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BMW Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$200

Tools:

Set of sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers

Applicable Models:

BMW 325i Sedan (2006)
BMW 325xi Sedan/Wagon (2006)
BMW 328i Coupe/Conv (2007-13)
BMW 328i xDrive Coupe (2009-13)
BMW 328i xDrive Sedan (2009-11)
BMW 328i xDrive Wagon (2009-12)
BMW 328i/xi Sedan (2007-11)
BMW 328i/xi Wagon (2007-12)
BMW 328xi Coupe (2007-13)
BMW 330i/xi Sedan (2006)
BMW 335d/i/xi Sedan (2007-11)
BMW 335i xDrive Coupe (2009-13)
BMW 335i xDrive Sedan (2009-11)
BMW 335i/is Coupe/Conv (2007-13)
BMW 335xi Coupe (2007-13)

Parts Required:

Intake manifold gaskets, aluminum fastener set

Hot Tip:

Work with a cool engine.

Performance Gain:

Repair vacuum leaks from old gaskets

Complementary Modification:

Replace crankcase vent valve

E90 models utilize a runner profile style gasket for the intake manifold. Over time the gaskets harden from heat or they swell from oil contamination. If you have hard to find vacuum leak, replace your intake manifold gaskets. If you find oil inside your intake manifold, replace the crankcase breather valve. Clean the inside of intake manifold thoroughly and be careful not to get any debris inside cylinder head during the procedure. Removing the intake manifold will also give you easy access to the engine starter or knock sensors.

When preparing to remove your intake manifold, be sure to have all the correct parts on hand and leave enough time in the day. I suggest planning for 1/2  day. The crankcase breather valve is located at the rear of intake manifold; there is a breather pipe that runs from valve cover to the crankcase breather valve. Nine out of ten times when removing the intake manifold this breather hose breaks, so be sure to have one on hand.

In this tech article, I will go over how to replace the intake manifold on a normally aspirated engine. You could use this for a turbo-charged model, however there will be differences. See our tech article on throttle body replacing and refer to the section for turbo-charged models, this will help to instruct you on how to remove the intake pipes and some engine peripherals. Then you can use the remainder of this article as a general guide.

Working at front of radiator support, remove two T20 Torx fasteners for the intake duct.
Figure 1

Working at front of radiator support, remove two T20 Torx fasteners for the intake duct. (green arrows)

Working at intake air duct connection at air filter housing, using a small flathead screwdriver, release retaining tabs on each side and pull duct off.
Figure 2

Working at intake air duct connection at air filter housing, using a small flathead screwdriver, release retaining tabs on each side and pull duct off.

Then, pull intake duct out of radiator support and remove from vehicle.
Figure 3

Then, pull intake duct out of radiator support and remove from vehicle. (green arrow)

Then loosen hose clamp (green arrow) and remove two 10mm air filter housing fasteners.
Figure 4

Then loosen hose clamp (green arrow) and remove two 10mm air filter housing fasteners. (yellow arrows)

Disconnect mass air flow sensor electrical connector by releasing tab with small flathead screwdriver and pulling connector out of sensor.
Figure 5

Disconnect mass air flow sensor electrical connector by releasing tab with small flathead screwdriver and pulling connector out of sensor. (green arrow)

Remove air filter housing from vehicle by lifting up and disconnecting duct from mass air flow sensor.
Figure 6

Remove air filter housing from vehicle by lifting up and disconnecting duct from mass air flow sensor.

Next, you will have to remove the power steering reservoir from its mounting bracket.
Figure 7

Next, you will have to remove the power steering reservoir from its mounting bracket. You do not have to disconnect the hoses. Remove two 10mm mounting fasteners. (green arrows) Then remove two sliver washers from power steering reservoir grommets. Be careful not to lose the washers.

Working next to power steering reservoir, unclip vacuum hose clip by unclipping and opening.
Figure 8

Working next to power steering reservoir, unclip vacuum hose clip by unclipping and opening. (green arrow)

Remove power steering reservoir (green arrow) from mounting bracket and guide under vacuum hose (yellow arrow) and lay aside.
Figure 9

Remove power steering reservoir (green arrow) from mounting bracket and guide under vacuum hose (yellow arrow) and lay aside.

