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Coolant Expansion Tank Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Coolant Expansion Tank Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$200

Talent:

**

Tools:

Set of sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers

Applicable Models:

BMW 323Ci Coupe/Conv (1999-00)
BMW 323i Sedan/Wagon (1999-00)
BMW 325Ci Coupe/Conv (2001-06)
BMW 325i/xi Sedan/Wagon (2001-06)
BMW 328Ci Coupe (1999-00)
BMW 328i Sedan (1999-00)
BMW 330Ci Coupe/Conv (2001-06)
BMW 330i/xi Sedan (2001-06)

Parts Required:

Expansion tank, radiator hoses, engine coolant

Hot Tip:

Work with a cool engine

Performance Gain:

Car will cool down again, coolant leak repaired

Complementary Modification:

Change radiator hoses, Expansion tank mounting bracket, flush cooling system

BMW E46 cooling system components include:

  • Radiator and coolant overflow tank
  • Belt driven coolant pump bolted to the front of the engine block
  • Electric cooling fan attached to rear of radiator -- the cooling fan is controlled by the engine control module (ECM) via an output final stage
  • Automatic transmission models: Belt driven fan attached to front of coolant pump -- viscous clutch controls fan speed based on engine compartment temperature and rpms
  • Electrically heated ECM-controlled thermostat
  • Automatic transmission cooler (heat exchanger)
  • Heater valve and heater core (for climate control)
  • Coolant level sensor inside expansion tank
  • Coolant temperature sensor at cylinder head
  • Radiator outlet temperature sensor
  • Coolant hoses and lines

When a coolant expansion tank ages it becomes brittle and develops hairline cracks. Inspect your expansion tank every time you change your oil. Look for cracks or any signs of leaks. Ignoring a small crack is a bad idea, as they can grow rapidly and create a major coolant leak before you know it. The coolant level sensor is located in the bottom of the tank. If you have a low coolant level message, but your coolant level is OK, you may have a faulty sensor. In this tech article I will show you how to replace the expansion tank and test and replace the coolant level sensor.

Do not remove the expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. Coolant or hot steam may escape and will scald you. To do any work on the cooling system, wait until the engine has cooled off.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches. 

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you are working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Do not work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability. 

Vehicle models change and evolve, as they grow older, so the vehicle shown in our illustrations may vary slightly from yours. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

If you are looking for more Technical Articles to diagnose or repair cooling issues please visit our E46 page.

Drain the cooling system. See our Pelican Parts Technical Article on Flushing Your Coolant.

Remove the cooling fan shroud. See Pelican Parts Technical Article on Replacing Your Radiator Fan.

Loosen the air flow meter clamp (green arrow), then disconnect the duct from the air flow meter and remove the air filter housing from the engine compartment.
Figure 1

Loosen the air flow meter clamp (green arrow), then disconnect the duct from the air flow meter and remove the air filter housing from the engine compartment.

Remove the air filter housing assembly fasteners (yellow arrows) and disconnect the air flow meter electrical connector (green arrow).
Figure 2

Remove the air filter housing assembly fasteners (yellow arrows) and disconnect the air flow meter electrical connector (green arrow).

Working at the top of coolant expansion tank, using a flathead screwdriver, release both upper hose clips by prying them up (green arrows).
Figure 3

Working at the top of coolant expansion tank, using a flathead screwdriver, release both upper hose clips by prying them up (green arrows).

Next, remove the upper hose from the coolant expansion tank by pulling it straight off.
Figure 4

Next, remove the upper hose from the coolant expansion tank by pulling it straight off. You may have to wiggle the hose a bit to get it to move free. Be careful not to damage the hose or tank as both are made of plastic.

Working at the bottom of coolant expansion tank, using a flathead screwdriver, release the lower hoseÂ's retaining clip by it prying up (green arrow).
Figure 5

Working at the bottom of coolant expansion tank, using a flathead screwdriver, release the lower hoseÂ's retaining clip by it prying up (green arrow). Then disconnect the hose by pulling it off the coolant expansion tank fitting.

