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BMW E39 Flex Disc Guibo Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW E39 Flex Disc Guibo Replacement

Kerry Jonsson

Time:

6 hours6 hrs

Tab:

$45

Talent:

****

Tools:

21mm wrenches (2), 10mm, 13mm wrench or socket with ratchet

Applicable Models:

BMW 525i Sedan/Wagon (2001-03)
BMW 528i Sedan/Wagon (1997-00)
BMW 530i Sedan (2001-03)
BMW 540i Sedan/Wagon (1997-03)

Parts Required:

Guibo flex disc, fasteners

Hot Tip:

Do not remove the exhaust but lower it a few inches by removing the mounts

Performance Gain:

Repair driveline vibration that relates to vehicle speed.

Complementary Modification:

Transmission mounts

Your engine produces torque and this passes though your transmission to your driveshaft. In between the transmission and the driveshaft is your Guibo flex disc. It is a round hard flexible disc that has three bolt connections to the transmission and three bolted connections to the driveshaft. This Guibo transfers the torque from the transmission flange to the driveshaft flange. It needs to be flexible as it helps isolate driveline vibrations from the left. When the Guibo goes bad you will develop a driveline vibration that relates to engine speed as opposed to engine rpm. In this tech article we will go over all the steps to replace the Guibo.

In order to replace your Guibo flex disc you need to raise and support the front axle or one whole side of your vehicle. We recommend you lift and support with jack stands both axles of your vehicle because you will be working completely underneath the car. See our tech article on jacking up and supporting your vehicle.

You do not have to remove the exhaust to do this procedure but it is much easier if you do. If you only drop the exhaust a few inches then you will have less room to work and you will be working is very uncomfortable positions under the car. I like to remove the exhaust, and in this tech article it has been removed.

This photo illustrates under the middle of the car looking back at the transmission.
Figure 1

This photo illustrates under the middle of the car looking back at the transmission. The Guibo flex disc (green arrow) is what we are going to remove.

Since you are removing the cross-member that supports the rear of the transmission use a jack stand to support it.
Figure 2

Since you are removing the cross-member that supports the rear of the transmission use a jack stand to support it. You may want to use a block of wood here to protect the pan but the transmission is only going to be resting on the jack stand and it should not move.

This photo illustrates looking straight up at the transmission mount cross-member.
Figure 3

This photo illustrates looking straight up at the transmission mount cross-member. Remove the eight 13mm fasteners (green arrows), six bolts and two nuts. The cross-member will drop down slightly.

Working at the left side of the cross-member with it dropped down slightly unclip the wiring harness clips (green arrows) attached to it.
Figure 4

Working at the left side of the cross-member with it dropped down slightly unclip the wiring harness clips (green arrows) attached to it.

Swing the cross-member down and unclip the wiring harness clips (green arrows) on the right side.
Figure 5

Swing the cross-member down and unclip the wiring harness clips (green arrows) on the right side. One clips has already been taken off.

Use two 21mm wrenches to loosen the three fasteners from the Guibo to the transmission output flange.
Figure 6

Use two 21mm wrenches to loosen the three fasteners from the Guibo to the transmission output flange.

Use the same 21mm wrenches to remove the three fasteners from the Guibo to the driveshaft flange.
Figure 7

Use the same 21mm wrenches to remove the three fasteners from the Guibo to the driveshaft flange.

You will not be able to remove the Guibo bearing because you cannot move the driveshaft back far enough to allow the Guibo to slide out of the side.
Figure 8

You will not be able to remove the Guibo bearing because you cannot move the driveshaft back far enough to allow the Guibo to slide out of the side. You must drop the center of the driveshaft.

This photo illustrates the front of the driveshaft area looking up at the heat shield.
Figure 9

This photo illustrates the front of the driveshaft area looking up at the heat shield. Remove the two fasteners (green arrows) that hold up the heat shield that protects the driveshaft. These fasteners have been changed by a previous mechanic. They are usually 10mm speed nuts that may have been damaged in a previous repair. ThePictures here are taken with the exhaust removed for photographic purposes. While it is recommended that you remove the exhaust first you can get away with just temporarily removing the rear mounts and allowing the exhaust to drop a few inches. This will give you more access to the heat shields and driveshaft in the following steps.

This photo illustrates the middle of the car looking up at the exhaust.
Figure 10

This photo illustrates the middle of the car looking up at the exhaust. If you haven't done so already by removing the exhaust, remove the center exhaust support bracket by removing the five 13mm fasteners (green arrows) that mount the bracket to the body of the car.

