Difficulty Level: 5 Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten
This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
Let me start off by congratulating the BMW engineers for squeezing the E36 six-cylinder engine into an almost impossibly tight spot. It is quite a remarkable packaging job, considering they did it in the early 1990s when all they had were computers with 386 processors and rudimentary 2D CAD programs. Yet their success makes it a big pain for mechanics who work on these cars—it’s a tight squeeze, and you have to remove a lot of stuff to remove the intake manifold.
The best way to learn how to remove the intake manifold is to carefully follow along with these pictures. This task includes one of the steps in the head gasket replacement (Project 17), so a number of other items have already been removed (fan, radiator, belts, etc.). If you’re just pulling the intake manifold, you don’t need to remove these other items.
For this project, I strongly recommend that you get a digital camera and take about a hundred photos of the disassembly process. If you have any questions as to how it was put together beforehand, you can easily refer back to the photos. As an additional resource, the companion CD-ROM to this book (available at www.101Projects.com) contains approximately 300 more photos of the manifold removal and installation process.
Before you begin, let the car sit for about six hours before working on it. The pressure in the fuel lines should have dissipated somewhat, and the car should be stone cold while you’re working on it. Disconnect the battery (see Project 84), as you will be working very close to the starter, which has live current running to it at all times. You will also be disconnecting fuel lines near this connection and don’t want to risk any sparks. Additionally, remove the gas cap from the gas tank to relieve any pressure that may have built up inside the tank from expanding fumes.
Since installation is simply the reverse of removal, just hook everything back up—but carefully inspect the intake boot for cracks prior to doing so. Consider replacing the intake boot while you’re in there, as it may start to crack and break once you’ve disturbed it. Also, watch out for the lower rear manifold mounting bracket, as it can be very difficult to reattach (see Photo 4).
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The air filter housing. The blue arrow points to the air intake channel that feeds the air filter. Remove the air filter housing and this channel by disconnecting it at the clips (orange arrows).
The throttle body and mass airflow sensor assembly are shown here. The two hoses located below that assembly need to be disconnected (orange arrow). Disconnect the electrical harness to the airflow sensor so you can move the sensor around easier (blue arrow). Disconnect the rubber boot from the sensor and the throttle body by releasing the clamps (yellow arrows). Check this boot carefully, as it often cracks and can cause erratic idling if it does. Disconnect the throttle body from the intake manifold (top two with the red arrows). At this point, you should be able to pull away the throttle body. Also, disconnect the vacuum hose that supplies the brake booster (green arrow), and detach the oil dip stick guide tube and the vent hose at the base of the dip stick.
Be careful of the throttle body cables when you detach the throttle body, as you don’t want to twist or damage them. Also, do not disconnect the hoses that connect to the throttle body from underneath.
Disconnect the two fuel lines that circulate fuel through the injector rail. Carefully disconnect the clamps from the pipes that exit out of the bottom of the manifold (blue arrows). For S52/M52 engines, you may need special BMW tool 16-1-050 to release these fuel lines (purple arrows). There’s also a clamp that holds the two metal lines underneath the manifold. Remove this clamp as well (look down the tunnel under the manifold for access). When reinstalling the manifold, the most frustrating attachment point was the bracket shown by the yellow arrow (remove this bolt after you have disconnected the fuel lines). A single bolt fastens the bottom of the manifold to this bracket, but getting that bolt threaded back into the hole was very difficult, because you can’t see if the manifold is aligned with the bracket (misaligned in the photo). Use a small inspection mirror and an assistant to help you guide the bolt back into its proper place in the manifold. There’s a similar bolt and bracket combination toward the front of the car.
This photo shows a close-up of the fuel injector plugs after the harness has been removed. The valve cover breather hose (yellow arrows) must be disconnected. The rearmost intake manifold nuts (inset) can be difficult to get to, so I recommend using swivel sockets for this task (see Photo 1 of Project 49).
To remove the intake manifold, you need to remove the engine wire harness first and slide it out of the way. Start by unscrewing the main plugs (green arrows, lower right). Then, loosen the main wire junction box (blue arrow) by lifting up the rain tray under the wipers and removing the two small screws contained within (red arrow, upper right). Let the harness hang loose—you will need to push it out of the way when you lift out the manifold. Even more annoying than removing the wire harness, you need to disconnect a hosethat is located underneath the manifold, inside the tunnel below the plastic manifold runners (yellow arrow). Reach in and disconnect the plastic clip on the hose. It was a tight squeeze for my hand, so you may need to ask someone with small hands for help. The purple arrow shows the fuel injector wire harness pushed off to the side.
