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Home > Tech Info Center > The 911 Series > 911 Q&A > Page #4

Pelican Parts: 911 Questions & Answers
asked by our readers
Page #4

     How do I remove the door panels on my 911?

    There may be some minor differences in other year models, but this is how I removed the door panels on my 1983 911SC:

1. Remove door lock button and window sill. The sill is held by two screws, one on each end. The rear screw is under a small plastic plug.

2. Remove the rotary unlocking knob. Pry the cover off the center of the knob and remove the phillips screw.

3. Disconnect the main door latch. This little linkage is under the door pull handle, and snaps into a small plastic coupling.

4. Gently pry the window switch from the door panel (stiff putty knife works well—be careful not to bend the little metal bezel in the panel that the switch snaps into). Disconnect the wires, after noting which wire connects to which terminal.

5. Remove radio speaker grills.

6. Remove door pockets. There are three machine screws along the bottom edge of each pocket, one sheet-metal screw on each end, and one sheet-metal screw in the center under the pocket lid. Also remove the small plastic door-pocket bracket near the front of the door.

7. Remove the door pull handle. These are held by four allen-head screws, two at the top and two inside holes near the bottom of the handle.

8. Make sure any remaining screws/bolts holding the panel are removed. Then carefully pry the plastic retaining clips loose. Again, a stiff putty knife or scraper works well.

9. This is a good opportunity to inspect the inside of the door to make sure the drain holes are clear, and that there is no rust. Also a good time to lubricate all of the mechanical linkages in the door.

There is a much more detailed description of this procedure by Allen Caldwell in Volume IX of Up-Fixin, page 300.

Bob Tindel
btindel@gte.net


    My window regulators don't work anymore.  Is there an easy way to fix them?

     Recently, while installing new speakers in the doors of my 1983 911SC, I found a loose part in the bottom of the door. I took it to my favorite wrench, who identified it as part of the window regulator. Some months earlier, I had heard a popping noise in that door, but the window continued to work fine. Window regulators sell for $200 and upward, but they often can be repaired economically. This procedure describes repair of an electric window regulator, but manual regulators are similar.

     The first step in repairing or replacing the window regulator is to remove the door panel. That is covered in a separate item on this site.

After the door panel is removed:

1. Lower the window slightly more than halfway, and tape it in position.

2. Remove the two allen-head screws holding the rear end of the regulator, and the four allen-head screws holding the other end, where the motor and gear mechanism is located.

3. Detach the two wires from the motor, noting which is connected to which terminal, and how the wiring is routed through the motor bracket.

4. Manipulate the entire regulator/motor mechanism to remove the white plastic rollers from the tracks attached to the bottom of the window. (It may be necessary to move the window up or down to do this.)

5. Unbolt the motor from the regulator by removing three 10mm cap screws, and remove it from the door.

6. Remove the regulator from the door. This may take a little fidgeting, as it is a tight fit, but it will come out without forcing.

7. The regulator and motor can now be inspected and tested. In my case, the loose part was the anchor stud for the regulator spring. It is merely swaged into place, and it can be reattached easily by peening.

8. When the regulator is reassembled with the spring properly tensioned, it will be roughly L-shaped (impossible to put back inside the door without removing the window channel). Pull the spring-loaded arm down until it is aligned with the rest of the mechanism, and tie it in that position with a cable tie. Test fit the motor to ensure that it aligns with the mounting bolt holes and the regulator gear teeth.

9. The regulator can now be inserted into the door (without removing the window channel or glass).

10. Bolt the motor onto the regulator. After ensuring that the gears mesh, cut the cable tie.

11. Reinsert the rollers into the window track.

12. Reinstall the allen-head screws and reattach the motor wiring.

13. Test operation and reinstall the door panel.

Bob Tindel
83SC Guards Red

btindel@gte.net


    My wipers on the right side are really irritating me.   Is there a way to easily reverse them around so that they park on the right side?

     "While you are in there" doing something in the luggage compartment that involves removing the fresh air intake duct/hoses/fan/stuff, it’s a good time to change the wiper park position from the left to the right, if that strikes your fancy (it gives you a clearer view of the front fenders, kinda reminds me of a big pair of ...cruise missiles...see how I cleaned up my politically incorrect thoughts). Some 911s came from the factory with wipers parked on the right.

     To start with, remove the fiberboard cover inside the boot that covers the front of the dash. Next remove the fresh air intake grille in front of the windshield. This provides access to the Phillips-head screws that retain the plastic fresh air duct. Remove them, along with the one small screw that locates the plastic duct to the metal floor of the boot. Then disconnect the paper hoses from the duct. Push the hoses gently aside. It is not necessary to disconnect the linkage control wires. Rock the plastic duct back and forth to break the gasket seal, and swing it aside.

     When you have all of the "stuff" removed or pushed aside, you can see the wiper motor. Remove the nut from the end of the wiper motor shaft, and gently pry off the short section of the wiper linkage. Wet the windshield to prevent scratching, rotate the linkage 180 degrees (the wipers will move to the passenger’s side of the windshield), and reattach. Actuate the wipers to test that they park where you want. Adjust as necessary, retest, and tighten the nut. Be careful not to overtighten—you can damage the motor. Reinstall all the stuff. Be careful to reattach the drain hose at the bottom of the plastic duct.

