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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Injector Replacement

Difficulty Level: 3
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

     This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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     In this article, I'm going to walk you through the process of replacing your fuel injectors.  Now, before we begin, a good question to ask would be why would you want to replace them to begin with.  There are several myths and misunderstandings regarding fuel injectors.  The first one is "bigger injectors will give you more power."  This statement is completely false.  It's the equivalent of saying that adding more lights to your living room will make you see better.

     The fuel injectors that are in your BMW are more than adequate for stock engines, and supply more than enough fuel for maximum power and open throttle.  For your engine to achieve maximum power, it must have a air/fuel ratio maintained within a certain range.  Adding more fuel to the mixture makes it richer, and won't necessarily give you any more power.  In fact, it is typically the opposite - a richer mixture will foul plugs and won't ignite as easily.  The goal of any good fuel injection system (whether it be carburetors or Motronic fuel injection) is to maintain the idea air/fuel ratio (typically about 14.67:1) for ideal combustion and power.  Adding higher flow, or larger injectors disrupts the balance of the engine, makes the engine's fuel management system run richer, and generally decreases power from ideal levels.  Is the same thing as adding more high powered lights to your living room - if the room was adequately lit to begin with, then you won't see better - you'll see worse, because it will be too bright for your eyes.

     So what are the exceptions to this rule?  There are a few.  Major changes in the displacement or flow of the engine can cause the engine to run lean.  Examples would include if you increased the displacement of your engine, or if you added a turbo or supercharger.  The supercharger compresses the air/fuel mixture and allows more of it to exist within the same size combustion chamber.  Therefore, ideally there should be more fuel injected into the combustion chamber when compressed with a supercharger, then is normally injected on a normally aspirated engine.  For owners who add a supercharger or turbo to their car, they need to be especially concerned about keeping the engine's mixture correct - the tendency is for these cars to run too lean, which can lead to destructive problems like detonation or overheating.

     In general, you should not upgrade or replace your injectors with larger ones, unless you have made a significant engine modification that would cause the engine to run lean.  If you are replacing injectors, then make sure that you use ones that have stock flow rates for your engine - don't buy ones that have higher flow rates thinking that it will give you more power - it won't.

     So why would you want to replace your injectors then?  Well, as the engines get old, the injectors tend to fail and leak.  If you pull fault codes out of your computer, it may tell you that you have a faulty or leaking fuel injector.  See my article on Reading BMW Fault Codes for more details on how to do this.  You may also find that you can see or smell a particular injector leaking.  If this is the case, you may not have to replace the injector itself, but may only need to replace the injector o-rings.

     For the purpose of this article, I will assume that your intake manifold (which houses the injectors) is still installed inside of your BMW.  Most of the photos accompanying this article show the intake manifold removed from the car, as it is easier to show some elements without the manifold installed.  All of the injectors can be removed without removing the intake manifold though.

     The first step is to prep the car.  I like to tell people to pull out the fuse for the fuel pump (typically number 18), and then try to start the car.  The car will turn over and then die.  Do this about 1-15 times - it will help drain excess fuel out of your system.  Then, make sure that the car has cooled down - you don't want to be working with gasoline when the car is hot.  Have a fire extinguisher handy - there will be some spillage of fuel - it's nearly impossible to prevent.  Also, wear chemical resistant gloves if you don't want to get any gasoline on your hands, and make sure that you have plenty of paper towels or rags on hand to help you clean up.  Perform the injector removal in a clear, open, and well-ventilated space, and it may not hurt to have an assistant around in case there are any problems.


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       Begin by removing the top two plastic covers from the engine.  Figure 1 shows how to pry up the small plastic hole cover that hides the bolts that hold the top plastic covers on (Figure 2).  Begin by removing the center cover (Figure 3), and then remove the cover on the right side of the engine (left side if you are looking at the car).  Figure 4 shows the covers removed and out of the way.  This photo also shows the spark plugs and coils removed, which you do not have to do to replace the injectors (this photo is simply borrowed from the spark plug replacement tech article).

     Pop off the long, thin plastic cover in the center that covers the wire harness for the spark plugs and the injectors (Figure 5).  Remove the two small bolts that fasten this wire harness box to the top of the intake manifold.  At this point, you will need to remove the connectors from each of the fuel injectors.  All six must be removed prior to removing the wire harness box.  Using a pair of needlenose pliers, reach in and disconnect the small retaining wires that hold the connectors onto the ends of the injectors.  Be careful not to drop these, as they can fall into the recesses of your engine, and be very difficult to fish out.  In most cases, you only need to undo one side of the metal clips, and the side will pop out when you lift up on the wire harness box.  Start with the injector that is closest to the front of the car, and word towards #6, which is located at the rear.