Working at throttle body intake air duct, pull off vacuum hose.
Figure 10

Working at throttle body intake air duct, pull off vacuum hose. (green arrow)

Working at throttle body, loosen intake air duct hose clamp (green arrow) using a flathead screwdriver.
Figure 11

Working at throttle body, loosen intake air duct hose clamp (green arrow) using a flathead screwdriver. You will have reach from the firewall side to access clamp with screwdriver. A shorter flathead screwdriver works best.

Pull air duct straight off throttle body.
Figure 12

Pull air duct straight off throttle body. (green arrow) Note installation position for easier reinstallation.

Working throttle housing, disconnect electrical connector by pressing plastic release tab and pulling off.
Figure 13

Working throttle housing, disconnect electrical connector by pressing plastic release tab and pulling off. (green arrow)

Press hose release (white tab) (green arrow) and pull brake vacuum hose apart.
Figure 14

Press hose release (white tab) (green arrow) and pull brake vacuum hose apart.

Pull wiring harnesses and battery cable out of rubber holders.
Figure 15

Pull wiring harnesses and battery cable out of rubber holders. (green arrows) Then disconnect MAP sensor electrical connector by pressing release tab and pulling off. (yellow arrow)

Working at oil filter housing, disconnect oil pressure sensor by pressing retaining spring and pulling off.
Figure 16

Working at oil filter housing, disconnect oil pressure sensor by pressing retaining spring and pulling off. (green arrow)

Working at rear of intake manifold, remove fuel line T25 Torx mounting fastener (green arrow), then disconnect crankcase breather hose from valve cover by squeezing collar and pulling off (yellow arrow).
Figure 17

Working at rear of intake manifold, remove fuel line T25 Torx mounting fastener (green arrow), then disconnect crankcase breather hose from valve cover by squeezing collar and pulling off (yellow arrow). This is the breather hose that breaks 99% of the time. Be sure to have a new one hand.

Next, remove the two electrical connectors at top of intake manifold.
Figure 18

Next, remove the two electrical connectors at top of intake manifold. (yellow arrow). Press the release tab and slide them down and away from intake to remove. Once these are off, you have to remove the wiring harness junction box under throttle body. (green arrow)

The wiring harness junction box (green arrow) is held on by two tabs on the metal mounting bracket.
Figure 19

The wiring harness junction box (green arrow) is held on by two tabs on the metal mounting bracket. To remove it, slide it away from throttle body while releasing tabs. I like to use a small flathead screwdriver.

Remove seven 11mm intake manifold nuts.
Figure 20

Remove seven 11mm intake manifold nuts. (green arrows) Once fasteners have been removed, lift intake manifold up and off cylinder head to gain access to items behind it.

Slide intake manifold away from cylinder head to access hoses and electrical connectors.
Figure 21

Slide intake manifold away from cylinder head to access hoses and electrical connectors. The green arrow points to an electrical connector you have to disconnect, the yellow arrow points to a crankcase breather hose you have to disconnect. You'll have to reach around the rear of intake manifold and feel your way to the hose. Squeeze collar and pull it off crankcase breather valve.

Next, reach behind the crankcase breather valve (yellow arrow) and disconnect the crankcase breather valve heater element electrical connectors (green arrow).
Figure 22

Next, reach behind the crankcase breather valve (yellow arrow) and disconnect the crankcase breather valve heater element electrical connectors (green arrow). This photo shows the intake removed, it is nearly impossible to see and you will have to feel your way around.

Working below throttle body, disconnect purge solenoid electrical connector (yellow arrow) and remove hose (green arrow).
Figure 23

Working below throttle body, disconnect purge solenoid electrical connector (yellow arrow) and remove hose (green arrow). Take one last look and check that all items have been disconnected and there is nothing left to snag the intake manifold. Remove intake manifold from engine. Once removed, seal intake ports to prevent debris from entering cylinder head. Before installing, replace intake manifold gaskets. Remove by prying out with small flathead screwdriver. Install new gaskets by pressing in, check that all gaskets are properly seated before installing intake manifold. If you plan to replace your crankcase breather valve, now is a good time. You have great access to it and can easily connect the hoses. See our tech article on crankcase breather valve replacing. Remove item you used to seal intake ports on cylinder head. Then install cylinder head to engine and tighten fasteners in an alternating pattern. Reinstall removed items in reverse order of removal. Double check wiring harness routing and fuel line connections. Once complete, let engine idle for about 10 minutes, if you left something disconnected or an item is mis-routed, it is best to find out before driving.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Johnc Comments: I found where the "mystery" wire went. The wire connects to the air quality sensor. Found it in the article about pulling the engine cover.
September 27, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
jay Comments: Replaced the starter, which means pulling the intake manifold. The car started hard, RPMs fluctuate at idle, and it has a general lack of power. There is a clicking like excessive valve clearance. Cannot hear any hissing noises.I sprayed the manifold with aerosol lubricant, and no idle change.

