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BMW Engine Temperature Sensor Replacing
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Engine Temperature Sensor Replacing

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$

Talent:

**

Tools:

22mm, 24mm wrenches

Applicable Models:

BMW 325i/xi Sedan (2006)
BMW 328i xDrive Sedan (2009-11)
BMW 328i/xi Sedan (2007-11)
BMW 330i/xi Sedan (2006)
BMW 335d/i/xi Sedan (2007-11)
BMW 335i xDrive Sedan (2009-11)

Parts Required:

Engine coolant temperature sensor, engine oil pressure sensor, engine coolant, engine oil

Hot Tip:

Work with a cool engine.

Performance Gain:

Repair faulty sensor or remedy coolant leak

Complementary Modification:

Replace coolant and change engine oil

BMW E90 models utilize an engine coolant temperature sensor and an engine oil pressure switch. The sensors can fail electrically, a fault code will be stored and the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) will be illuminated. You may also have a leak from one of the sensors. The sensors can leak through the electrical portion of the sensor, wicking oil or coolant out through the electrical connector. If you suspect this the source of a leak, disconnect the sensor and inspect the connector for signs of fluid. The connector should be dry and free of fluids. In this tech article, I will show you how to replace the engine coolant temperature sensor and the engine oil pressure switch.

Remove engine covers. See our tech article on engine cover removing.

Coolant temperature sensor:

It's not necessary to drain the engine coolant, as long as you work quickly. Once the sensor is removed, coolant will leak out, but it will not drain the entire system. Have a drain pan under the vehicle in the area just beneath the sensor. This will catch any leaking coolant.

Working at front of engine, disconnect coolant sensor electrical connector.
Figure 1

Working at front of engine, disconnect coolant sensor electrical connector. Press wire retainer (green arrow), then pull the connector straight off the sensor.

Using a 22mm wrench, loosen the sensor.
Figure 2

Using a 22mm wrench, loosen the sensor. Just break the sensor free, then unscrew it by hand.

Be sure the sensor seal comes off with the sensor.
Figure 3

Be sure the sensor seal comes off with the sensor. (green arrow) You will have to replace this part and don't want to double them up by accident. Install new sensor with a new seal and tighten. Connect electrical connector and double check that the wiring is in the same place as it was before. Fill and bleed cooling system. See notes on bleeding below.


Bleeding cooling system: Trapped air is common when filling a cooling system and can result in improper cooling. It is important to bleed your cooling system each time the cooling system is serviced. Install expansion tank cap and be sure all bleeder screws are tight. Turn ignition ON (do not start engine), set temperature controls in vehicle interior to full warm and blower fan speed to Low. Press accelerator pedal to floor and hold down for ten seconds. Electric coolant pump will run for about 12 minutes to circulate coolant and bleed air from cooling system Once pump has run the cycle, check level of coolant in expansion tank and adjust as needed. Start and run engine at idle until it reaches operating temperature and check cooling system for leaks.

Engine oil pressure sensor/switch:
Working at front of engine, disconnect oil temperature sensor/switch electrical connector.
Figure 4

Working at front of engine, disconnect oil pressure sensor/switch electrical connector. Press wire retainer (green arrow), then pull the connector straight off the sensor/switch.

Using a 24mm wrench or socket, loosen the sensor.
Figure 5

Using a 24mm wrench or socket, loosen the sensor. Just break the sensor/switch free, then unscrew it by hand.

As you remove the sensor, a small amount of engine oil may leak out.
Figure 6

As you remove the sensor/switch, a small amount of engine oil may leak out. I like to place a rag (green arrow) beneath the sensor to absorb it. This will minimize oil spilled down the side of your engine.

Be sure the sensor seal comes off with the sensor.
Figure 7

Be sure the sensor switch seal comes off with the sensor switch. (green arrow) You will have to replace this part and don't want to double them up by accident. Install new sensor/switch with a new seal and tighten. Connect electrical connector and double check that the wiring is in the same place as it was before.