Working at lower right side of the coolant expansion tank, locate the coolant expansion tank release tab (green arrow).
Figure 6

Working at lower right side of the coolant expansion tank, locate the coolant expansion tank release tab (green arrow).

Pull the retaining clip tab out in order to release the bottom of the expansion tank from the mounting bracket (green arrow).
Figure 7

Pull the retaining clip tab out in order to release the bottom of the expansion tank from the mounting bracket (green arrow).

Once you release the retainer clip, your BMW expansion tank can be removed by pulling the up and off its mounting bracket.
Figure 8

Once you release the retainer clip, your BMW expansion tank can be removed by pulling the up and off its mounting bracket. It may stick and give you a hard time. If this is the case, gently pry between the expansion tank and mounting bracket to release. Be very careful, all items you are prying on are made of plastic. Disconnect the coolant level sensorÂ's electrical connector at bottom of the expansion tank then remove the expansion tank from the vehicle.

When replacing the E46 expansion tank, you will have to swap the coolant level sensor from the old tank to the new one.
Figure 10

When replacing the E46 expansion tank, you will have to swap the coolant level sensor from the old tank to the new one. Rotate the coolant level sensor 90° counter-clockwise and pull out (green arrow).

When installing your new expansion tank, connect the coolant level sensor electrical connector, then press it into the mounting bracket and engage the retaining clip. Next, connect the lower hose to the expansion tank; the retaining clip is properly seated when an audible click is heard. Connect the upper hose and engage the retaining clips until an audible click is heard. Install the air filter housing and the radiator fan shroud. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Once complete, double check all hose connections and check the engine for coolant leaks.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Billy mc Comments: I've just bought a bmw 235i saloon on my way home one day there was a noise from under the bonnet,when I looked,the fan blades on the viscous fan had snapped off,but didn't cause any damage.I replaced the fan after checking that the water pump bearing was ok,and its been running fine for a month until today when exactly the same thing happens,I haven't a clue what has caused this,and want to know if anyone else has had this problem,and if so,what caused it.The bmw model is 2001,thank you.Billy mc.
December 4, 2016
LEO Comments: Expansion tank replacement directions were great help thanks
November 6, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
me Comments: hopefully this helps-I keep reading about getting the bottle out of the lower section is a real pain in the ace and prying from the bottom to get it outlike pictured in tech article--for me-no need to take out fan shroud-no need to go underneath-this job took me maybe 15 minutes-all I did was take out the air box--in any case-what I did was pry from the top with the cap onusing the cap as a point to pry and then get my hand on the expansion tank lower nipple and pry and lift up/wiggle at the same time-the bottle came out effortlessly it seemscar has 170k-original tank--worse case scenario-you break the capwhich you should replace with the bottle anyway-better than breaking that plastic bracket-hopefully this tip helps
November 6, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
peverheart Comments: Hi, my tank-2000 328i AT- or the bottom connector seam to be leaking. It looks like it is isolated to the bottom connector of the tank. Is there an O-ring involved in the bottom connector or hose that comes with a tank, or do I need to order both? I have a pic taken from under the car. I have not taken it off yet.
October 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is not a seal. The sensor mounts in the reservoir without one. There may be a leak from a different connection to the reservoir.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
Gatsi Comments: I have got a bmw 318i E46 2003 model. If i drive it for a long distance and stop for a while,it doesnt start easily, it only cranks but after it cools for about 30 minutes it starts easily and moving without any problem. I replaced the crank sensor and still nothing was solved.
Please help me
September 25, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Joemah Comments: Thanks a ton! Broke down on the side of the road due to a large, catastrophic crack in the expansion tank. Was able to get to a nearby parts store, get the tank, and use this guide on my cell phone to get the job done. Saved me a tow truck ride
September 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Nina Comments: In figure 5 it says "release the lower hoseÂ's retaining clip" what is that hose called? Mine is spongy/leaking and needs to be replaced. Also where is the end of that hose? Do y'all have instructions on how to replace it?