Working further down the back of the driveshaft remove the fastener (green arrow) that holds up the heat shield.
Figure 11

Working further down the back of the driveshaft remove the fastener (green arrow) that holds up the heat shield. These fasteners have been changed from a previous repair. They are usually 10mm speed nuts that may have been damaged in the previous repair. We are showing the heat shield with the exhaust removed for photographic purposes but you can allow the heat shield to rest on the exhaust.

Working at the back of the driveshaft remove the final heat shield by removing the two fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 12

Working at the back of the driveshaft remove the final heat shield by removing the two fasteners (green arrows). The original fasteners were damaged from a previous repair and pictured here are two substitute fasteners. The fasteners are usually 10mm speed nuts that you can remove with a socket or wrench.

Working at the center of the driveshaft remove the two 13mm fasteners
Figure 13

Working at the center of the driveshaft remove the two 13mm fasteners (blue arrows) that mount the center support bearing to the body of the car. Let the center support bearing (green arrow) drop down and rest it on the exhaust at an angle.

Working at the front of the driveshaft again hold the drive shaft and move it in the direction of the blue arrow.
Figure 14

Working at the front of the driveshaft again hold the drive shaft and move it in the direction of the blue arrow. This will now give enough space to remove the Guibo flex disc from in between the transmission output flange and the driveshaft flange. Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Install new Guibo flex disc, position center of driveshaft to mount the center bearing to the body of the car. Install the 6 nut and bolt combinations that hold the Guibo flex disc to the transmission output flange and the driveshaft. Install all heat shields, transmission mount cross-member with harness clips, exhaust mounts and center support bracket. Make sure all fasteners are torqued to specifications as you reassemble everything.

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Comments and Suggestions:
kevin Comments: my driveshaft is not moving forward enough to bolt the gubio flat to the transmission when I tighten the bolts the gubio bows towards the tranny... any sugestions
November 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Loosen the center bearing mount on the body. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
4thBMW Comments: BTW, if you have a trick tip to R&R that E39 center support bearing *with driveshaft on the car* please pass it by me. Also, on the trans. support cross member, how does that vib damper hanging off of it work????? magic?
May 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See this article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/66-SUSPEN-Driveshaft_Rebuild/66-SUSPEN-Driveshaft_Rebuild.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts  
4thBMW Comments: Boy, I'm glad you wrote this up as I only want to R&R the flex-disc '02 540iT. Noticed hard rubber, hairline cracks when servicing my trans.Very slight body vibration in fwd. at low speed only. I'd do the center support bearing but PIA to remove and looks/ feels OK. Good, I'll order *all* the parts from you....
May 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Arnold Comments: My BMW e 39 1997 model Automatic transmission vibrates in the centre of the vehicle and I changed the centre bearing twice then what will be the cause of this?unfortunately my car doesn't have a capping rubber
April 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: YOu could have a faulty driveshaft joint. Check the connection at the differentail. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Andrew Comments: Was this DIY done on a 540? Looking at getting this done to my buddies car. Would you recommend all 4 jacks or can it be done by just lifting the front end up high enough?
August 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that is a 540. I would think maybe, if you can fit under the vehicle to work. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Cmoss Comments: The vibration is coming from the rear of the wagon, all new tires and struts, I was reading a blog where some one had an issue with a frozen rear axle joint, I got under the car and was able to shift both rear axle shafts back and forth, I think this is normal travel. So I am somewhat focused on the drive shaft now. 2001 525iat
January 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it is the rear, have tire balance checked. Also have the rear drive axles. You will want to see if one of the joints in binding when rotating. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Cmoss Comments: Can you give more detail as to when this flex disc goes bad,
I have a vibration at 68 to 73 MPH, could this flex disc be my issue?
January 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Where does the vibration feel like it is coming from? What area of the vehicle? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
joshp Comments: should the 6 bolts that hold the flex disk in place be replaced as well or can they be reused? thanks for all of the write ups, they have been Extremely helpful!
March 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is recommended that the locking nuts are replaced. Most times, people reuse them. Personally, I like to replace all locking fasteners when I remove them - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mjbennett9 Comments: I saw you provided torque for the 3 series. You mention to torgue here in figure 14, but none are provided. Do you have the torque values for the 5 Guibo?

Thx
March 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I do not have them handy. I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mjbennett9 Comments: In figure 9, you mention remove the rear mounts. are you talking about the two nuts on the heat shield? what rear mounts? pic?
March 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The exhaust mounted and lowering the exhaust, as noted. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Sat 12/3/2016 02:06:09 AM