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Comments and Suggestions:
xolani Comments: I am driving BMW 320i 2009 when i start the fun go full blast i already change heat sensor bot oil and raidaitor sensor but stil doing same thing
March 25, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could also be a can bus communication issue. Have the faults checked in the engine control module. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
MsportAlex Comments: 2009 BMW 335i. Oil temp used to be perfect on the gauge - right in the middle. Now, even after highway driving, needle barely moved to 1/3 of the gauge. No impact to driving - except if I step hard on the throttle, I get the half engine light and reduced power, but I think that is the high pressure fuel pump which has a recall on it Is the oil temp gauge most likely just a sensor? No engine codes, and even the reduced power engine light goes away after turning off and on again.
March 10, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty sensor, but the temp reading low would not cause limp mode. I would check the vehicle for fault codes to start. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
AvidanR126 Comments: Hi do you think a thermostat or water pump can make my car not turn on no more I was driving it a few days ago just fine it did not overheat or Nothing what do you think I'll be
March 6, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not likely. What type of vehicle and are there any fault codes stored? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ldmastersergeant Comments: I have a 08 335i conv. After driving the car 25 to 30 minutes or so, I check the upper radiator hose and reservoir and they very hot to the touch. The hoses have a lot of pressure built up and are super stiff. No codes or coolant light are on and the coolant fan is not running. When I turn the car off, I can hear the water pump running. After a minute it turns off. The fan comes on only when the AC is on. Hoses feel they are going to pop. Is this normal? When should the fan kick in ? If I drive any longer I feel like the car will over heat. Is it suppose to build up that much pressure and heat? The wife's car I need help with this issue.
March 3, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, pressure is normal. If pressure is too much, it should bleed out of the reservoir cap. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Freddy Comments: Lower radiator hose is not hot when it overheats. What would cause blockage? Or could it possibly be a fuse?
February 24, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I suppose it could be a fuse for the water pump. But I would expect there to be faults in the engine control unit if that was the case. When you run the bleeding procedure are you able to see flow when you open the expansion tank cap? If you see flow, and the thermostat is new, the blockage could be in the radiator. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Justin Comments: 2006 330i. I have a service engine soon light on and ran the code, its P0128. Read that this is probably either the thermostat or coolant temp sensor. I checked my cars temperature to make sure and its running around 88 C which is normal from what I've read. This is all the info I have to go on, do you know what it could be?
February 24, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 99% of the time in my experience it is the thermostat. But if you want to do both go ahead and make sure it's fixed! - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Freddy Comments: Will have to check it an see will respond as soon as I know. Was going to try coolant temp sensor.
February 23, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Probably not the sensor. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Freddy Comments: Have a 2007 328i changed the water pump and thermostat hot air not blowing still overheating tried bleeding process still same. was going to start trying sensors anything you can help with to try? Any suggestions would be great. Thank you.
February 22, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a restriction in the system. When the car over heats is the lower radiator hose warm? - Casey at Pelican Parts  
hamlet Comments: So.. How to restore the communication problem? what parts do I need to replace? Thank you
February 8, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The communication on your car is a mix of various BUS systems. This is best diagnosed by a professional asfter you have verified that ALL fuses are good. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
hamlet Comments: Oh.. one more thing. So, I connected the OBDII computer used to be readable to my car. and It said no data... should I check the fuse as well? Thanks for your help
February 7, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes check all fuses. Including the ones in the front E-Box - Casey at Pelican Parts  
hamlet Comments: I drive 07 328i. A week ago, I have replaced thermostat and water pump and everything was okay. A day after, I started the engine and drove the car and felt car did not have enough power even though I hit about 1/2 or 3/4 of gas. Also, When I change the gearManual car and hit the gas, there is delay of car reactionwas reacted right away. I stopped the car and heard radiator fan was spinning crazy. I put the car back on drive way and turned off the engine and turned it on again. I heard radiator fan still spins crazy. Could it be temperature sensor located in cylinder head or lower radiator?
February 7, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Usually the fan running like crazy can be a bad water pump or thermostat, could also be a communication problem between the engine control unit and the water pump. Also make sure that you have performed the bleeding procedure for the cooling system. Restore communication first and then check faults. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Mappy Comments: My radiator fan would randomly come on at full force just after start-up but if i shut the car off and restarted, it would be fine. Today the temps got negative and it was relentless and i could not get it to stop. So after reading through here i tried wiggling the oil temp connector and the fan immediately calmed down. There must be corrosion in the connector or something but i'm glad it was that simple.
January 4, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Remove and inspect the connector, you may need to clean or repair it. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Dave Comments: I'm at my wits end with this E90. It will not blow warm air after starting on a cold morning but says it's overheating. I just changed the thermostat but didn't fix the issue. No codes thrown. After it sits for a while I will start it again and no overheating and it will finally blow warm air. I am going to change the coolant temp sensor in the cylinder head next but not sure if it's the issue. Pump seems to run when I did bleeding procedure...strong pencil thin stream into the coolant tank...any ideas?
December 9, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would suspect a faulty water pump if the thermostat is OK. Very common. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sydney Comments: I leave in Zimbabwe, my BMW 3 series 1998, is rising temperatures. if I am speeding below 100km/h the temperature is high to the RED light, and when I increase speeds to around 100km up wards, the red light goes off and goes to normal. What could be the problem
November 18, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A faulty water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
08.528xi Comments: Thank you for the pictures and descriptions confirming the coolant temp sensor.