Thanks :
September 4, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is a coolant hose for the reservoir. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Kara Comments: What is the housing unit that the ATF t-stat SIT's in. My old one is broke off in there and everything is falling apartold plastic I have a new ATF t-stat and ET but can't get the old pieces out. Can I just replace that and how?
August 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is a plastic bracket with fluid channels in it. You can replace it. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
CGB Comments: Just had expansion tank replaced due to cracking and suddenly this m316Ti coupe won't idle. Have to rest on accelerator or engine will cut out.

Found out mechanic never changed sensor.

Engine was stopped when temp got hot however I'm suspecting sensor got cooked although its not causing the low level warning light to come on.

Would the temp sensor on the radiator cause the idle problem?

August 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Maybe high idle, not not a no idle issue. You probably have an issue with the idle motor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Art Comments: Once I pulled the expansion tank up out of the bracket on my 2004 auto 325xi, I noticed a spring loaded valve of some kind that is pushing up on an angle in the bracket. Is that a common feature, and is the angle a problem?
June 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: it is a thermostat, for auto trans cooler. The angle is normal. Just be sure it stays in place when reinstalling. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
neels Comments: Hi
i need to know my bmw e46 325 ci 2003 f/l coolant level sensor is out the eapansion tank is leaking water when sensor is out and it is n knew expansion tank
May 21, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don;t understand the question. The sensor is removed and it is leaking? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Alex Comments: I cannot figure out how this breads pin goes back in to the bracket. It seems as though it's a spring loaded pin plug on the bottom of the expansion tank, and this is the same issue Hugh was having in the thread above
March 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See figure 9 here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/34-WATER-Radiator_Replacement/34-WATER-Radiator_Replacement.htm

If you can't get it back together, you will have to replace the bracket that attaches it to the radiator. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Pf Comments: 2000 323 CI replacing expansion tank and at the bottom lower radiator hose when you lift the tank up a piece of plastic with the spring and a little cylinder fell out and I do not know where it goes back
February 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share a photo of the part and the tank? It might be the thermostat for the ATF cooler. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sh Comments: To those struggling to refit the expansion tank:
I had the same issue....spent hours trying to get the tank to fit onto the rad properly until I applied some lubricant and it went straight in.
January 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mutape Comments: This is very helpful, was gonna pay someone to change my expansion tank - iam now onspired to do it myself.
January 12, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Brain Comments: Hi,
I was flushing the coolant, to get all the fluid out of the expansion tank I was siphoning with tubing - I accidentally broke the red plastic float stick off the styrofoam. Do you think it will cause problems loose inside the expansion tank or is it no big deal if I make sure and keep coolant level proper.
Thanks
December 18, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You should be OK. As long as you get the smaller broken pieces out, so they don't end up in the cooling system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
fredrik Comments: I have been trying this guide to replace my own expansion tank. I bought a new tank and got to figure 5 before i got in trouble. In figure 5 it says to remove a hose on the lower side of the tank but on the original tank there is no hose or fitting. The new tank i bought has this fitting in place so I can't see a way to use it now. Looking on the internet I can't seem to find a tank without the extra fitting. Any idea why my car doesn't have this fitting?
October 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You probably have the wrong part. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Pieter Comments: With all due respect this article especially figure 8 photo and instructions is misleading. Placing the screw driver at location shown and pulling with all your efforts will not dislodge a very stuck expansion tank as my experience.furthermore you run a good chance of breaking the mounting.i rather removed the mounting bracket with expansion tank in place.2 screws need to be removed and shield of undercarriage to gain access to the 2nd screw from below front jacked up.only with bracket including tank out was i able to lift off the expansion tank without breaking anything.the plastic there is fragile.my point is this can not easily be done in your stated 30min.
October 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. I have used the method shown for years without damaging a tank. Most times if removing, the tank is being replaced anyway, so not much of an issue if it is damaged. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
AYC2112 Comments: Thanks for this awesome write up. I think the tip about prying apart the ET from the mounting bracket was a life saver. I couldn't get that off until I inserted my screwdriver deep enough and then it just popped off.
August 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
KJack Comments: ok nvm, i see he noticed the folly. But I have an issue, the expansion tank doesn't seem to want to seat all the way to where the little hook on the expansion tank doesn't wanna hook onto the retainer bracket. I see virtually no difference in size or dimensions of the new res from the old, and with the t-stat removed the old one seats, but the new one doesn't. And i'm not feeling like forcing it to.
August 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if it is sliding in the radiator all the way. if it is not aligned with the mounting slots, it won't drop into place. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
KJack Comments: I was using your site as a reference for my 2004 325i, and on JLH's posted picture from 01/16/2015, my ATF T-stat was removed from the larger opening of the two on the retaining bracket for the expansion tank...so is his photo wrong or was my t-stat wrong from the beginning? Please help asap i need this thing up and running for school.
August 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You mentioned you figured it out, what did you find? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aaron Comments: Just installed my new one. Had a very hard time installing quick-disconnects into lower part of the expansion tank. Now it leaks from that connection. I cannot get it to in any further.
July 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What won't go in? The hose or quick connect?