I used a code scanner, and the results were Cyl 3 & 5 misfire, and general multiple misfires.
The owner says it was running rough before the starter quit, so no telling if something was wrong before.

Any ideas?
September 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a vacuum leak, aerosol spray can start a fire and will not identify a vacuum leak. Is the check engine light on? I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
johnc1 Comments: As a test, I posted the question on the "6,7,8 Series" technical forum. The thread is titled "engine compartment wire, where's it go?". The picture came through OK.
September 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've attached the photo in my response. The connector doesn't look familiar. Can you share the wire colors, amount of terminals, along with year and model. I may be able to figure it out then. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
johnc1 Comments: Ok, I registered, and resized the picture. Trying it again
September 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Photo still not showing up. Is it a jpeg? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
johnc Comments: The car is a 2006 325i. I will try the picture again. Do I have to be a registered member to post pictures?
September 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, you should not have to register. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
johnc Comments: Let's try this with a picture I hope
I have a "mystery" wire. It is on the passenger side, and was attached to the black cover for the whit electrical junction box. I think it was an unused wire and that is why I did not mark it. Anyone got an idea?
September 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is no photo attached. Also, the year and model of vehicle would be helpful too. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
johnc Comments: I have a "mystery" wire. It is on the passenger side, and was attached to the black cover for the whit electrical junction box. I think it was an unused wire and that is why I did not mark it. Anyone got an idea?
September 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No photo attached. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Lancair Comments: I replaced my starter and intake manifold gaskets today. I must say, the most arduous task was removing the wiring harness junction box. What a stupid design.

Some tips for those doing the same.
1. Removed the throttle body entirely. It will give you clear access to the junction box tabs.
2. Push down HARD from the top with a big screw driver. lubricate first. Pushing down from the top and pushing out from behind will move the box out.
3. Before replacing, cover tabs with never-seize.
4. While the manifold is out, remove the junction box bracket screws will be very tight, never-seize and put back hand tight.
4. Use a scotch pad to clean the intake and starter connection if replacing.
5. Lubricate all plastic connections don't spray terminals.
6. Label all work so you don't loose track of where things go.
September 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
johnc Comments: Nick,
My car has the electrically heated breather tube to the valve cover. Do you know why this is heated?
September 7, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: To reduce moisture in the system and prevent freezing.. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Vinny Comments: After installing the new starter I got a slight vibrate anx rpm goes slightly up when the car is idle at stop light or when driving what could it be?
August 31, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Something may be disconnected or loose. Check the hoses and electrical connectors. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
milo28 Comments: Did anyone else have trouble with ac after removing manifold and starter?
August 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I haven't.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Vinny Comments: Is it really necessary to replace crankcase vent valve? I pull out the bottom two end connector and didn't touch the one that was on the way back with no space to squeeze the connector out. Or is it just to be on the safe side since its 99.9% of the time it break?
August 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it not faulty, you don't have too. But most times it is brittle and fails shortly after. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Z Comments: the hose that I see on ebay or so is around 50$ I see a similar one for 30$ with ut the "sensor cable" can I reuse my current cable from the broken hose?...
August 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not sure what goes on on ebay, ask the seller what the part you are interested is for. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Z Comments: HI Nick... could you give me the part number for the
Crankcase Vent Hose or the breather hose.. unsure what it's actually called.. If the air intake is on my right the hose would be on the top left of the manifold I guess close to where the washer fluid tubes go?... will you please provide me with the part number?.. and also does it have a sensor?... the one i broke just have a wire going out of it.. I've temporarily sealed it but have had the Engine light on, the code shows throttle body is leaking air.. I guess I should have replaced the gasket.. which I assume I should have replaced the gasket for the manifold toowhile replacing started in a 06 325i
August 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The wire is for the heater. it is a breather hose. I’m not the best with part numbers.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Dave Comments: If you're stuck at the junction box step 19, I recommend removing the whole metal plate, it's just two T25 screws about 3" to either side of the throttle body, into the intake manifold. I struggled for 30+ mins with this step following the guide before reading this tip elsewhere. Great guide - got the intake manifold off so I could change my starter!
July 9, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
kai Comments: almost got the intake manifold out, but the 99% snap rate breather hose is getting in the way, i can't detach that for whatever reasons, is there any alternative i can get around that maybe? i already bought an replacement on hand so should i just cut the plastic off?
July 2, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have a replacement, you can cut the hose. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kai Comments: didn't see the 2 connectors in Figure 18 for my 2008 e90 328i. i skipped to 19 taking the advice of removing the entire throttle body off based on some replies. Also, i couldn't remove the vacuum hose at the rear white clip pressed but hose didn't came off, white clip did not went back to original position Figure 14. So i detach it from the front end. I am not sure if that will cause any leakage when i assemble it back.