Now the oil; Isn't that the engine oil pressure sensor and not the oil temperature sensor?

Searching Google, your images are described as 'Oil Temperature sensor' which brought me here.
November 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is a typo, the sensor shown is the oil pressure sensor / switch. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
richcamb Comments: Hello , i have a 135i 2009 today i was driving normally and suddenly the engine lost power , it still runing but without the boost and as long the engine is running the fans are too at full speed , have any idea thanks
September 19, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jonkie Comments: hello i bought e90 2005 model ,they bridged the fan and when start it makes a hell of a noise and it stop when the engine is not running how do i change it back to auto fan ? what coulbe their reason to bride it?
August 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: My guess is they wired it so it is on all the time. I would inspect the wiring to the fan, see what side of the harness was altered, then return it to the normal state using a a wiring diagram as a guide. You will probably need a new fan as well. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mllz Comments: coolant leaks from resivor tank?
July 12, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Either the cap is faulty or the tank is cracked. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mllz Comments: 2006 e90 pressure test was positive. changed thermostat, fan, water pump. bled system. but problem still exists.
July 12, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What is the problem? I don't see an earlier note from you. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tayda Comments: Thank you for the answer. There are actually no fault codes present at all which would explain this overheat behavior. The coolant pump runs as per the live data and varies its speed, and the coolant temperature both at engine and radiator outlet never gets even close to the high end of normal. Only the oil temperature rises and then triggers the limp mode - I need to figure out what sensor sends the oil temperature to the DME.
July 4, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The oil condition sensor is what you are looking for. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tayda Comments: I have a 2006 e90 330i. Car showed intermittent yellow temperature warning, followed by red, which would disappear and not come back for remainder of drive. Recently this happens every time the vehicle is driven and enters limp mode. I have a BMW scan tool and no codes are present. When reading live parameters all coolant temperature readings are normal or even cool, and also engine temperature. The only reading that is high is oil temperature, which gradually climbs to 150C around 300F and seems to trigger the warning lights and limp mode. How can the oil be getting to that temperature when the coolant and engine are not and nothing feels abnormally warm. Where is the engine oil temperature sensor located - is it the one near the filter housing or integrated into the level sensor as I have read? Thanks.
June 30, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be a sensor or coolant pump failure. Best bet is to check the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Gene GA 335i Comments: Well... We just did a normal drive around town today and when we got home I used my OBD2 Scan Tool and all 7 monitors were good Inc. 0. But, even though I did not throw a SES light; the MIL was reported to be OFF but my scanner still showed a Pending P0128 Fault Code. Of course, when I reset that code; 4 monitor dropped off line. I may have to address the thermostat at some point but I have been told that the Coolant Temp Sensor could also be involved in that fault Code. Any Comments on that. AND... If I keep driving and the pending never actually turns on the SES light and all monitors are set; will I pass Emissions? Thanks again... Gene