The quick connect could be misaligned, as well as the hose. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
jall88 Comments: can't get clip to hold expansion tank when re attaching it ... 04 325i
July 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Which clip? Can you share a photo of it? On the top? If so, the tank may not be seated. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jall88 Comments: can't get clip to hold expansion when putting it back on .... 04 325i
July 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Which clip? Can you share a photo of it? On the top? If so, the tank may not be seated. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Hugh Comments: I have removed the expansion tank in a 2001 325 ci and when I did a spring, a cylindrical piece of black plastic, a rubber gasket and a brass pin fell out from somewhere. It was not immediately apparent where it goes in the system. any advice on the order they go in and where would be much appreciated?
July 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share photos of the items? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
David Comments: Yes I have an 03 bmw 325i, I've already replaced the wster pump upper and lower radiator hoses and it was still leaking. Found it was my expansion tank so I just replaced that on Sunday but now it leaks way more then before, as soon I put in coolant it comes straight out. Any ideas what it could be? Looks like it's coming from the bottom of the new tank
July 7, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if you left something out of the tank. Maybe the level sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aulf Comments: I'm driving a 2004 BMW 335i. Recently I've ha to keep filling the coolant every couple weeks. Yesterday it was leaking coolant to the point that it was gushing out. I refilled and it just poured back out. I have a friend saying it's a crack in the expansion tank, and I have a friend sayin it's the water pump. Which one it sound like?
May 27, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hard to say. Your description doesn't lead me to suspect one more than the other. I would pressure test the cooling system, this will help to pinpoint the leak. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JC Comments: It's a 2004 BMW 325XI. If you put a jumper wire in to bypass the sensor, the dash low coolant light will go out, so the wiring should be good from sensor back to dash light. Any other thoughts? One mechanic says there is something in bottom of reservoir tank that moves over sensor when low to activate, but mechanic that put in reservoir tank says there is something in the reservoir tank bracket that moves and activates the sensor and sometimes gets stuck. When I looked at a reservoir tank and moved it, there was a float that moves to raise rod at top, but when I held it, and tipped tank, I could hear and feel something move in the bottom also, which makes me think, that piece activates the sensor. I just don't know which was to go or if i should just unhook at connection to sensor and put jumper back in, and check coolant manually on a more routine basis?
May 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you are able to make the light go out by jumping the sensor out, the sensor itself must be stuck. It is located in the bottom of the reservoir, it locks in. You can replace is separate of the tank. See the last step in this article to see how it is removed.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
JC Comments: Is there any type sensor relationship between the tank mount and the reservoir tank that the sensor goes in? Mechanic recently replaced reservoir tank and new sensor, but still getting a low coolant light although coolant level is fine. Now he tells me there is something in the tank mount that helps activate the sensor and that it needs replaced. I can't see how after looking at diagrams. Other mechanic says some resorvoir/aftermarket tanks don't work well w/ the low coolant sensor.
Thank you
May 12, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What type of vehicle? If the sensor was replaced, it could be a wiring issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mreed2002 Comments: Sorry. It's a an E46 325i with a manual transmission.
March 17, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you figure out if a plug is available. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mreed2002 Comments: In the process of draining the coolant to do a flush, the head of the e-tank bleeder screw broke off. I was able to unscrew the threaded portion out most the way, but at one point it stopped. There feels like there's a spring in there. How do I get this plug out to replace it??
March 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle are you working on?