    With the clips disconnected, you should be able to remove the wire harness bar from the tops of the injectors, and move it out of the way (Figure 6).  At this point, you should have much better access to the injectors (Figure 7) - it's time to remove them from the fuel rail.  The fuel rail is the long, thin metal bar that runs along the top of the injectors.  Begin by removing the small, black, square retaining clip that fastens and secures the injector to the fuel rail (shown in Figure 8 and Figure 9).  Use a pair of needlenose pliers again to pull this clip off.  It pulls off from the side (it's C-shape), and should slide off with a reasonable amount of force.  Remove all six - this will allow you to remove and detach the fuel rail from the top of the injectors.  When all of the clips have been removed, then remove the two bolts that attach the fuel rail to the manifold.  One of these bolts can be see in Figure 10.

     At this point you should be able to pull off the fuel rail from the top of the injectors.  Use caution - although the fuel rail is made out of metal, it is easy to bend and break it.  Be very careful, and work from the front of the car to the rear - pulling and making progress slowly.  The injectors have big fat o-rings that are pressed into bores in the fuel rail - you are battling these o-rings as you lift up on it, and pull it out.  You can see one of these o-rings clearly in Figure 11.

     Depending upon the particular characteristics of your car, it may be easier to remove the injectors first from the manifold.  As you pull up on the fuel rail, some may stick in the manifold, or some may come out with the fuel rail - it all depends upon a variety of factors.  The bottom line is that it doesn't really matter.  The same fat o-ring which holds the injector into the fuel rail is also used to hold the injector into the manifold.

     When you have lifted up your fuel rail (expect some fuel spillage from the rail), you should be able to push it out of the way enough to be able to pull out the injectors.  If you don't have access, or can't move the fuel rail, then you may have to loosen up some connections on either side (it has rubber fuel line attached with hose clamps) to help a bit.   On my 325is, I did not have to remove or loosen any of these connections.

     With or without the injectors still attached to the fuel rail, you can now pull them out of the manifold.  They are held in place using the same big fat o-ring at the tip of the injector.  Simply pull straight up on the injector and it should come out of the manifold (Figure 12).  You may have to tug a little bit to get it out, but don't use excessive force.  Sometimes repeated wiggling helps.  Be careful of the injector tips (Figure 13) they are made of plastic, and are not available separately from the $80 injectors.  Do not damage them.

     With the injectors out of the manifold (Figure 14) you can now take them to be cleaned and calibrated.  Over the years, the injectors become dirty and may also not distribute flow evenly amongst all six.  It costs about $150 for all six to be cleaned, tested, and calibrated.  New injectors cost anywhere from $80-$120 apiece, making their replacement a somewhat pricey endeavor.

     There are three types of injector leaks - it can leak fuel into the manifold from the nozzle, it can leak fuel into the engine compartment from the fuel rail, and it can leak air (vacuum leak) from the manifold.  The first leak cannot be fixed at home - you need to have the injector repaired or replaced (I recommend replacement, as it will be pretty old anyways).  The fuel rail leak is easy to content with - simply replace the old, fat o-ring that seals the injector to the fuel rail (Figure 15).  This should be done anytime the injectors are out of the car.

     The third leakage area is a bit of a catch-22.  The tip of the injector needs to be removed from the injector.  While this seems easy, and indeed it is easy to remove, it is just as easy to damage the tip when you remove it.  I have not found a source for these tips, other than purchasing a new injector ($80-$120), so the risk here in replacement is very high.  The method that I used to replace one of the seals in the tip seemed to work, but it also did slightly ding and damage the green plastic, fragile tip of the injector.  Figure 13 shows this tip.

     The method I used was to first remove the old o-ring by cutting it off with a razor blade (Figure 16).  Be careful not to damage the green plastic tip when you cut through the o-ring.  Then, remove the o-ring with a pic, again taking care with the tip (Figure 17).  Finally, to get the new o-ring on, you will need to remove the tip.  The best method I figured out for removing the tip was to get a small 8-9mm crescent wrench and apply uniform pressure against the tip (Figure 18).  However, this still results in some of the plastic on the tip becoming marred.  Pressing up with the wrench using a surprisingly large amount of force will make the tip pop off of the injector.  At this point, you can attach the new o-ring and snap the tip back on.

     Because of the danger in damaging the tip of the injector, I do not recommend replacing the o-ring behind the tip unless you had a clear manifold leak.  I would almost recommend putting some sealant or silicone around the edge of the seal instead of installing a new o-ring.  I found it just too easy to damage the green plastic tip.  I'm not sure what effects a damaged tip would have on engine performance.