June 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: the P0128 is likely just the thermostat. if the light is not on and a code is pending, you may be able to display the code with your tool. That sounds like your situation. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Gene GA 335i Comments: I'm sick of it! I bought our 2008 335i used from a Dealer. Had about 85K on it. It was throwing some misfire codes cyl 1 & 3 for quite a while but I would reset the SES and fault codes and all would be well. I did replace all Spark Plugs and All Coils and it slowly stopped throwing Misfire codes. However, even when it was throwing codes the Dealer got it to Pass Emissions at a State Run facility...??? What's that all about???. Now I get a P0128 related SES light but it's random. I won't need another Emissions test until Dec 2016 so when the light does come on I just clear it and it may not come back on for days. Now... It's like you have to have your own private race track to do a BMW approved Drive Cycle. Are you telling me that every driver out there when they throw a code or change a battery has to go through that??? What happened to the days where you just "Drove the Crap out of the car at various speeds and RPMS prior to the test... AND PASSED! Thanks
June 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Vehicles do not have strenuous drive cycles at this point. Modern vehicles have drive cycles that mimic normal driving. If the test is not running, something is wrong. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Chris Comments: 2008 335i - Hi Pelican, When starting the car, most times the fan goes on full blast only a few seconds later. About 1 of 4 it does not and everything seems normal. When I do the 10 second throttle hold, the water pump cycles through what sounds like 5 approximately 3 second runs and then repeats over and over. Coolant is up but there is not a steady stream into the expansion tank. On an earlier try, pump cycled a couple of times then stayed on but not super strong sounding and a fairly steady stream was going into the tank. Does a failed or failing waterpump do this or is it on or off? Is there any case where a bad temp sensor, oil or water, could cause this? Will codes indicate whether pump, sensor or something like voltage? Car is in garage after being towed after a single episode of fan/yellow/limp only a few minutes after starting. Tried to repeat once when the fan did not immediately come on and no problems for about 10-15 minutes through neighborhood. When fan roars I'm guessing it will go to overheat warning again quickly. Sorry for the avalanche of info, just trying to get you and others all the info I can. Codes have not been read and I plan to do repair whether pump, sensors or other myself. Any shortcuts to diagnose? Changing jobs, wife in school, definitely budget minded! thanks so much
June 18, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if the pump was causing this, there would be a fault code stored in the DME identifying the pump as an issue, likely pump rpm or pump inactive. If the pump is making ratcheting sounds when going on and off it is likely faulty. No shortcuts. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ulrich Comments: Hi there,i replaced my water pump,thermostat and radiator last Week bmw e90 323i 2006 msport manual 111000km.The automatic fan was coming on and made a hell of a noise followed by orange temp warning,then red.Been driving fine,no fan noise,no warning heat lights whatsoever for the last week until today on my way home..amber,followed by red.Pulled over for 15 mins,opened expansion tank cap,no pressure,coolant seemed fine.Saw a bit by the bleeding screw,upon inspection saw the rubber ring on bleeding screw was broken,bought a new one,followed bleeding procedure and was ready to go home.7 km in stop and go traffic amber light again.Pulled over 1km from home,waited about 45 mins then started the car and drove home.Left it to idle for like 15 mins in the yard till i heard the fan come on again.Parked the car.The thing that gets me is that the coolant doesnt feel all that hot..warm at best,i stuck my finger in there 😂.Also, how can i check the engine temp as the car does not have a heat gauge?Please help.
June 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check if the radiator outlet sensor is connected properly. If loose, it could trigger the fan and a warning light. As far as engine temp goes, check coolant temp with a thermostat and compare it to the sensor data in the DME. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cj Comments: Hi, My wife's 2008 335i showed a service engine soon light then today suddenly showed yellow overheat symbol and went into limp mode apparently. Pulled over on freeway, Checked coolant, no problem, coolant hot but reservoir full, no leakage or steam. Waited a couple of minutes then restarted, ran fine for about 20-45 seconds then yellow temp light came back on and back to limp home mode. Any hints when we have no quick access to code readers? It's possible the temp light switched to red for a moment but she's not sure. She's waiting for tow truck right now. thanks.