With everything disconnected, the manifold should lift up out of the engine compartment but not without a fight. The manifold is tightly squeezed in between the cylinder head and the firewall (near the wipers). You will have to wrestle with it a bit to get it off the studs that attach it to the cylinder head. Double- and triple-check your connections to make sure you didn’t forget to disconnect a hose or line.
While you have the intake manifold apart, you should replace a few important seals. The first is the throttle body seal, shown on the right. It seals the throttle body housing to the intake manifold. A leak in this gasket can cause poor running and an erratic idle. On the left, one of the manifold-to-head gaskets is shown. These gaskets can also cause erratic engine performance if there are leaks around them. If the seal is breached, it will create a vacuum leak, and the engine may suck in additional air on the intake stroke, altering the air/fuel mixture ratio for that particular cylinder.
Comments: I am experiencing sort of dusty air through the vents, a/c works. I usually open the windows otherwise I get choked with the dusty air from the vents. I cleaned the vents a week ago at the shop where they blew the soapy water in to the vents before the cabin filter and after the cabin filter . i also changed the cabin filter. This makes me del sick. This is on BMW 1998 convertible 328i
March 28, 2014
Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the cabin filter was not in place and dirt filled the heater box. You will have to either wait until the dirt works through, or remove the heater box, disassemble, and clean it. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: i have 99 328i e46 and i found that i have a air leak under the right corner of the intake manifold standing in front of car i found it by putting smoke through the vacumm line that goes to the secondary air pump valve. i was wondering what it could be and the leak is coming from behind the electric valve switch #5 http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=11_2203&hg=11&fg=45 and also if that can affect performance?
February 20, 2014
Followup from the Pelican Staff: The solenoid you are referring to will leak if under pressure from a smoke machine. I would consider this normal. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: help, I have a 99 328i, i replaced the intake manifold gaskets. its back in and i can't get the hose from the master cylinder to go into the intake. Is there a trick? Without taking the whole thing apart.Not much room for my hands under there.
January 18, 2014
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try using some dish soap to lubricate the hose. That usually works for me. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Thanks for the answer Nick.
October 31, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Alsome I have one of this in my shop I thought I had every thing but its as if something in the back bottom is holding it what a night made
October 17, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Look for a large nut at the bottom of the throttle body.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
husam e34 m5
Comments: hi the problem i have is when i switch on the lights fog lights , in the bottom of the front bumper and also when i move the scroll up the scroll for the degree of the light of the dash board and the interior tablo lights means full lights for the dash board , after that coolant temp appears on the screen of the dashboard ????? i think its an electric problem but no harm to ask u right?
October 16, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: This sure is a weird one. There could be a short in the cluster on the stalk that controls the driver information.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Hi. I have a 1998 E36 328i convertible. My mechanic may have to remove the intake manifold to address a couple of issues. How long approx. should it take a competent mechanic to remove and replace the intake manifold on my car? One hour? Two hours? Five hours? I see stories of guys removing their manifold in 1 hour. Then I see other stories where people are charged by a shop $600.00 to $1,000.00 in labor just to R & R. What's the norm?
P.S. It would be nice to include timeframes for jobs in all of your tech articles.
October 5, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Book time to replace the intake manifold gasket is 3 hours. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: found the sensor,oil level sensor under oil pan,had to remove cover plate to remove plug.plug has number 1 2 and 3 on it,can you perhaps tell me which wire goes to which number.as i said i have a red/white,a yellow and green wire,thanks
September 28, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Pin 1 is the 12 v supply from fuse 30, pin 2 is the ground, and pin 3 is the signal wire from the DME.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: i have 3 wires red/white ,yellow and green broken off in same loom as crankshaft sensor and pcv sensor.where did these wire break off,looks like a sensor connection,but i cant find any sensors with missing wires.car is 2004 3 series touring
September 27, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I cannot tell any better than you. Are they for a crankcase heater? I would go to the area of the loom and look for the other ends of the wires. If you cannot find them. Try assembling everything and starting the vehicle. If they are for the engine management system, a fault code will be set directing you to the issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts
husam e34 m5
Comments: whats the coolant temp means and how to solve this problem plz ,i think i have something wrong with the wires in front top of the engine ...