Project is still ongoing.......
June 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Let us know how it works out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Scott A Comments: Do you sell the breather hose that you speak of breaking most times?
May 7, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 11-15-7-522-931-M9 Search this number on pelicanparts.com - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Jb Comments: Is the breather hose that breaks 99% of the time the same thing as a crankcase return pipe?

And the other hose under the manifold is the crankcase connecting line?
May 4, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The pipe that runs along the rear of the intake manifold breaks frequently. Not sure I know what you are referring to in the second question. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Zack Comments: For step 19 take off the throttle body off saves the headache. It's only 4 screws. Pictures included.
May 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Alex Comments: Yes. Thanks. I'll try that. Can you send my info to usmc2015 assuming he entered in an email and you have access to it?
April 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I do not have his info. Once I answer the question, it is gone. I can't go back and find it, at least on my end. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Alex Comments: is there anyway to get me in touch w usmc2015? I'm having the same issue after replacing the starter, multiple cylinders misfiring, and would like to see if he found a resolution
April 19, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unfortunately not. Unless he shared his contact info publicly.

If you have a misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
usmc2015 Comments: Update: after replacing the valve cover breather hose and intake manifold gaskets. It is still running rough on idle. I took it to autozone for a diagnose and all 6 cylinders are misfiring. Before I take it to bmw on Monday, I was wondering if there is anything else I can try to fix the misfiring problem.
March 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to see what is causing the misfire. Since it is all cylinders, I would suspect vacuum leak or fuel delivery. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
usmc2015 Comments: Thank You in advance!
March 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
usmc2015 Comments: I replaced the starter on my 07 328i with n51. Put everything back together, doubled checked every connection. Crank case breather hosePart#:11157559528 did break, but didn't have a spare one so I wrapped it with electrical tape. Started the car, starter worked, car ran for 15 seconds before it started running rough on idle. I took everything apart again and made sure everything was connected properly. I highly doubt the crank case vent hose is causing this, I tightly put it back together with electrical tape and sealed it. I ran out of trouble shooting ideas. My next option will be taking it to bmw for them to look at it. Is there anything else I can check that might fix the rough on idle after starter replace? Also I did not have any intake manifold gaskets on hand but did notice a small leak.
March 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Replace the vent hose. Without you have unmetered and incorrect crankcase pressure. Once that is fixed you can address possible additional issues. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Teson Comments: As predicted by you breather hose on valve cover desintegrated on contact is there any way to change that hose without having to remove manifold ? In advance thanks for the help !
January 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, I have done it many times. It is a tight fit.

get the old hose off, then feed the new one into place, bottom first. Snap it into place, then attach it at the top. Most of the work along the intake will be by feel. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Rocky Comments: What does the electrical connector do in figure 13?

Ever since I replaced my starter, my red brake light warning has been on. But brakes are good, could this connector be the reason? My cousin was helping me, not sure if he reconnected it back together properly.

Otherwise awesome job! Thnx.
January 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Fig 13 is the throttle housing electrical connector. I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Justin Comments: Having issue with figure 19. Can't find tabs as the box is snuggly tucked under the throttle body. Any tips
January 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's not easy. you have to release the two black tabs, hold them, then slide the junction off the bracket. See comments in this thread, as this has been discussed quite a bit. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
AZ330i2006 Comments: Should I follow this procedure to remove/replace the fuel tank/evap purge valve addressing an SES light, or is there a more straight-forward/simple solution?
January 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff:
We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it.