June 10, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have a faulty water pump. That is a common issue and will have symptoms similar to yours. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Arico Comments: Thanks. I have checked compression on cylinders. That's fine. How do I check fuel? Shall I replace fuel injectors.?
June 10, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Grab a repair manual it will have the pressure and volume spec. Then use a flow and pressure gauge to measure fuel delivery. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Arico Comments: I am getting fault code P0300 and P0304 on my BMW e90 320i from 2005. The code came after I replaced O2sensors before cat. Symptoms are car shaking and stuttering while driving. I have also changed coils and spark plugs but car still shaking. What next step should I now take?. Can you please guide me step by step. Thanks
June 10, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have to isolate the cause of the misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
PJ Comments: Please help, have a tight budget, my 96 e90 323i,fan not turning and causes overheating, I disconnected the fan switch and the fan now turns full blast but water tank goes dry every 50km and overheats again even with the fan running while disconnected. I'm in South Africa
June 6, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ricki Comments: So motor temp on 110 degrees is normal for this type of car ? Bmw E90 320i ? I am just afraid of burn the motor away with such temp .
June 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: not sure if you are referring to F or C °. BUt - around 200°f is normal. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ricki Comments: Can you please help me. I am not sure there are issues or not. But I feel my car overheat. After a drive for like 20 min I put my hands on motor cover it feels overheat. When I open motor cover it feel like engine is very hot.I have checked motor temperature and it's on 110°. Not sure it's normal on BMW E90 from 2005. N46 engine. My older car Honda from 96 were on 90 ° when driving warm. Do I need to replace anything or is it normal on this type of cars.
June 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would go by the temperature gauge. Not feel, as the engine will feel very hot. The engine compartment is also tighter than a Honda, less airflow. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Snupys66 Comments: 330i 2006 But engine runs fine and low coolant light wouldn't come on if heater heat comes on
May 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You likely need to add coolant to the cooling system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Snupys66 Comments: BMW e90 2006 330i keep losing coolant replaced expansion tank now no visible leaks but temperature low coolant light keeps coming on and engine still keeps over heating could it be the water pump or temperature sensor also notice bubbles when topping coolant up and coolant keeps increasing and decreasing does it need bleeding ?
May 25, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jay Comments: Where can i get this part?
May 13, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It looks like a water fitting. You can get it from pelican Parts when you call and supply your vehicle info.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jay Comments: PLEASE HELP! /BMW 2007 530i/
What on earth is this part called and how much?
Where can i get it from?
May 13, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It looks like a water fitting. You can get it from pelican Parts when you call and supply your vehicle info.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ivan Comments: Does anyone know what hose is in the first pic right under the arrow? It has a leak coming from it and i have work in the morning 8:30-5:15 and class from 5:30-8:20 please let me know asap. I really need my car.
April 25, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is a coolant hose.
Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
hakim Comments: hi. I have a 2007 328xi w 150k miles. When I got home from a long drive I noticed my fan running very fast and loud even when I turned the car off. the next morning a cool 40 degrees F my heater blew cold air, felt a drop in acceleration in some gears, and the fan was blowing loudly again. Then the yellow temp light came on and next the red. then limp home mode. I do have a lot of oil leaking from the oil filter housing. Could the problem be oil on the water temp sensor or oil temp sensor. Or is it more likely to be water pump?
April 16, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have an issue with the water pump or cooling fan. The oil leak may be a separate issue.