September 9, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: What kind of problem are you having, more info would be helpful. - Nick at Pelican Parts
husam e34 m5
Comments: thanks for the info , greaaaat website
September 9, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I have a 99 323 ic with a 2.5, I swapped with a lower mileage 2.5 l out of a 95 328. The crank positioning sensor on the 323 was in the rear of the block under the starter. The swap engine has it on the harmonic balancer. Do anyone have the wiring color code identifications for both model vehicles and is the 99 323 computer able to read the 95 crank ps, and what about the intake cps, im six wires away from driving my beamer.
September 5, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would suggest getting a repair manual with the wiring diagrams. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right repair manual
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Ok great idea,, but I want to order the wiring diagram do I can do the repair
August 29, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs and wiring diagrams, as I mentioned before.
Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right manual. if we do no thave one, the only other option would be a service subscription with the manufacturer.- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: i have x 5 2011 3.5 the main wiring harness got burned from the fuse box i just want to get the full digram for connection of the cables
August 29, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would suggest getting a repair manual with the wiring diagrams. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right repair manual. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: hi wayne,i have just renewed my starter on my bmw e36 ,have put everything back together .can you tell me ,i have 8wg power cables connected on the top of my spark plug coils ,but can not remember where the main cable connects to do you have any diagrams please
August 26, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: COuld you share a photo of what you are describing? If it is the ground wires, they sould be attached to the main ignition harness. I opened a furom thread for this discussion. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I have a 2002 530i E39...Like Ed Above I cannot find the mystery bolt or nut that holds the intake manifold on. I have all of the 10mm nuts off. It lifts up about an inch but that's it... Is there a nut or bolt still holding this on or am i going crazy for the last 2 days?? Need help please!!
August 20, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should be a 16mm nut at the bottom of the intake under the throttle motor, it holds a metal bracket that is part of the intake to the engine block.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I have a 2003 bmw 330ci, I removed the old starter from underneath the car. The problem I am having is trying to get the new starter aligned, it will not stay in place for me to even try to start the bolts.
August 11, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check that the dowel pin is now stuck or in your way. When installing, rotate the starter into place until the bolt holes align. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I live in Trinidad and own a 2008 BMW x5 3.0si SUV, the local dealer has been charging me a lot of money for repairs and now they told me that there is a leak from the intake manifold - Vacuum controlled, and require me to pay 18,000TT$ for a part they call the intake manifold vacuum controlled. What I wish to know can I obtain this part from your shop and if so what is the cost. TT$18,000 is around US$2,800.
July 23, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I have a 1995 M3 E36 S50. I am doing this to replace my starter. I am replacing all the hoses since I am there anyway. What a can of worms! I made a diagram to 1 figure out what to order and 2 remember how it goes together. I am attaching my diagram and hope it helps someone else. Cobbled from realoem.com and various photos from internet.
July 23, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Hi, i have a rusty front exaulst mount/clamp ,where can i find a remplacement ? I have a 2003 318ti compact ,thanks
July 23, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Wayne, I hope you can give me your opinion on my issue. 2006 530xi, only when the a/c is on and the car is idling the rpm's fluctuate to the point where the car almost stalls. Mechanic thinks there is a crack in the intake manifold seal and that oil is leaking in. $1,200 fix. Your thoughts???
July 19, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If there is an intake manifold leak, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Help plzz. Just changed my starter, put on the manifold but cant figure out the vacuum lines. Started the car, it loses power, and i have to keep tapping the gas to keep it on. Changed spark plugs, checked for cracks and ICV is clean. It has to be vacuum lines. Plzz anyone know where these lines go?
July 18, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure what vehicle or engine you have. An option is to check the emission diagram under your engine hood. It will give you a rough idea of what components are attached to vacuum lines. Otherwise you just have to route them as before, using the length and shape of the line to determine where it was. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: My bmw 318i 2002 e46.after oil change. vechile smoking and alot of water coming out the exhaust.Help
July 16, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Some water out of the exhaust is normal. Check to see if the engine oil is overfull, then check the engine coolant level. If the engine oil is overfull, the excess oil will cause smoke. If the coolant level is low, this may indicate an internal coolant leak, causing smoke.
It is possible something has failed and the oil change is a coincidence. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: We replaced the head gasket on a 1997 bmw 528i and are in the process of putting everything back together. However, I have 3 sensors that I am unable to find where they go. In your additional photos to this post, you show 2 sensors that are attached to the head next to the water line, we have a single round 4 prong sensor in the middle hole and a terminating bolt in the front hole...did this replace 2 sensors and if so, will the 2 previous connectors, just hang and not be completed? Also, you show a small tube at the end of the fuel rail next to the VANOS system, but we have a female adapter at that spot....where does the other end of that sensor come from? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
June 25, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: If I understand you correctly, your replacement cylinder head deos not have the correct mounting parts for all of the sensors. If there are missing mounting holes leaving your sensors with no place to go, you likely have the wrong cylinder head. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I had to change the clutch on my sons' 2006, 330cic.