You can use this article to locate the position and replace it from there. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JP Comments: Great write up and comment section...you guys rock!...reading all the way through the comments and issues really helped on my tear down and reassembly

JP
December 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Rob Comments: I have never been soo stressed in my life! so after installing a new start in the 06 325i, the mechanic says it needs a new crank sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, bank 1 sensor 2, bank 2 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 1. he installed everything and I drove it home last night. Today morning when I tried to start it it was idling rough especially in park or neutral. When I turned the car off and tried to restart it it doesn't start! the lights and radio work but there is no instrument pwr and obiosuly no crank,the clock shows it reset. PLEASE HELP NICK, this car is driving me insane and broke.
November 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Let's focus on the starting issue. Could be as simple as the connection at the start came off, or a faulty new starter. Have the shop check their work and confirm the starter is receiving the signal to crank the engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rob Comments: I installed the starter on my 2006 325i and now there's a 3-5 sec crank before it starts. The traction light, handbrake light, run flat light and red gear with exclamation light are also on. the car is in some sort of limp mode and doesn't go past the 1st gear. Could someone please help me! I'm pretty sure all the sensors and hoses are in place. I broke one of the crankcase hoses and installed a new one as well. if one of them is not o properly or has a crack would it cause the car to do all this
November 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Assuming something is not connected properly, there will be a fault code to indicate what that may be. I would start by checking the vehicle for fault codes. If multiple systems are not working properly, fault codes will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JZ Comments: should the o-rings for the intake manifold and throttle body be lubricated by anything or are they to be installed dry. Thanks.
November 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: BMW does not mention adding a lubricant, so dry it is. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JC Comments: In the last step you say "install cylinder head to engine". I think you meant to say "install manifold to cylinder head". :
November 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for catching that. I appreciate it. I will have the article updated.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Matt Comments: My 06 330xi e90 is consuming oil. I replaced the OFHG and breather element hoping to cure the problem but it is still using oil, about a litre every 1000km. I don't replace the breather hoses but I inspected them for cracks and all seemed to be in good condition. Is there another reason why the engine would be losing oil? I've checked the valve cover, and oil pan gaskets and they don't appear to be leaking. I don't have any blue smoke and the plugs don't appear to look like their burning oil. Any help woul be appreciated.
October 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A liter every 600 to 1000 miles is considered normal these days. If you do not have a leak or smoke, this may be normal consumption. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Matt Comments: Great DIY! Couldn't have done the job without it. One thing I thought I would share. Like other DIYer's I had a difficult time removing the junction box from the metal mounting bracket. I nearly snapped the plastic slot on the box during my attempt. As an alternative I simply removed the metal mounting bracket itself. Its held by two T-25 torx screws. The front one is visable and easy to remove. The rear one is a little more difficult and you have to feel it blindly to get the torx bit in. This was probably the most difficult part of the job and I found removing the bracket made it much easier. Thanks again for the write up, much appreciated!!!
October 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
BimmerNewbie Comments: I removed the intake manifold to replace two of the crankcase ventilation hoses and changed the intake manifold gaskets at the same time. I thought I was pretty careful about tagging all of the connectors but when I reassembled the intake I had 1 cable without a home! It originates from the wiring harness junction box below the throttle body. Where does this connector mate? There are 3 conductors, look like yellow/black/orange, I'm attaching a picture as well. Thanks for any help in advance!!
October 14, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That plugs into the junction on the end of the intake manifold, see step 22.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
sredwine Comments: Great DIY! I have a few comments-the connectors box removal is really tough-my tabs were so stiff I had to use two screwdrivers and almost break the straps! Removing the throttle body REALLY helps. The fuel line and at least one wire are held to the back of the manifold by clips. The only breather hose I had to disconnect was the big one at the back of the cylinder head. 2007 and later cars will be like this. Only other flimsy hose was the small one attached to the box at the bottom in my pic of the manifold-fuel tank vent line, I suppose. I had to flex one of the tabs that the rubber wiring harness hooks had been slipped over to allow a wire to stay with the harness.
September 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. I like it when articles users share their tips, adds a lot to the article.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Huey Comments: No Check engine light yet and I always get rough idle at cold start but it goes aways after 30 sec.. I tried everything lol... at the rear of the manifold but not enough space. Throttle housing was too tight also.. I had to semi-insert the intake manifold, put it in certain angle. I think that was the worst part of the job.
September 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to seal the air leak. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Huey Comments: Hi there,