     To complete the wiper park position change, modify the wiper arms.Remove the "bent" arm, place its U-shaped end in a vice, and bend it to the corresponding opposite angle. It takes a little effort, but the wiper arms are suprisingly malleable. Then just transpose the left and right arms.

Bob Tindel
btindel@gte.net


    My 911 won't start after sitting when it's warm.   What could be the problem?

    When I first got my SC, it was very difficult to restart after it sat for 30 minutes or so. Turned out it was the fuel accumulator, which holds system pressure after the engine has been started. You can check this out with a CIS pressure gauge.

     This problem can also be caused by a defective fuel pump check valve.Even if you have the pump with the integral check valve, and it is defective, you don’t have to replace the whole pump—just add a separate check valve in front of the defective one. The separate check valve is a Porsche part. For the 80-83, the part number is 893 906 093 (M12x1.5--M12x1.5). For the 84-89, it is 944 608 951 00) M10x1.0--M12x1.5). About $15 from Stoddard, 800-342-1414, or your local dealer.

Bob Tindel
btindel@gte.net


    My fuel injection on my CIS motor is not working properly, and I've replaced almost everything.  What's wrong?

     My 1977 911 when tuned up would last about 1 hour then start to miss etc. It was also good for the first 5 minutes while still cold. It also was sluggish up to 3k then it would take off. We tried every thing, changed the fuel distributor, new ignition, new wires all over a couple of years and each change made it somewhat better but not perfect. After a replacement it would be better for a while then it would slowly degrade. Give it another tuneup and it would be good from one hour to a couple of days. It would settle into a pattern for the next few months.

     Then I was thinking one day, why does it take off after 3k revs. So I sucked on the distributor(electrical) vacume hose and it would move the advance then snap back. Ah Ha! I replaced all the vacume hoses for $1.08 and the car is a dreeam. The old vacume hoses had minute hairline cracks that I guess when the engine heated up let air in. They had lost their elasticity. So hard to find but so simple to fix. The car has 158k miles on it, has a bit of a tick due to a worn rod guide but it runs just fine now. The parts replaced probably needed to be replaced, but it was very frustrating( 2,000$’s). I also had a good mechanic. a racer, and an old porsche trained fellow. When I showed him what I had done all he could say was, "you are not making me look very good". I also was on the Porsche message list and a couple of fellows had some good ideas about tuning etc. but they did not hit this one. They did say I should learnup on how the CIS system should work and that I should not spend money fixing until I knew what the problem was. Nice talk but sometimes hard to do.

cheers........Maynard Savery, Langley, BC Canada....msavery@sfu.ca


     How do I replace the bushings on my adjustable spring plates?

     I’m in the process of rebushing the whole suspension on my 78 SC and I thought I woiuld pass along my experiences on removing the rubber bushings from the OEM adjustable spring plates.

     I remember that the this was asked some years ago in Porschephiles and the procedure recomended was to torch them out. I thought that was a little drastic. I thought I could use some kind of acid or solvent to soften up the rubber, but a chemist friend of mine said that once the rubber is vulcanized, it is pretty impervious to anything and that it would be dangerous to mess around with toxic stuff.

     Here is what I did. I thought I could start by using an utility knife, but I was not too successful. I then used a Dremel tool with a fiber cutter. That just created a lot of smoke and stunk up my garage!

     I then proceded to get a couple of chisels. By using a chisel, I was able to separate the rubber from the inner metal part by cutting a little at a time and pushing outwards with the chisel to separate the rubber. I used a hammer to convince the chisel to cut :) Once you do the inner part, use the chisel to cut the rubber where it attaches to the arm

     The first bushing took some time, since I had butchered it up with the knife. But I was able to separate the bushings in the second arm from the metal in one piece in about 45 minutes.

     I completed the whole thing by using the chisel to gently scrape any remaining rubber attached to the metal, and then, using a wire brush attached to my drill, removed the remaining rubber bits. I now have shinny surfaces to accept my new bushings.

     I hope this helps someone out there...

Lou Nicotra  len@library.ho.lucent.com

     Hi I'm in the middle of rebuilding my alloy S brake calipers and I can't seem to get the rubber boots into to grove around the pistons. the tolerances are very tight. Is there a trick to it?

     I have rebuilt a lot of calipers over the years, so I know your frustration. Several things to consider:

     I know it sounds trite, but make sure the seal is the proper size for the piston. I have received rebuild kits in which all but one piece fit as intended, and that one piece was for another caliper altogether.

     The boot’s manufacturer undoubtedly has some effect, what with manufacturing tolerances, imperfections, and all that. I have seen rebuild kits from Italy, Mexico, Brazil and Germany; and I’m fairly certain they were not all built with the same care or technology.

     The piston dust seal, which is what you describe, can be a bear to reistall. Some calipers give you precious little room to work around the edges, either with your fingers or a screwdriver. Also, the piece can come with the retaining ring built into the skirt of the rubber boot; or it can come as a separate piece. I prefer the latter, because I think it is easier to get the boot mounted correctly, then put on the clamp, rather than to fight both at once.

     Make sure the channel around the piston is completely clear of debris and rust. Some people I know use a little brake fluid as a lubricant, I do mine dry. A strong bench vise is a godsend for stabilizing the whole process. Work the outer edges, which contact the piston itself, on first. I use a large punch to work the outer edge on; screwdrivers can rip the boot when they slip.

Good luck.

Chip Evaul
78SC (Carrera calipers)
70 2.4S (S calipers)

 

 
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