You may have to use an extractor to get the plug out, then replace it. If the plug isn't available, you will have to replace the tank. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Peteacrosschina Comments: Hi, I had a coolan leak that caused the engine to run hot for a short while bordering on the start of the red zone on the temp gauge. I diagnosed the fault as an expansion tank fracture so have replaced that and the auto transmission thermostat was broken - noticed when I removed expansion tank. Have refilled the system and running the engine no leaks are evident under the car, the temp gauge moves to the middle and stays there but...no coolant is coming out of the top hose bleeder screw - I'm worried that there is a air block or a warped head/gasket. Any advice?
February 1, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like air is trapped. With the engine off, fill the engine with coolant until it runs out of the bleeder hole. Then install bleeder screw. RUn engine with heat on high. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
LEE Comments: Can a Bad Exp Tank Thermostat prevent coolant from to and from the Heater valve and Core? Automatic Tran 02 325I
January 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Lee Comments: 02 325I Sedan AT: Replaced Water Pump, Exp Tank/Therm/Heat Contr. Valve. I am also not getting heat after burp. only aftermarket part was the ATF/Exp Tank Therm. Question CAN a Bad ATF/Exp Tank Therm prevent coolant circulation to the Heater Core and thus cause no heat? If not I guess my Core could be clogged. BTW Car Temp runs straigt up in all conditions.
January 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it is plugged, you never know. CHeck if hot coolant is getting to the heater core. If not, check the heater control valve. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Val Comments: Thanks for the great guide. I recently replaced the expansion tank had a hairline crack running down the side...however it is still indicating overheating. I checked for any leaks and there were none. The radiator fan is also running. What else should I check?
January 24, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the cooling system leaking or losing coolant? If so, I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty.

If not, you may have a had thermostat.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JLH Comments: I looked at my Exp Tank, the only way to look inside is to take the Cap off and depress the level stick to see the coolant inside the tank. Is this the process to check for checking coolant movement? If so I will take a look. Lastly if my Water pump was out, it would cause my car to overheat correct? Thanks again.
January 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The hole is inside, you will have to have the cap removed. I apologize for not being more clear on that.

If the water pump was faulty, I would think the engine would overheat. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JLH Comments: Per the below - 01325I wiht Exp tank part# 17-11-7-573-781-M58. When you state "Coolant Resevoir" are you meaning "Expansion Tank"? If so I do not see a "Bleeder Hole" in this unit. If not where is the "Coolant Resevoir" Located so I can check? If my waterpump was "Bad" wouldnt my car overheat? Thanks


Comments: 01 325I E46. Replaced Water Pump/Therm/ATFtherm/hoses/ blts/Exp tank/coolant sensor/rad drain plug - Car runs great - Eng Temp at noon. Bleeder screw off Exp Tank squirts steady stream when loosened
January 20, 2015
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not the bleeder screw, Inside the coolant reservoir is bleeder hole depending on model, there should be s steady stream of coolant flowing out of this hole, increasing flow with engine RPM . If there is no flow, you either have air in the system, a faulty water pump or a restriction. - Nick at Pelican Parts
January 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Inside the reservoir (expansion tank) there is a bleeder hole. This is what I am referring to.

if I recall, you are trying to remedy a no heat issue. No heat means no circulation. You either have a faulty water pump, restriction in the system, faulty heater valve or air trapped in the cooling system.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JLH Comments: 01 325I E46. Replaced Water Pump/Therm/ATFtherm/hoses/ blts/Exp tank/coolant sensor/rad drain plug - Car runs great - Eng Temp at noon. Bleeder screw off Exp Tank squirts steady stream when loosened
January 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not the bleeder screw, Inside the coolant reservoir is bleeder hole (depending on model), there should be s steady stream of coolant flowing out of this hole, increasing flow with engine RPM . If there is no flow, you either have air in the system, a faulty water pump or a restriction. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JLH Comments: When I unsrew the bleeder with the car running is gushes out same when I release pressure on the Exp Tank Cap. I did not fully drain the coolant before repair but it still took 1.5gal to refil.