I followed these instruction to replace my starter and it was great. I did broke my breather hose. I really had hard time with the other hose that is under the intake manifold #4 in picture attached. I managed put in back in place enough tight with the little space i had LOL PITA. I did not heard any clip sound tho. What are the symptoms if this hose does is not proprely attached ? would you suggest me to buy a new one and replace it but repeating all these step ? or there is a way to install it by under the car ?

Thanks
September 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I have replaced them by removing the throttle housing, then jamming my arm in there. It can be done, but is a pain. If the hose is broken, you will have idle issues and check engine light. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JImmys Comments: o man. I ended up taking the throttle body off and prying the junction box off. easy but losts of hours spent figuring our those tabs. s
August 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The tabs are a pain. Once you have worked with them, they are a snap every other time. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ptad7440 Comments: I removed my intake manifold to install a new starter. Everything went great thanks to these detailed instructions; however, I am getting warning that gas cap is not sealed and the service engine light is on. Any ideas as to what might be causing this? And yes, I did check the gas cap and it was fine. I also had a tough time taking off the crankcase valve heater element electrical connectors and I am not sure if I put them back in the same connector. Does it matter for them?
August 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will want to try to get them connected int he same position. Wire length is specific to connector location and could put unwanted stress on the harness.
Check if the purge solenoid is properly connected. If it is, you may have developed a large evap leak unrelated to your repair.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
John Comments: Bad Link Below:
http://s416.photobucket.com/user/HeyUFaque/media/photo-1.jpg.html
July 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
John Comments: Hi, I replaced my starter but now I'm getting a long crank - I thought it was b/c of the crankcase breather hose that was mentioned above, but after replacing that hose the same long crank symptom continues and after 3-5 secs the engine turns over. I also have some smoke around the new breather hose, but I believe that was from excess oil when removing the hose.

I labeled all the wires I removed and have been through the steps twice already and I have this extra unlabeled connector that I have no idea where it goes:

The number on the plug is BMW 7511984 but I can't find anything on the internet for this. The wire is located in the wiring harness directly under the throttle body and it roughly 12 inches in length so I assume it has to go somewhere relatively close.

http://s416.photobucket.com/user/Hey...oto-1.jpg.html

Please help!
July 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am drawing a blank, the connector looks familiar. The best bet wouldbe to check for fault codes, there will be one stored for the component that is unplugged, then you will be able to get it to the right spot. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BMWlove86 Comments: Im having a hard time figuring out what the part is for the aluminum fastener set
July 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: They are sold in kits, for the specific repair. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
russdx Comments: Hello, How much of this guide could I use to remove my inlet manifold on a 2011 e92 325d.

Thank you
July 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think none, they are different engines. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Z Comments: did i mention.. that I did destroy the breather hose..insane price on ebay 60$ mine has a cable going through it also... I sealed the breather hose with super glue and other sealentwith hose inside to close and leaks would that cause the engine sign and mild shaking odor ??? Thanks!!!
July 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The broken hose is likely your issue. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Z Comments: this is an awesome write up... my problem was that I had to replace the starter.. which I just did ... finally closed up everything night time kinda darkI have yet to install the long filter by the windshield, but as soon as I start the car.. its shaking a little and I have the engine light on... just realized that I missed one bolt by the windshield on the header... would that cause a problem?
July 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback.