I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.


- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Roblow3000 Comments: Hey, I have a 2006 BMW 325I . I have been getting a P1028 code. I have replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat sensor , thermostat housing, and various hoses. I am still getting the fault. I've bled the system a few times and my fan does not run a lot. Car does not overheat. I've heard that using an aftermarket thermostat housing my be my issue. Does this sound right and what else is there to try. Thanks
April 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: it could be the housing. Have you checked the sensor signal voltage? What is it with a cold engine, then once warmed up? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
evorasane Comments: I have replaced my waterpump and thermostat and now on cold days air temp at 36* or belowthe fan would run and cooling my engine. Could it be the temp sensor?
April 6, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the fan is coming on when it shouldn't, I would first check if the cooling system was bled properly, then check the temp sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Gonze32 Comments: So my 06 325i E90 is throwing P0128 Code for me to replace the coolant sensor I also need to replace the oil sensor? And if so can I get these parts at NAPA if so I just need to make sure what the part numbers I Need
April 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That fault is code is likely the thermostat. I would suggest getting the part from Pelican Parts. Where you are asking for help. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Wayne Comments: I have a 2008 335i - A few weeks back my oil temp gauge started fluctuating going to 120 degrees, when I check oil level it says inactive. Now my water pump runs continuously, I have to disconnect my battery to prevent it from running down, can this be a sensor problem i.e oil Temp causing water pump to run even when car is switched off or do I need to change water pump - my car km currently 100450
March 31, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would assume the oil temp issue is a separate fault. the coolant pump would eventually turn off. It wouldn't remain running all day with the vehicle off, even with a high temp. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
aldocello Comments: How do I bleed a cooling system with a push start 2007 328I
March 29, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See this article:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/WATER-Draining_Filling_Cooling_System/WATER-Draining_Filling_Cooling_System.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
S Mark Comments: My 2007 328i when i open my trunk lid the cargo light come on dim when it's almost to be Close it comes on bright? What do you think the problem is
March 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A short in the wiring harness or a faulty latch switch. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Pabs Comments: Hi, I have an 06 bmw 325i and the code p0128 showed up on the dash. I've been told that the solutions are to replace the sensor or the thermostat. is it safe for the car if I still drive it until the parts come in and it gets replaced? and can I replace those things on my own or do I have to take it to mechanic. Lastly, is there anything else I have to do besides replace the two parts in order for this code to go away?
March 8, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would avoid driving until you can replace the thermostat. See this tech article for info on the repair. http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/WATER-Thermostat_Replacement/WATER-Thermostat_Replacement.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts  
William Comments: I have 2007 BMW 335i and every time fill the fuel check engine light on.
Code show P 2042 what is that mean and how to fix it?
March 7, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your code reader maybe displaying the code incorrectly. That fault is for diesel vehicles. I would try scanning with an advanced BMW scan tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
giannis Comments: i have bmw 320i 2006
i replaced radiator and thermostat
my hidden menu show me the temperature
before replace all of them dont increase upon 70-75 Oc
and dive to 55-60oc in short time
do this again after the changes
March 5, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
messyk Comments: I have a BMW 323i model 2007,I I have replaced the thermostat and the water pump recently but it's still overheating, even I didn't drive the car, my engine oil is writing inactive?
February 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try bleeding the cooling system again. if that doesn't do it, confirm the water pump is in fact turning on during the bleeding procedure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
yzfoscar Comments: 2007 328I n52. Service engine light on scan says fault in coolant temp sensor or thermostat. How can you tell which one? Car has 172000 miles and is now giving me slot of issues.
February 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: By the fault code number and description. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ruben Comments: I have a 2006 bmw 325i e90 that I change water pump and thermostat and my heater is not working just a little of heat come out and sometime no heat come out could it be coolant temp sensor.
Thank you
February 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unlikely. I would assume the heater core is not getting hot coolant. Check coolant flow to the heater core. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
vincent j Comments: I have a 2006 BMW 325i E90. I had oil leaking around oil filter housing. I disconnected the sensor attached to oil housing, removed the three bolts, and dosconnected radiator hose. I clean both surfaces, installed gasket, bolted it up, and connected the sensor. I then started the car ran fine for about 20 min, then shut it off. Came back it will run for a few sec, then cut off. The red oil light is on, no oil pressure. I replaced the sensor attached to housing, filter, o-ring. Still no oil circulation. The car has 7 quarts in it. Car was fine before i replaced the gasket. Need help.
February 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the oil pressure sensor is connected correctly. If so, check if the sensor terminals were damaged. If you have no oil pressure, the vehicle may shut off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
CnTrance Comments: Hi Everyone im having a problem wit my 325i from the antifreeze hose connector between the engine and the fan under the temperture sensor is located and I don't know what is the name of this part. Any help would be appreciated thank you in advance.
February 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Looks like the radiator outlet. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
abe Comments: hi, i have a 2008 bmw 335i with a oil cooler, the temperature gauge inside stays at 160 even after long drives.... could the oil temp sensor be faulty or the coolant temp?
January 21, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the gauge isn't moving, it may be faulty. If i recall 160 is the bottom of the range. I would check the vehicle for fault codes, there may be one stored for the sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rods Comments: Hi am having a problem with my 2006 bmw E90 320i it always making noise like tapping noise after I start it and oil light will appear on the cluster after some seconds the noise will go away and the oil light will disappear and the engine will sound normal,can you please help me coz I don't know what is it?
October 26, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking the engine oil level. Then check engine oik pressure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Beto Comments: Hello I have 325 I Bmw 2006 the engine keeps over heating I already replace the thermostat I notice the two upper hoes gets warm but the one with radiator in the bottom always remains cool my code came up p0128 do u think is the actual sensor and should I replace just the sensor on the actual bottom or also the sensor that's on top too or could it be my water pump
July 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Usually this fault is set by a faulty thermostat. I would check if the electrical connector is properly seated.