Which I did. After putting it all together, It started and idled, but the drive by wire throttle seems to be inoperative.
I am looking for wiring diagrams and advice.
I thank you in advance.
May 16, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Are the hoses indicated by the orange arrow in Figure 2. supposed to have coolant in them? I have an aftermarket CAI on my car from the PO, and as I disconnect the hoses that looked like the indicated ones, coolant started to pour out...
May 12, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Those hoses do look like coolant hoses. I cannot comment on your specific vehicle without knowing the model, but it looks normal to me. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: any idea where this hose goes? Cant find it in 101 projects book nor in the bentley book
August 12, 2012
Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should be a fitting with two small nipples and one large, if I remember correctly. It connect to one of the small nipples. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: hey wayne, I have a 94 320i, when I am giving it some gas around 800 to 3k sometimes intermittent it feels like its missing. my flugs are ok but here is the thing. I am not sure of my engine...hahaha because the plugs in there and the plugs I got from BMW and from NAPA are different to the ones in now. my question is, if the plug is a little two short and two prong not 4, will this cause issues? I dont want to put the slightly longer plugs in with 4 prongs the ones sugested because I am afraid they might slap. Rob
July 17, 2012
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, you have to use the correct plug in your engine. The electrode and insulator length determine resistance and temp range. Try the correct spark plugs and see how it runs, - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Image #6 does not seem to match my 1998 M3 engine. How do I take off the fuel injector harness? I have taken off the two nuts that hold the fuel injector harness/assembly to the intake manifold, but it does not come off. How do I unplug the fuel injectors?
July 16, 2012
Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are small wire clips at the top of the fuel injectors. I like to use a small pick, working at top of injector electrical connector, and disconnect the wire clips on each side. It can be a pain and sometimes the clip will reconnect when you are lifting harness. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Causes for faint knocking at 70mph in 5th when going up slight grade even with 93 oct Fuel. Lugging at lower rpms will induce strong knock. Seems to have started after vanos rebuild. Vanos is now quiet and engine responds normally at all ranges, mileage is normal. One annoyance is engine revs to 2-3k at cold start. Knock sensors are original. 1995 325i, 155000 mi. Thanks
March 15, 2012
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check for fault codes, then inspect the fuel system and see if the engine is running lean. If everything checks out there, you could have a carboning problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Hi Wayne. After replacing my f shape cooling pipe, i found that the nipple at the front of the engine behind the vanos that i connect too has some rot holes in it.It appears to be steel and i want to know if this nipple is replaceable, or do i pratley steel repair the hole instead?
March 5, 2012
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe that nipple is pressed in and not serviceable. A machien shop may be able to replace it for if you cannot repair it yourself. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Wayne, 2 projects I'm contemplating - 1 replace all the coolant hoses, and 2 replace the rubber fuel lines while I'm in there. Any hints as far as tricks to these? The manifold removal looks like something I only want to do once! Thanks for all your great work here for the DIYer.
'97 BMW 328i, standard with 174k miles
January 21, 2012
Followup from the Pelican Staff: The best advice I can give is to read the procedure before beginning and be sure toy have all the parts you need on hand once you start the repair. Inspect any plastic lines and see if they feel brittle, sometimes something will break just touching it, leaving with you unable to complete the repair while you wait for parts. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I had a friend witch is a mechanic tear apart my 325i L6 engine to replace the starter. He did put the starter back on but has not been back to finish the job. I have been thankful for this being available to thise in need. And right now I am one of them due to not having all the answers I need to finish. I did put the engine back together but I a problem. When I start the engine it is ok, but when I give it gas, it goes up and down on its own. Then it will just stop on its owm and now I am not sure what it is that is causing this. I was told to check all my vacuum lines which I have and I can not see any thing. Also, is the torque specs for the intake manifold 20.7 ft lbs, and what is the tightening order for the intake manifold nuts. Also, you show great pictures of a lot of parts and thier location but a few I have noticed, like I know that the breather hose goes to the valve cover, but where does the other end connect to. And the canisters on the driver front wheel side, the one has two vacuum hoses connected to it on the top and there is one on the bottom that is not hooked up to anything. I even have two coolant lines that just have bolts in them and clamped. I have seen them hooked up to what looks like a coolant sensor. I did look to see if I had a spot for what I have seen, but I do not. All in all, this site has been very helpful and I hope that my questions will bring you to show pictures on all the hose hookups. Thank you and keep up the grat job you have done so far.