Be sure all the bolts are in place. Double check your electrical and vacuum hose connections. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Chris Comments: For step 19 it is easier if you remove the throttle body removing four bolts could save quite a bit of time
July 9, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
FreddyZ Comments: Do you have anymore detailed steps for replacing the Crankcase vent valve on a 2006 e90 325i? Thank you!
July 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here you go:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/ENGINE-Crankcase_Breather_Valve_Replacement/ENGINE-Crankcase_Breather_Valve_Replacement.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
gigapapa Comments: I got stuck on figure #19 as well. Any additional picture can be very helpful, cannot figure out how to remove the plastic junction box. Thank you all
June 26, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The junction box slides off the bracket toward the strut tower. It can be tough, as you have to hold down the tabs as you slide it off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
CaboBimmer Comments: BMW E90 325i 2006. Euopean specs 3 stage intake manifold.
Finally I was able to remove all hoses what a pita and remove the intake manifold but when I removed it I heard and feel something big rolling inside, so I removed the throttle body and the DISA valve 1 part number 11617579114 adjuster unit and the flap was off! I know that I have to replace it but what's worries me is that I CANT FIND THE METAL SCREW That hold the flap from the top center. I hope it didn't go inside of the engine since my car was driving good and during the pulling, lifting, moving the manifold during this DIY I didn't hear anything rolling inside but I don't know if that metal screw felt now or time ago and the flat didn't fall until now.. I saw also intake vents 5-6 with some oil leak. There is a bit of oil 1/4 of a quart may be inside of the manifold. Can I clean it with engine degreaser and warm dish soap bath? I can't take out DISA Valve 2 part number 11617560538 since the head of the bolt that secure it in place is gone or I have no idea how to take it out. Please help. Thanks
June 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you suspect something fell into the engine. Inspect the intake ports and cylinders using a boroscope. Remove the spark plugs when inspecting the cylinders.

I would use lint-free rags to soak up the engine oil. Then clean it with soap and water. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
BryanG Comments: More info on #19 would be helpful. Do the junction metal tabs get pushed up or down? And in the front or middle since they go through 2 plastic bars? Thanks
June 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The tabs are pushed down, away from the plastic retaining collars. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Lat Comments: I got stuck on figure 19 but managed to get it off by pushing down on the junction box and slightly bending the metal tabs to make more room. Then i took a flat head and a hammer and created space between the male and female connectors. Not the prettiest way but it got it off and didn't cause any damage
June 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Cabobimmer Comments: Thank you so much for all your help. I can't find the fasteners nut set could you please guide me where to find them? E90 325i 2006
June 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jethro Comments: Thanks Nick, do y'all have a tutorial on here for troubleshooting an A/C system? It was working 100% before the starter issue...no issues ever... I have already taken the intake back out and put it back in, just to see. It gets easier.
I can't get a fix on which fuse controls that circuit, this fuse diagram is impossible to interpret. I am systematically taking them all out and ohming them out and putting them back. Slow going.
June 5, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No we don't. A/C repair are professional level, due to possibility of polluting and danger to yourself working with refrigerants. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jethro Comments: *on a 2007 328i
June 4, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jethro Comments: I just finished the starter change outgreat play-by-play instructions, by the way and now my A/C compressor clutch isn't engaging when I turn it on. Is one of the electrical connections taken loose in this project in that circuit?
June 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't believe so. The A/C compressor does run through the main engine harness, but I don't think it is disconnected during the intake manifold procedure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Peter Comments: Sorry, Nick, I should have mentioned the model. It's a 2006 325i March 2005 production, as I recall. Thanks for the follow-up and diagram. So, you think that the crankcase breather valve should also be a part to have on hand?
June 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I apologize if you listed the vehicle, I only see your most current comment, hard to keep track of it in my head.

If you are only weary of hoses, just grab the hoses, that is if the valve it functioning OK, you should not have to replace it. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Peter Comments: So, it sounds like I should order "Crankcase Vent Hose - Vent Valve to Valve Cover" 11-15-7-522-931, but you mentioned that other hoses are likely to break as well. Which others would you recommend? 11-61-7-522-933?
June 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See attached image, I suggest parts numbered: 1, 2, 3, 4, 9. I don't know what vehicle you have, so I cannot be sure about part numbers. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right parts. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Davin Comments: Hi I have a 2006 e90 330xi and have just changed the starter mine is doing the same thing as yours Kang. Takes 3 times as long to start rough idle and no power. Everything is hooked up correct and I have undone my batt to reset it. Any info would be helpful hooked up my scan tool but no codes are being thrown after the batt reset but still in the same condition.
June 1, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would confirm the battery is good. If cranking ROM is slow the engine will not start. I would also check that the new starter is good quality and cranking the engine fast enough. You need about 300 RPM to start/ - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kang Comments: Hi
I have the same problem with Mr you after removed and replaced starter on my 2006 bmw 325i . It takes longer crank to start the car and I have all kinds of trouble code Pope up on my display along with gear with I symbol and my car is running very rough.. I took the intake manifold off again and double checked all the wire connectors and vacuum hoses and put back together but condition still exists. I don't know what the problem is but looks like me and Mr you and some other people are doing something wrong since we are having same issue. Please help me fix this issue. Btw Mr you, have you fixed your problem and found what was the problem?
May 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the problem popped up after the starter, you may have plugged something in wrong or left something unplugged. I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jimmydblock Comments: yesterday i took my bimmer apart . couldnt get the junction box off of the throttle body at all tried wiggling so i skipped it . also didnt get the 99% time breather hose off yet, i jumped the car and tried starting it.