If still overheating, check the water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Tiffany Comments: I have a 2007 328i. I just had a cylinder, the starter, the battery, and crank shafts position sensor replaced. The check engine light is on and the dealer says the thermostat and water pump need to be replaced . I've got to go out of town and plan about a 7 hour drive. Is this something that will cause a problem on the road, or can it wait. Could it just be a sensor?
July 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the thermostat is faulty, the engine could overheat. I would fix it before any long trips. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Patrick Comments: I just connected my OBD to my 2009 E91 and it read the Error code 30C6 motor oil pressure sensor, plausibility.
What could this mean? I am at low speed e.g. traffic sometimes experiencing jutters through the car when i take off. I also have the code 2AAF Fuel Pump Plausibility. Any Link between the two?
June 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: One is for the oil sensor, the other for the fuel pump. I would assume the fuel pump fault has something to do with your drivability issue. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
I would start there. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Johnny Comments: As soon as I turn on the car the fan runs full blast. When I unplug the engine water/oil temperature sensor the fan starts to run normally. When I plug it back it, the fan goes full blast again.
May 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty fan. To be sure, check if the DME is commanding the fan on when you start the engine. If it is not, the fan is faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
chelo00715 Comments: hi..I GOT A 2006 BMW 325i. .I already replace the coolant temperature sensor and the thermostat on it as well I also did a radiator flush and also bleed the water pump as is recommended. A month has gone by and my check engine light when up again. It reads code p0128 again..any one knows why ? Any suggestions ? What did I miss?
May 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check if your engine is warming up fast enough and maintaining operating temp. If not, the new thermostat may be defective. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rob Comments: i am putting a triple guage in my 2009 dodge challenger 5.7 hemi, consisting of oil/water temp, volts and one other. I need to replace the oil temp sensor I have now with the one on the new guage. will it ruin my car other than the vehicle saying I have low oil?
December 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you are only detaching the gauge from the cluster it shouldn't be an issue. However I am not familiar with the specifics of your vehicle. You will want to check if you have a volume controlled oil pump or other computer control that relies on oil pressure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Frank Comments: After replacing the coolant sensor, how do you clear the code to get rid of the check engine light on the dash?
September 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Using a scan tool, or driving the vehicle through 40 key cycles, it will then clear on it's own if the fault is no longer present. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jack Comments: Finally found the problem the engine oil level sensor was faulty
The engine oil level sensor will measured how much
oil in the sump and also measured the temperature of the engine oil
September 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
jack Comments: my e90 320i 2006 engine yellow temp light ON for 30second and then light off
i changed the thermostat but still coming on.
what could be the problem.
is it coolant temp.sensor or engine oil temp.switch
thanks
September 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a sensor issue. I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Chris Comments: My car overheats and I changed the thermostat, it now still overheats even though the engine block is cool! Cool enough for me to put my hands on the cover
August 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You didn't mention what vehicle you have. It could be a restriction or a faulty water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Diego Comments: No it not cause a cylinder power issue, just feel like a cylinder power issue. Car run well on idle, when i depress the accelerator the rpm goes 1500 to 400 up and down. When engine is hot no problem.
December 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Like I said, start with a fuel delivery test. This could be a faulty HP fuel pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Diego Comments: Do you think that could be my trouble? here's whats happen with my 328i 2007... since a couple days ago in winter when i start my car idle is fine but as soon i want to accelerate engine works like it have one cylinder not working. After a few minutes, engine works very fine, powerfull without any trouble in power. I left the car for 3-4 hours no problem, but if i left for more then 7 hours trouble's back again.
Thank you
December 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure the coolant sensor would cause a cylinder power issue.
I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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Page last updated: Sun 4/23/2017 02:20:59 AM