July 30, 2011
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light ON? There may be fault codes that will point you to the cause of the poor running problem. The breather hose connects to the intake manifold, (educated guess not knowing what year your vehicle is).- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I am looking for the torque specs for tightening the intake manifold and is there a sequence??
July 26, 2011
Followup from the Pelican Staff: M6 bolts 10 Nm
M7 bolts 15 NM
M8 bolts 22 Nm
Start in the center of the inake manifold and work your way out in a criss-cross pattern.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: does anyone have a better photo for the location of the lower bolt to remove the intake manifold, I have been trying to find that damn thing for 3 days. I have the Haynes manual but the picture is too tight for me to figure out where the bolt is, and I think that photo is from the underside of the car.
July 19, 2011
Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you feel around under the intake manifold, you will find a bracket with a fastener. You will have to remove the fastener. I can be more specific if I knew the year of your vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: at 248,680 miles I blew one of the hose connectors for the heater core. Ordered the flange, just over 10 bucks from Pelican. Was dreading the intake removal, but in all honesty it only took just over an hour the first time. After reassembly, I was missing the rear fuel line clamp, so in fear that it dropped into the intake I took it all apart again, this time in about 40 mins. The rear intake nut was hard to get to at first but then I found that if I spread the wires connectors just wide enough a straight shot with a long extension and once it's loosened my hand could reach it if i squeezed my eyes shut really tight. Heads up though, if you replace your flange the screw that goes down to the heater core may come out along with the nut that holds the flange on, be sure you put that screw back into the heater core first then the flange then the nut, as the flange is plastic and it's easy to overtighten if you put the nut and screw together on the flange and then try to tighten down to the heater core, if that's confusing you'll see what I mean if you have to replace one. Also just as important and lastly, make sure to order the 3 .50 cent rubber orings that go along with it. I want to make a Youtube video of this swap so bad. btw i found my fuel line clamp under the car when I moved it. The hardest part of this job is actually bleeding the coolant system. Next week I'm replacing the water pump simply because it's never been done on this vehicle. Now on to 300,000 miles!
February 3, 2011
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tips here, let us know if you do create that video - post the link here in the forums! thx - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: What is BMW tool 16-1-050? Do i really need this to remove the fuel lines figure 4, purple arrows? Search on Pelican with no result. My is 96 328i.
November 2, 2010
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm actually not sure - that was a reference that was printed in the factory documentation. The tool is available from Pelican via special order (we would get it direct from BMW). - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: I understand I have to remove the intake manifold to replace my knock sensors. I read the code from my check engine light and it was 1286, which is telling me my knock sensors are bad. There is no DIY for an E36 pre 95 and I drive a 93 318i how major of a job would it be to replace the knock sensors and will it be different from the DIY post from someone who drove a 95 M3?
August 11, 2010
Followup from the Pelican Staff: See the article on the replacement of the head gasket. The knock sensors are shown on there. For the four-cylinder cars, I believe the procedure is similar - it's indeed a pain to reach them. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: You got me interested, You said not to disconnect the hoses beneath the Throttle body why is that?
May 25, 2010
Followup from the Pelican Staff: They are full of coolant, and you don't need to disconnect them unless you're taking the throttle body out of the car. The throttle body is connected with the cruise control and throttle cable too, and disconnecting those are a pain as well. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: There are tons of DIY's for 3 and 5 series. Step up to the plate and take a swing at a 7 series, e65 or e66.
May 4, 2010
Followup from the Pelican Staff: We're working on it soon! - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: Wayne: You have some great photos of the E36 intake manifold removal project. I have the alternator off of a 1996 328is and can see that I can also get to the vanos oil line pretty easily now and also have to replace the cam position sensor. I think I can get to the CPS connector without taking the intake manifold off but a photo of where the connector is and what it looks like with the manifold off would be very helpful in guiding my hands. Does it appear in any of the bonus photos?
January 23, 2010
Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can see the coolant temperature sensor here: http://www.101projects.com/BMW/Projects/012/images/DSC05478.JPG it is below the second intake manifold port. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Wayne, do you have any directions or information on replacing the intake manifold non-return valve cyclone valve? I have a 97 528i and a 2003 325cic. Thank you, Dave
Comments: Just done a cooling system overhaul on my E36,which intailed removing inlet manifold,sence reassemble I have rough idle,hard to start,once driving its ok.Do I need to bleed the fuel system.