i put my voltmeter leads on the starter i read 12.2-12.5v. nothing happened in starter. so im guessing its actually bad. =- . i have yet to finish, have to work today sigh. them hose clamps scare me i'm breaking it. suggestions on junction box? taking hoses off? possible to skip any steps n still get starter out?

{also i noticed that the intake manifold gasket 2 of them look as if they were leaking at the bottom so YES gasket change is necessary people. }
also i didnt have a vacumm hose on the duct at the throttle body. that normal?
May 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have to press the locking tabs while sliding the junction box off the bracket. It can be tricky, but there is no short cut or other method I know of.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
Saul Comments: Got it, thanks!
May 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Saul Comments: Got stuck on figure 22, can not find connectors to save my life.. are they behind and to the right facing of the crankcase breather valve, backside, etc?
May 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: They are tucked away, to say the least. The connectors are mounted tot he last intake runner, near the firewall. The yellow arrow points to the connection for the crankcase breather. Find the breather hose connection and you will find the electrical connectors. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Kyle Comments: Is this the correct crankcase breather hose that you mention will most likely break during removal?
From your catalog: Part #:11-15-7-559-528-M9
April 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, however all of the hoses are prone to break. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
06330iStarterProblem Comments: hello, i would apreciate some help. i got as far as figure 20 with no problem.
i removed all the bolts on top of intake manifold, however this is still hard to remove I read this procedure many times and followed the steps carefuly but it seem like i'm missing something. please help?
also if there is a part number for the bolts to be replaced at the time i remove the starter and that vacuum hose, also for the intake manifold gaskets that would be awesome thanks.
March 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you unbolt the lower support bracket?

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Pete Comments: In figure 22 there are three slots available for connections, four in total. I know the two breather hoses electric elements go in the two available slots, what goes in the third available slot? Also, does it matter which order they are placed in upon reassembling?
March 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you did not unplug something from the third slot, it is empty on your vehicle. The order of the breather plugs should not matter. However, i would do your best to get that back to where they were originally. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ub Comments: Mr you, I just replaced my manifold and I had the same thing happen to me. I don't know what the problem could be. I put it back together without replacing the breather hoses on order just to test and received the same transmission error CC-ID 307. I'm not sure what the transmission has to do with an intake manifold. Perhaps a battery reset might do it?
March 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What are you reading the fault code with? It is possible it is being displayed incorrectly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mr you Comments: A 2006 bmw 325i starter removed and after replacing with a new one the vehicles displayed a red gear with an ! Inside it. Ang the vehicle gearbox doesn't function properly.... I wonder what's the problem please help....
March 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would double check your work and be sure everything is connected properly. If so, check the vehicle for fault codes using a BMW scan tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
T-BAR Comments: In figure 19 how do you get the tabs off? Do you pull up on the plastic bracket or push the metal tab down and pull? Any suggestions for getting at the on one the left? It's buried pretty good under the throttle body. Thanks.
February 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Grab the plastic housing, and slide it away from the intake manifold. You may have to work it side to side to get it off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ramiro S Comments: How do you disconnect the wires In Figure 22? Im having a really hard time getting through to them.. Do you just pull or is their clips? Do I pull on the connector or can I just pull on the wire itself?
February 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Usually the connectors pull straight out. If you are having trouble, try releasing the small tab using a small flathead screwdriver, while holding tab, pull connector out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Leo Comments: What's the torque specs for the manifold fasteners?
February 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 1AZ intake manifold to the cylinder head
N52 M7x50 15 Nm
N52 AM7 hexagon nut 15 Nm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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