I went out this morning and took the cap off the Exp Tank. The level was not at MAX so I unscrewed the bleeder screw, a little air came out but then the exp tank level went to back up to MAX when the bleeder released a little air So I did not add coolant. Drove to work and still no heat. Car temp at 12oclock/outside temp at 37f. Fan blowing though I never have understood how the bmw controls the temp. So I am stuck. When I get home I am going to feel the up and lo hose going into the heater valve to see if both are hot. I have no idea? DO you think there is air trapped?
January 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle are you working on?

Inside the coolant reservoir is bleeder hole (depending on model), there should be s steady stream of coolant flowing out of this hole, increasing flow with engine RPM . If there is no flow, you either have air in the system, a faulty water pump or a restriction. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JLH Comments: I have replaced: Exp Tank, ATF Therm, Thermostat, Waterpump, Belts, Up/Low Hose, Coolant sensor. I have added 1.5 gal of coolant and believe have bleed correctly as directed - fill with bleed screw out with car in On position and heat on low - until coolant come out. I have ran 2 miles and no heat. Any ideas on why no heat? I open the bleed screw and coolant come out? I checked all wires are connected. Car runs good but no real heat?
January 19, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is there a steady stream of coolant flowing out of the bleeder hole in the reservoir? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JLH Comments: PLEASE DELETE MY LAST 3 POSTS. I AM A COMPLETE IDIOT IN LOOKING AT THIS PRIOR TO SEATING. I WAS TEST SEATING IT INTO THE WRONG HOLE SO TO SPEAK. APOLOGIZE FOR TAKING YOUR TIME AND NOW I STAND IN SHAME LOL. HAVE A GOOD DAY
January 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Don't sweat it, not uncommon for something like to happen. Your follow up will help someone in the future.

Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JLH Comments: JLH - Last Question - in this pic arrows The base of the Exp Tank to the top of the ATF Therm. There are gapsPlay. Can you confirm that this is normal/correct and it will seal up top to bottom when installed? I just expected a tighter fit. I assume that is just how it is. Thank you for prompt responses.
January 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Possible wrong location? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JLH Comments: IMG 3 - Bottom of Exp Tank
January 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Looks like the sealing O-rings are there. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JLH Comments: IMG 2 - BTW My dad loves your site/service and products and wanted to thank you.
January 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: All the sealing O-rings look present.

Thank your Dad, we are glad to have you guys as Pelican members. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JLH Comments: The ATF Therm sits perfectly in the base. Do I push the ATF Therm into the base until I hear a Click? or do I just seat it and put the tank over top to force in? My orig Q was when I was testing & inserting the top protion of the ATF Therm into the base of the Exp Tank, I did not see any Seals like the base going into the retainerwhich is snug. The Top of the ATF Therm going into the bottom of the Exp Tank seems loose. Is this correct? or How it is supposed to be and seal up when attached? See Pics
January 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: All the sealing O-rings look present. I would insert it, be sure the clips are engaged, Listen for audible click. Just reassemble them the same way they were before removing. No special technique needed. When reassemled, pressure test the cooling system before filling it with coolant. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JLH Comments: Q- When installing the ATF Thermostat: I have set the ATF Thermostat in the bottom where it sits but it does not seem to "seal" into the expasion tank like the exp tank to the exp tank retainer. Is this correct?
January 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It shouldn't be loose int he mounting bores. Are the retaining clips in good shape? Are the seals OK? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
pyite Comments: Note that figure 9 is 100% WRONG for cars with a manual transmission. Hopefully people will see the "ATF" acronym but please make it more obvious.
January 2, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You are correct, as it is the thermostat for the ATF (automatic transmission fluid) heat exchanger. I will have the article updated to spell out the intialism ATF. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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