November 24, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fuel system is self-bleeding, you do not have to bleed it. I would check for vacuum leaks, a disconnected vaccum hose or cracked or damaged line. It's also a good ide to check the vehicle for fault codes. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: I had to replace my 'F' shaped heater hose $83 mind you and I had to remove the intake manifold. After replacing everything, the vehicle runs very rough for a few seconds then shoots up to about 4k RPM. What could be causing that? I had to remove a hose from the throttle body because it is on the 'F' shaped heater hose.
October 8, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check all the hoses to make sure they are attached securely. Check the system for vacuum leaks, as what you are describing is a classic symptom of a big vacuum leak. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: I was really struggling with moving the wire harness out of the way until I realized you need to remove the "rain tray" that the black junction box was screwed into. Remove 2 screws on each side, and it basically just lifts out after a little gentle persuasion. Then you get much better access to the back of the manifold, especially that last nut. A swivel socket and a simple 6" extension did the trick to get that nut out.
Now, I need to figure out how to disconnect the fuel lines using that special tool. It appears that the fuel line from the injector rail disconnects at the back of the manifold using those quick connectors. It's hard to see back there, so any advise is welcome.
Comments: One other comment be careful when removing the manifold because it's easy to break the skinny vacume lines especially the ridgid one the runs from the fuel pressure regulator the soft part on the end where it connects to the intake manifold gets brittle and sometimes breaks when you try to pull it off. I fixed mine by slidding 3/16 flexible vacume line over the ridgid line about two inches down, after I coated the id lightly with sealant goop then I wrapped about three tiny zip ties around it. Before I hooked it back up, I tested it with a hand held vacume pump to make sure it pulled vacume.
August 21, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. Working with older plastic parts you have to be delicate. Heat and oil contamination cause them to become brittle, just as you noted.- Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Hey Wayne,
I just switched my manifold to an OBD1 model and it's the best thing I ever did for my 97 328i, it really zooms past 3000 rpms now.
When removing the manifold I would recommend replacing all the vacuum lines you can especially if the car is over ten years old. Just buy a few feet of 3/16 bulk line and replace it one section at a time so you don't get disorientated. I also used dabs of different colored paints to color code the electrical connectors because tape gets smeared and dirty.
August 21, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: Wayne, I have every tool imaginable including swivel sockets and I cannot get a socket on it. I have 92 e36 birth year of e36 and I am telling you I have tried everything to get to it except for pulling the engine. I have owned 1986 320i, 2000 M5, 92 325i, and 2001 740il and I have always relied on my mechanical ability on all these cars. through the years and have never had a problem like this. I must admit this is a first for me seeing poor engineering on a German car. Ooops, I take that back. Try replacing the Blower fan motor in the e36....totally sucks!
Was there a change in the position of the motor in later e36 models? Any other ideas????
August 11, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Send me some pictures, email@example.com and I'll take a look. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: I need to replace Idle Control Valve which is located under intake manifold but I have run into a problem. The last or first of the seven bolts which is located up next to the firewall. I cannot get a socket on the bolt. Any ideas tips or tricks to get to it? I also want to replace all the hoses under the intake manifold while I am in there as well as power wash. Love Pelican Parts articles and support, Thanks
August 10, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: All of the bolts are indeed accessible - if you have the right tools. I think that you might need a 1/4" set of swivel sockets to reach in there. In the first section of my book, I review the "essentials" which I think everyone should have in their toolbox. The swivels are in there, just for jobs like these. Hope this helps... - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: where can i connect my breather hose and the small hose that coming from the cylinder head? somehow its been disconnected and i had no clue where should i put them back...thanks for the help.
August 5, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: You'll have to post a picture for me to be able to adequately help you. Thx. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: Can the camshaft position sensor on the 318ti be removed more easily than the 6 cylinder without dis-assembly of the intake?
June 19, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the cam position sensor is relatively easy to access on the front of the 318 engine. I think the plug for it might be hidden underneath the manifold though. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Comments: Figure 6 shows the hose that is located underneath the manifold indicated by yellow arrow. There is another rubber hose underneath the manifold as well as another sensor. Can you tell me what they are for? Thanks
April 25, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you look at the next photo (#7), you can see hoses running underneath there. Two small coolant hoses connect to the throttle body. The fuel lines run underneath there too. There's also a breather hose with a check valve on it that runs under there too.