     If you are replacing all your injectors (Figure 19), or the o-rings, make sure that you place a very tiny, tiny bit of white lithium grease on the edges that will be pressed into the fuel rail and the manifold.  This will aid in the insertion of the injector and the reassembly of the fuel rail.  It will also help to prevent the o-ring from pinching, and will guard against tiny leaks as well.

     Installation is basically the reverse of removal.  You may find it easier to insert the injectors into the manifold first - if you have enough room.  Double-check to make sure that all of the fat o-rings are securely seated when you reattach the fuel rail.  Don't attach the two top plastic covers just yet - you will want to leave them off so you can check for leaks.  When you are ready to fire up the car, have an assistant on hand, in case there is a fuel leak.  Have them watch the injectors and the fuel lines to make sure that there are no leaks.  If all checks out okay, then button up the top two covers, and you're done!

     This technical article is made possible solely through the support of Pelican Parts.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.

 

   
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Comments and Suggestions:
AC Comments: I recently did this, and upon re-installing everything, I had to remove the fuel rail again to do something, and I found that keeping the clips on the injectors made it a lot easier to remove. they would all disconnect from the engine together, so there is no fuel coming out of the rail at the injectors, making it a lot easier to control and make less of a mess. Unless there is a reason not to do it this way, it could be a helpful tip.
December 14, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Momo7 Comments: I recently replaced my fuel injectors on my 93e36 and when the fuel injectors and fuel rail were put back on im not getting any pressure to my fuel system. How can i build that pressure back? Please help...
December 1, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: the system is self-bleeding. You may have a faulty fuel pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
popeye Comments: Excellent post and good reading, have a 328 sport just started to smell inside and the speedo cluster misted up yesterday : : any views please..
November 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I bet you have a leaking heater core. Pressure test the cooling system and check for coolant on the interior floor or out of the heater box drain. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aaron Comments: I recently started having an issue with my car-a rough lumpy idle and then the power would seem to cut in and out during acceleration, and occasionally it would feel like it was going to stall. so I ran the OBD and got the 1251 code, and I just got through pulling the fuel rail out and inspect the injectors and o-rings and everything. I haven't really determined anything yet, but the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator was falling apart. it snapped as I tried to disconnect it. can this be related to the engine running poorly? I know it would be a leak, but I don't know if the vacuum leak could cause what I have been experiencing. thanks for your help
November 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You didn't mention what vehicle you are working on.

A vacuum leak will cause engine drivability issues. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
1995 325i Comments: Just wanted to follow up, I just installed set of OEM remanufactured injectors and not only did it fix my problem, I gained at least 10-12 HP/tq, I'm getting better gas mileage, better throttle response, its a whole new car. 200k is hard on injectors lol. But I would recommend this to anyone who hasn't replaced or serviced their injectors. I suspect the solenoid in injector #1 was malfunctioning severely. The dead miss would come and go at random, and there were no specific conditions to set it off either. I hope this helps someone who may have a similar problem.
November 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up and sharing your experience
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
1995 325i Comments: Not yet but its on my to do list after work this evening. I really hope it will shed some light on a resolution.
October 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Ok, thanks. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
1995 325i Comments: Its back lol. It keeps missing then after about 15 minutes of driving it will come and go along with the CEL, then back to normal until the car has sat for a few hours, then back to 5 cylinders of fury. This is strange, I've never seen anything like it.
October 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you try to swap the injectors around? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
1995 325i Comments: Thanks for the reply. I was about to do that earlier this evening, just got back from vacation for 5 days. I hopped in my car, started and ran perfect even took it for a test drive and no issues, no CEL, no dead miss. The battery isn't dead and was not disconnected. I'm quite baffled but I'm still concerned the problem may be lurking. Thanks.
October 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Keep me in the loop as to what you find. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
1995 325i Comments: Forgot to mention, this happened at once, not slowly over time. Thanks
October 14, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Ok, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
1995 325i Comments: I've got a 1995 325i. I have a dead miss on cylinder 1, it does not fire. compression is good, spark plug, coil, and wires are good. I suspect a dead injector? the plug is dry when pulled. here's the weird part, when I pulled the codes from the DME, it gave me the code 1256 for injector #6. But cylinder 1 is where the problem is. I was thinking of just getting a reman set of OEM injectors. Thoughts? Thanks.
October 14, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Easier thing to do is swap an injector from another cylinder to the bad one. If the problem follows the injector, replace it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
frenchy Comments: The engine light on my 2000 323i lights on occasion when I press the accelerator and then the car loses power and starts to shake at around 100km/hr....It stops and seems to reset when I stop and restart the car. Is this a feul injector problem or fuel line or timing? The car has 184000km. I guess the best way to check for codes would be when the light is lit otherwise no codes show up. Thanks for having a site like this.
September 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light on? Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: Any easy way to identify which injector is leaking. I have scenario #1, where I am leaking into the manifold. A recent backfire into the intake manifold exploded my CCV. I want to replace the CCV, but not have the backfire happen again, so I need to identify which injectors are bad vs. buy all 8 new. Thanks for the write up!!!
August 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: By performing an injector drop test. This test determines the flow of each injector. You will need a fuel pressure gauge and tool to cycle the injector. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: Hi. Do you guys have a guide for removing the intake manifold on an m44? It seems like I need to remove it in order to get to the injectors on my 97 318ti. Thanks.
May 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See if this helps:

- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ryan Comments: i was upgrading my injectors on my 94 325i today. when i took the old ones out, i noticed a few minutes later that one of the injectors was missing one of the green tips. I'm unsure if it fell off in the hole or somewhere else under the hood. I'm extremely worried that it fell into the engine and will do damage but my buddy says its not a big problem, and that even if it did fall in it would just melt and smell like plastic for a bit and that there's no chance of breaking a valve and obviously the valves don't open enough to suck them in.. What should be my concerns here? would pulling the fuel rail and intake manifold be enough to find it if it did fall in? or is there something else that i need to remove to get down in there?
April 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The plastic cap can jam a valve open, causing it to come in contact with a piston, damaging the engine. I would confirm it did not fall into a cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Backfire 325i95E36 Comments: E36 BMW 325i Automatic backfires when you start it and when press gas it backfires and stop the engine,what can cause the problem of backfire?
April 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Engine timing can cause this. I would inspect mechanical engine timing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Brian Comments: In regard to your response to ps2k, does this mean the upper part of the intake manifold has to be removed to access the fuel lines in order to install a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure?
February 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, it looks like Wayne was helping someone access fuel injectors. The fuel pressure test port is accessible with the intake installed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jamani Comments: My 3series has problem, wen I put on the ignition it starts n stop even wen II try to trottle.
February 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Dan Comments: 95 325i Convertible: Black, sooty spark plugs wet with fuel 3rd set in 4 years. Seemingly floods in cold weather if turned off without getting to operating temperature. My first thought was leaky injectors originals, 163K miles, but what about a fuel pressure regulator, or even a coolant temp sensor? It's not throwing any fault codes. Thanks for your help!
January 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be coolant temp sensor. Also, leaking injectors may be the issue. I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if the system holds residual pressure. If so, test the coolant temp sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
328inlove Comments: I just went thru an ordeal with my 328i bmw's fuel injector/o ring. I noticed as my far back injector sprayed fuel all over the engine bay that the top oring was not seated square clip missing so I took it all apart pressed it all back together and it works fine....just a loose top o ring. I am gonna need those clips I know!
October 25, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
L7 Mike Comments: The plastic tip can be purchased separately. I own a injector reconditioning company in Orlando, FL and I can sell individuals or sets. If these are broken it can change the spray pattern, although their main purpose is to retain the o-ring. Good luck!!! michael@l7industries.net
July 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Something we didn't know, thanks for the heads up - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Cliff Comments: Can you run a BMW with the fuel injector tip broken?
May 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the tip is broken the spray pattern may change. I would replace the injector. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
aussi328i Comments: Hi everybody from australia,
please note: Ido not know how old all these messages are: rebuild kits are easy available on EBAY. On top of all fuel injector in the inlet is a very fine filter - needs to be replaced. Once you see how fine the filter mesh and tiny the fiter is you see why. To cleaan the filter buy a ultrasonic cleaner - Ebay agaib - $40. and clean all with acetone.
lubricate the orings with silicone grease. Pull out the oold filters by srewing gently a wood screw intothe filter and pull it out.
Ihave a set of spare injectors - change evry 50.K Km. its easy and safes fuel
April 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
187328 Comments: I have a 99 328 e36 recently I noticed a loud ticking on the top of the motor and traced it to the fuel rail and possibly an injector. I replaced all 6 injectors and I still get the same ticking noise. I googled the problem online and it seems very common but no solutions on how to fix it. Any suggestions????
September 30, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Locate the purge valve for your model, there will be alarge vacuum hose running to intake manifold and one toward charcoal canister, it has a two wire electrical connector. Check if this is the source of the ticking sound. As they become older, the sound of the valve pulsing becomes louder.


- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
chis Comments: that ok
July 5, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Okay - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Shannon Comments: Thank you for this diy. We'll be doing it later today. One point to note, in the diy it states, "Be careful of the injector tips Figure 13 they are made of plastic, and are not available separately from the $80 injectors. Do not damage them." I found and purchased the plastic pintle caps plus the rest of the o-rings and filters that make up a diy rebuild kit online, and they are specific to BMW Bosch injectors, except that they're yellow instead of green. I am very pleased I found the pintle caps because they break very easily.

Thanks, again. Cheers!
December 26, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional information. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
pablo arroyo Comments: I'll try it! Thanks!
August 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
CARLM325i Comments: Hi there

I have a 92 325i e36 automatic, the car seems to miss if i suddenly step on the gas and then fires normal as the revs build up.. i have tried everything,replacing fuel filter etc. including new sparkplugs, have tried ngk and bosch.. with new sparkplugs it drives well for about 3 days then starts its nonsense again. So the last resort is probably the injectors, do you think it could be this, i have tried pouring injector cleaner into the tank but does not help. Do you advise i have the injectors checked or what according to you could cause this issue.

THANKING YOU
REGARDS
CARL
April 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by trying to isolate the engine misfire. If it happening only under load it might be ignition related. if the check engine light is ON, there will be a fault code identifying the cylinder with an issue. This is a great place to start, as once you identify the cylinder, you can test the spark and fuel at it. If both are good, check engine compression. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Etre6 Comments: it is difficult to tell which small retaining wire you are talking about after figure 5 and before figure six. here is the quote: "Using a pair of needlenose pliers, reach in and disconnect the small retaining wires that hold the connectors onto the ends of the injector." Then you mention not dropping them. In the picture i cannot tell what you are talking about and when i opened my car up i am not able to locate this. I did not want to yank on the wire harness box in order to get the connector off the injector. Can you post a few more pics or help clarify this. I also looked at the bonus pics and was not able to pinpoint what you are talking about. thanks
April 23, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The wire being described is part of the electrical connector. At the bottom of the connector near the injector, there is a small wire built into the connector, this wire is used to retain the connector ontot he injector. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: I too, broke some of those plastic tips. 5 of them, to be exact. What will happen is I take off the last one and don't use any?
February 12, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: In your case. The pintle cap helps to direct fuel injector flow and help with the spray pattern. You need them on the end of your fuel injector. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mnc2fan Comments: You can actually buy the tips in an injector rebuild kit. But I don't think you can get them separately from BMW.
January 3, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I was able to find the later-style tips in the rebuild kits, but not the tips that match these particular injectors when I was looking for them. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
wally Comments: Are new O-rings too stiff to simply slip over the un-removed injector tips, say with a thin coating of engine oil as lubricant?
December 17, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: They are very stiff - I'd say it's impossible to do that without damaging the o-ring or the tip. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
ps2k Comments: how do you change the fuel injectors on a 318is? e36.
the intake manifold seems to be in the way. do i have to remove the entire intake manifold to change the injectors that i recently purchased from you guys?
any help would be much appreciated.
December 1, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, unfortunately on your 318, the aluminum manifold is indeed in the way. You need to loosen it / disconnect it, and then pull it back from the valve cover in order to access the row of injectors underneath. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Karl Comments: Is it at least remotely similar to 2.5l diesel engine? Thanks
November 20, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure, we don't have those engines here in the states. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Colorado Homer Comments: You say "With the injectors out of the manifold Figure 14 you can now take them to be cleaned and calibrated"- where/what kind of place do you take them to?
November 4, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are a variety of places that will do this, you'll have to check the local Yellow Pages for someone near by to you - I don't have a specific shop that I recommend. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
the67project Comments: Has anyone been able to find the small tips for the injectors... while removing the Injector from the fuel rail one of the tips broke and I really dont have the money to buy new tips for any that are going to break when I attempt to change the O-rings...
July 28, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure, but I think that you can replace the tips with standard non-funky looking ones from a regular BOSCH injector repair kit. I'm not 100% sure though... - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
chrisbec Comments: What is the part number of the small retaining wires that hold the connectors to the injectors? Thanks.
January 16, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
lothar Comments: i just solved my gas smell after hard driving problem with your article. i narrowed the smell down to the engine compartment after checking under the back seat. i took off the plastic covers and started the engine, manualy reving the engine caused a small amount of fuel to seap from the hose connecting to the fuel rail. i tightened the clamp and no more smell! thanks.
July 12, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
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