to one of our many automotive experts.
  Search our site:    

View Cart & CheckOut | Project List | Order Status |  Help    

 

[Home] [Customer Service] [Shopping Cart] [Privacy Statement]
 [Contact Us] [About Us] [Shipping] [Map to our Location]

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc.